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 Trailer brake questions
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Randall
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123 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/13/2002 :  20:38:20  Show Profile
Hi everyone. I just got back to Atlanta after a frantic round-trip drive home to Texas. It looks like the Army is going to transfer me somewhere very soon (hopefully San Antonio), so I need to be prepared to move my TR/SK within a week. I drove my Mustang a thousand miles home, and came back with my 361-powered Dodge Ram 4X4, so I'm not too worried about moving the boat, I'm worried about stopping it!
I've finished installing Tie-Down disc brakes on the front trailer axle and ran new 3/32" lines to the surge actuator/hitch. I also had new 6-ply tires installed, and I reworked or replaced the bearings.

Two questions:
I only have about 1/4" of clearance between the rims and brake calipers. Is that really enough? The guy at the tire shop thinks so, but it seems AWFULLY close to me.

Second, the instructions for the disc brakes tell you to punch a hole in the master cylinder check valve, and drill rear master cylinder orifice out to 3/32". I'm assuming they are referring to a Tie-Down brand actuator, but I'm using a Fulton 6000# actuator. What do I need to do to make it work properly on my cobbled-up rig?

Oops, I just thought of a couple more questions. I will be running 95% of the time on virtually flat IH-10, and hope to average 65 or so. Do I need to lock the tranny out of overdrive? Can I use cruise control?

Randall



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Billamicasr
Deckhand

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USA
11 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2002 :  00:30:31  Show Profile
I can help with the questions related to the transmission. You didn't mention the year, but with the word overdrive it means you have a A-518 4 speed automatic. Part of this transmission is bulletproof as it was designed from the old Torqueflite A727. The front part of it has matching parts from that old heavy duty trans. Problem is (like all of the OD's) in the section created to make overdrive work, and the loc-up torque converter.
When using cruise or not the important consideration is what is referred to in the industry as "hunting". This is when you feel (or watch a tachometer) the engine accelerate a little (300 to 400 rpm) from the transmission going in and out of loc-up in the torque converter or a greater acceleration (1000 plus rpm) from the transmission up and down shifting from OD (4th) to the next level down (3rd)and back up again. If you experience this "hunting" it is time to release the cruise control (if applied) slow down a little and down shift (push the OD button to off)and cruise at a lower speed. The same can be said if you have the OD off and it still hunts, then it's time to move the shift lever to 2nd and cruise at an even slower speed until the load (hill) is passed, at which point upshift, go into OD or the like. Clear as mud right?
The above is somewhat important as that transmission is $2,000.00 plus to rebuild!
One more for the road. You do have an auxillary transmission cooler installed on that rig right? If you don't know, ask someone who will look and tell you. That's important.
Hope the explanation wasn't to awfully technical. I tend to go overboard (swan dive and all) Have a great trip!!!

Bill Lamica
Cat 22 Capri FK

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Randall
Navigator

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123 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2002 :  07:15:35  Show Profile
Hi Bill,

I think I got the gist of it, whatever a "gist" is. I remember being annoyed on long cruise control trips in my 89 Suburban, listening to the engine repeatedly revv and the tranny shift back and forth when going over small, inconsequential hills. I'm guessing that was the hunting you refer to.

The truck is a '99 quad-cab long wheel base model with towing package, so I'm assuming it has the tranny cooler, but I don't really know for sure.


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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2984 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2002 :  09:25:03  Show Profile
If you haven't found your answer about the master cylinder... call Champion Trailers in La. Number can be found on web site. They are very helpful.

Also, if you haven't charged with fluid yet, and your system is all new...going with the dot 5 (synthetic) fluid is a better way to go for boat trailers. It will not absorb moisture which is what leads to the rust and then wear on the cups and sticking and leaking brakes.

Arlyn C-250 W/B #224

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