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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I now know why the bow eye on my previous 1981 C25 would pull forward several fractions of an inch when retrieving the boat up a steep ramp - the back side of the bow eye was bolted against the hull liner. While preparing to install a bow eye on the current 1989 C25, I discovered about a 1/4" gap between the liner and the hull. Hence, when pulling the boat onto the trailer - the liner gives/flexes - allowing the bow eye to move forward, making my eyes as big as saucers and beaking loose any watertight sealant that had been applied around the threads.
I'm thinking about cutting out a small portion of the liner and installing the backing block directly against the hull.
There should be a wood backing piece inside the boat that the bow eye bolts through. It is about 6" long and trapazoidal shaped to fit in the "V" formed by the bow. It's available from CD, and needs to be there to support the loads put on the bow eye by pulling the boat out of the water. If that piece of wood gets wet or starts to rot, the bow eye will start to pull through when loaded up, and should be replaced.
I have the Starboard backing block from CD and I fired off an e-mail to Kent at Catalina asking if it would be advisable to cut an access hole in the liner so I can place the block against the hull - also using a "glob" of epoxy. Only challenge with the 89 model is the anchor locker drain hose is directly in front of where I want to cut the liner!
<font face="Times New Roman"><font size="2">Re: "<i>I'm thinking about cutting out a small portion of the liner and installing the backing block directly against the hull.</i>"
You have my permission to cut the paper thin, and by now badly bruised, liner out of the way on order to do a proper repair.
Re: "<i>Only challenge with the 89 model is the anchor locker drain hose is directly in front of where I want to cut the liner!</i>"
Well then, maybe one of them should move out of the way.
Re: "<i>If that piece of wood gets wet or starts to rot, the bow eye will start to pull through when loaded up, and should be replaced.</i>"
And so it might be worth considering whether that backing block should be wooden. I wouldn't worry about teak deteriorating, but if you use your bow eye on more than rare occasions, it might good to avoid any weaker or less rot resistant wood.
And you might also consider installing a stronger bow eye while you're at it. I did.
-- Leon Sisson </font id="size2"></font id="Times New Roman">
Making the backing block out of Starboard is an excellent idea as it eliminates the wood rot problem. If you have the older style bow eye with only one bolt, it should be replaced with the U shaped style that has 2 bolts.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Leon Sisson</i> <br />"<i>Only challenge with the 89 model is the anchor locker drain hose is directly in front of where I want to cut the liner!</i>"
Well then, maybe one of them should move out of the way. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Move it? Heck, I was just gonna slice through that sucker with my Fein HSS blade!
Apparently the bow eye is optional equipment hence the lack of a pre-molded opening in the liner - but for the factory to install the backing block against the liner?
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.