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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Breakers or Fuses for Main Wires.

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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/11/2010 : 07:03:52

Bruce has prompted me appropriately enough to get my main fused. Here is my setup and any suggestions are appreciated.

I've got a solar panel, to a controller, to the battery. and about 10 gauge ( I believe ) straight to the panel.

Looks like putting new 10 gauge wire (rated to 35-40 amps) and this Main breaker ( 35 amp) on the fiberglass wall just below the panel.
.
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http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|296553|299262|825429&id=825410

Quick and easy, but tiresome access to the trip reset.

I've just begun looking, so any suggestions are appreciated.

Thank You...( and Thanks Bruce )

Ray in Atlanta, Ga.
"Lee Key" '84 Catalina 25
Standard Rig / Fin Keel

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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2010 : 07:20:56

<< within 1 foot of the battery connection, preferably right next to it >>

SO put the breaker above in the battery compartment?

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redeye
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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2010 : 07:28:19

This looks good ( in 50 amp). OK in the battery compartment?

.
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http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|296553|299262|825429&id=1324225

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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2010 : 07:37:12

That trip/breaker listed above would probably work well on the wall outside the battery compartment ( my battery is under the seat, strbrd )

Also it would work well as a way to "turn off" the battery.

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wmuchmore
1st Mate

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USA
56 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2010 : 07:58:02

I have two batteries. Should each one be protected or would it be OK to have one unit handle both batteries?
Mike Muchmore
1980 TR/FK

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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2010 : 08:18:10

One. You are protecting the wires from either battery that is connected.

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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5371 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2010 : 19:21:19

Ray,
You can connect a short #10 or #8 AWG cable from the positive terminal to the breaker connector. It should be mounted very close to the battery, in the battery compartment.

From the breaker's other connector, you can hook up the main line to the switch panel, the line to the solar charger and any other circuits you may have on board (radio, stereo, other lights, etc).

You can use the breaker as a main cutoff switch if you wish. This way you know when the circuit is cut, all the power is completely dead everywhere on the boat.

If you have an outboard with a starter and an alternator on a single circuit, I would recommend you hook that up through a separate 50 or 60Amp thermal breaker with an inconvenient location. Because thermal breakers can fail in salt air, I would also recommend a 60A fuse in line with the engine. This way, if the breaker failed, you would still be protected in case of a catastrophic short on this circuit.

I suggest the thermal breaker because if the breaker trips due to trouble starting your outboard, it will shortly reset itself and give you another chance to start the engine without manually resetting the breaker.

Since the battery connection from the alternator should never be opened while the engine is running, that's why I recommend that the engine be on a separate breaker from the panel. If the alternator connection is opened while in operation, you will likely burn out the alternator diodes or voltage regulator.

A dual battery situation has several differences. If the 2nd battery is 5 or more feet from the 1st battery, that cable needs protection. In some cases both batteries are permanently connected together. The wire connecting both should have a fuse on both ends close to each battery. Other cases, both batteries are connected to a battery switch: 1, 2, both, off. Again, the cables from each battery to the switch should be protected next to each battery.

With two batteries, there are so many combinations for connecting, fusing, separating the alternator and engine circuits that I'd have to know specifics about your particular circuitry to advise.

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skrenz
Captain

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USA
351 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2010 : 18:51:14

So Bruce, I have my system wired for a single battery. One end of the positive wire attaches to the battery post and the other end attaches to the post on the disconnect switch. The positive for my outboard motor starter is on the post for battery one on the disconnect switch (on if either battery one or both is selected on the disconnect).

If I understand what you are saying, I should have a 50 (or 60 ?) amp breaker close to the battery on the positive lead going to the disconnect switch and second thermal breaker between the post on the disconnect switch and the outboard? What does this second thermal breaker on the line to the engine starter/alternator do for me if it is effectively downstream from the first breaker? Or are you imagining a system where the engine starter/alternator positive goes directly to the battery post?

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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5371 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2010 : 20:15:57

Steve
The latter.
I recommend that you have no way to intentionally disconnect the engine's alternator from the battery while the engine is running. This would require that the engine cable be separate from the switch panel cable.

A big honking fuse or breaker on the engine cable will protect the cable while allowing the starter to pull 50-60A while starting the engine.

You should be able to switch off the feed to the panel, which can do not harm to your lights, instruments, inverters or radios.

Since you have a second battery, you should protect it's connection with a fuse, in case a short should occur on this line.

I suppose I should sketch out a wiring schematic to clear this up.

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redeye
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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 08/13/2010 : 03:56:55

<< starter to pull 50-60A while starting >>

Isn't this where many applications are using a self resetting fuse, and if it keeps popping it could mean your starter is getting old ( or the fuse is )

I saw in the Defender Catalog where the switch/breaker I had selected was a new product.

No wonder no one could recommend it.

I saw a fused link for about 20 bucks in WM. Lots of folks have been using these.

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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5371 Posts

Response Posted - 08/13/2010 : 16:07:43

Ray
I bought a thermal breaker as the main protection, that resets after it cools off. This way I don't have to go digging if it blows.
But, I don't trust it 100%, that's why I also have an in-line fuse in series with it. If the thermal failed in the closed position, then the fuse will blow, protecting the cable and the boat.
A fusible link is essentially the same thing as a fuse, except that when you replace it, you have to rewire the link in the circuit rather than just pop the old fuse out, and plug a new fuse in.

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