Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm finally about ready to pull the trigger on a furler for my boat. I've about decided to go with a Harken 00AL or a Mark IV instead of the CDI. I will rarely lower my mast and the Harkens seem like they might give better sail shape.
Do any of you have a Harken furler? Is one model better than the other for a cruiser? The only difference I can find is the shape of the foils.
Did you install them yourself or have a rigger do it? If you installed yourself, how hard is it to do?
Harken. It was there when I bought it. Maybe because of it's age, it is a little hard to work. Sometimes it doesn't shake out all the way, but then it will if I tack. Doesn't make a difference if I furl loose or tight, or flush the drum out with a waterhose at the dock. Had a line wrap around the outside of the drum last Sunday. The line is old so I'm thinking of replacing that. <font color="red"></font id="red">*
The halyard hoists the genoa head (slide) independently up the forestay/foil, so you set the proper tension with the halyard. I usually set it once at the start of the season and may adjust it slightly for light air. And even when the genoa is furled to about 110% on the wind, you can crank the backstay to harden the luff.
When and if de-rig I will get help from my former skipper or let the yard do it. There are members here who do it routinely.
* Maybe someone here can suggest other maintenance?
I have an older Harken 00 that came with Pearl, but it has a twin slot PVC foil with a stainless mesh core. I don't think that that is available now, but it is great for trailering.
I'd like to be able to remove the sail easily if I'm not going to be at the boat for a few weeks. How hard is it to change sails? Do they feed off and on easily? I've heard some complain the CDI is more difficult to attach and remove the sail.
Sounds like all of the furlers get hardy to operate as they get older.
Nothing to it. The jib attaches to the upper swivel and you have somebody else haul the halyard while you feed the sail; except for feeding instead of hanking, it is just like hoisting any other jib. I can do it myself, but it is faster with two people
edit: I do rinse the foil and wipe the slot with Sailkote at the beginning of the season and hose down the drum every now and then. If the blocks and drum bearings are clean and the line is in good shape and properly routed, there is no reason for the system to be harder to operate as it ages. Pearl's system is at least 10 years old and works great
I have a used Harken Furler I have for sale. Do a search on "Hartville". This could save you about 800 on the cost. I have the same unit on my boat and it is great. Also, I never take mine off the boat. I bought a jib sock from Lee Sail Covers and it works great.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Chris Z</i> <br />Gary,
I have a used Harken Furler I have for sale. Do a search on "Hartville". This could save you about 800 on the cost. I have the same unit on my boat and it is great. Also, I never take mine off the boat. I bought a jib sock from Lee Sail Covers and it works great. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Why are you selling the old unit?
if you buy the used one make sure you get all the partd. the furler luff is made up on sections of aluminum. the sections are jointed with a piece of metal that goes over the forestay. when i bought mine i had a new forestay made with the rigger putting the joiner an the forestay before they nicro pressed the end fittings on.
there are sevral little pieces thst sre $20-30 and just shouldn't be but, you know how that is.
i like the furler. i take mine mast up and down every season and i put a 2x2 about 8 feet long tied with line from the furler up the forestay aluminum. this takes lots of bending pressure off the first furler joint and has worked well.
i agree that you can get a much better sail shapoe with the harken.
dave holtgrave 5722 sk/tr steaming hot on carlyle lake in southern illinois.
I have a 3 year old Harken and LOVE it. When I was looking I was leaning toward a CDI until looking further and realizing that if you reef the head sail the Harken and Shaffer are better and my rigger preferred the Harken. I think he was right and it has operated flawlessly. The CDI seems to be a good unit but less flexible. Regardless, it really boils down to personal preference and how you plan on using it.
Ok, Defender is having the boat show sale this weekend. I'm ready to order but need to know what size clevis pin is used at the bottom of the forestay turnbuckle to hold it to the chain plate. Is it 5/16" or 3/8"?
If it's 5/16" would it hurt to drill out the hole 1/16" so I can use a 3/8" clevis pin. The smallest toggle assembly Harken makes for the Mark IV is 3/8"
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.