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SWMBO doesn't know...

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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/16/2010 : 18:46:35

So I was cruising around on Craigslist today and came across an ad for a 2.5 HP dinghy motor. It was $100. I thought that sounded like a pretty good deal, so on the way home I stopped in and took a boo.

It was really clean. Checked the plugs and they were in good shape. Detached them and pulled th estarter - it turned over smooth with a little put-put. sounds like good compression, adn the recoil pulled the starter cord back nicely.

I now own a 1960's vintage Johnson 2.5 HP outboard. Its one from back when they still had steel cowlings, and copper fuel lines. The original decals are still on it, and the paint.

Now I need a dinghy to go with it.

"Iris"
1984 FK/SR #4040
http://frosthaus.blogspot.com/

Take a minute to register your boat with the association!!
http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/owner_questionnaire.htm

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9087 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2010 : 20:31:43

Plugs? 2.5 hp? How many cylinders--eight?

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 06/17/2010 : 04:51:05

Couple months ago I was cruising around Craigslist and came across a 2 HP dinghy motor in the state of Washington for $175, yachti, yachti, yachti. Now we have a circa 80's Johnson motor for our hard shell dinghy.

Mine's only a six cylinder though

Edited by - OJ on 06/17/2010 05:14:22

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 06/17/2010 : 05:24:56

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Stinkpotter
 Plugs? 2.5 hp? How many cylinders--eight?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Its a 2-cylinder. Really cool little engine. Each cylinder is barely bigger than the spark plug.

Edited by - on

jbkayaker
Captain

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USA
299 Posts

Response Posted - 06/17/2010 : 08:32:30

Don't forget that pre-2001 motors don't like ethanol in their fuel systems. In other words expect corroded metal parts and deteriorating rubber parts. You can try using the Sta-Bil anti-ethanol additive to deal with it.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 06/17/2010 : 10:43:53

Good Point JB - most of the time High-test is ethanol-free. I wonder if it will run OK on no-lead, or if it will need lead additive.

Its that old.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 06/17/2010 : 14:57:12

Off topic, we watched a Rumpole video last night. Now we understand SWMBO.

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9087 Posts

Response Posted - 06/17/2010 : 15:10:03

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Prospector
 ...most of the time High-test is ethanol-free...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">That may be above the 49th parallel (and related territories)--not likely down here.

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5416 Posts

Response Posted - 06/17/2010 : 20:19:26

My 1970s British Seagull 40 plus (for my 16 footer) was running rough last year when we stayed on the Naragansett Bay. One rainy weekend, I took the carburetor apart and cleaned it out completely. I found some previously unknown orifices that I had not gotten to before. Now, it's as good as new.

You could be right that ethanol fuel is NG for it, but every so often after a cleaning, it runs like a champ. I guess I'll keep it 'til it dies.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 06/18/2010 : 05:00:51

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Voyager
 My 1970s British Seagull 40 plus (for my 16 footer) was running rough last year when we stayed on the Naragansett Bay. One rainy weekend, I took the carburetor apart and cleaned it out completely. I found some previously unknown orifices that I had not gotten to before. Now, it's as good as new.

You could be right that ethanol fuel is NG for it, but every so often after a cleaning, it runs like a champ. I guess I'll keep it 'til it dies.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Should I be worried about adding lead additive to teh fuel in this one though? I'm not sure of its vintage except that its old to me. The Serial # on it is: 3042 50794.

Edit to add: According to this webpage: http://www.marineengine.com/manuals/evinrude/#e2_5hp its actually a 1962 3Hp engine.

Edited by - Prospector on 06/18/2010 05:04:01

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 06/18/2010 : 05:16:35

Probably a question best directed to Evinrude directly or at least to a good o/b repair shop you trust. However, here's one link you might want to read:

http://www.theoutboardwizard.com/ethanol_fuel_ads.html

In this article skip down to "What type of gas/oil..." second paragraph

http://www.oddjobmotors.com/tt2_soyouhaveanoldoutboard.htm

Edited by - dmpilc on 06/18/2010 05:36:57

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 06/18/2010 : 06:19:41

Thanks David!!

From that site:

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">What type of gas/oil should I use in my old outboard?

Gasoline:
Fact: For an old outboard you do not need to worry that leaded gas is no longer available. Marine fuel sold from the 1930’s through the 1960’s was called “Marine White” and was, in fact, unleaded gas. There are a lot of debates over what octane to use; a quality 87 octane has never given me any problems.

A major issue for the old outboard is the use of ethanol or MTBE as an additive in modern fuels. Essentially alcohol, these additives are really trouble for the rubber parts in the fuel system. If you have any fuel system parts made of black neoprene rubber, (fuel line, carburetor float bowl gasket, needle tip, fuel valve packing, etc..), the alcohol will dissolve them. Problems from a plugged fuel line to fuel dripping everywhere are the result. (I have a friend who lost a beautiful 1959 Chevy Impala when the fuel line failed due to MTBE and dumped gasoline on the engine and starting a fire - fortunately nobody was hurt or killed.) About the only option to remedy the problem of these reformulated fuels is to replace all the rubber components with ones that are able to cope with the new fuels.

If you are interested in knowing more about the % of alcohol of your fuel, I recommend the Briggs & Stratton alcohol test kit p/n 100023, about $5 at your local B&S dealer. When I tested our local Mobil station I found they had 18% ethanol (it is supposed to be no higher than 10%), a lethal brew to my old equipment. Since then I have been forced to upgrade all my rubber components or import my fuel from nearby states that do not have additives. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Looks like normal gas with good 2-stroke oil will do the trck.

Edited by - on

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