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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Rust never sleeps . . .

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5416 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/22/2010 : 09:45:12

This spring, the last thing I did when fitting out is fit the outboard on Passage. Since the marina was still 1/2 empty on May 1, I was concerned that passers-by might help themselves to the Honda, so I went to the local bike shop and got a SS vinyl-coated cable which happened to come with a Kryptonite lock.

It looked pretty solid, and since I could not locate my old ABUS brass lock, decided to lock the outboard to the boat using the setup. Big mistake!

Being behind the transom, I basically forgot about it. Now, the other day, I checked on it and it is literally a pile of rust in the shape of a lock. The cable is fine. Come the end of October, I want to remove the engine to bring it home.

So now what? The lock is still holding firm. I used WD-40, PB Blaster and other rust fighters, but it will not budge. Key still goes in, but will not turn. The stainless steel shank of the lock is still 100% ok, but the lock will not open.

Any suggestions on how to remove it? A friend has a .45 handgun (works in the movies

). I've got a dremel tool (but I don't have all day).

I even found my old ABUS lock.

Help!

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 08/22/2010 : 10:32:53

Bruce, since you have some time before the end of the season I would soak the lock with the Blaster then tap it a few times with a hammer for the vibration then wrap it up in a plastic bag and seal it up. Leave it that way for a few days, The longer the better. Try the key then. If it still won't open try some heat with a torch. Salt water works fast at corroding things.

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 08/22/2010 : 10:44:40

I have a universal key on my boat for cutting the rigging in the event of a disaster.

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9087 Posts

Response Posted - 08/22/2010 : 11:24:04

John's tool is important on a sailboat for the reason he mentions, but a small bolt cutter sufficient for rigging might have enough leverage for a 3/8" steel rod. Most marinas have bigger ones for the variety of things that seize up, especially locks on derelict boats. Might as well try that instead of playing drawn-out games with chemistry--you're not going to save the lock.

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 08/22/2010 : 11:51:14

I agree with using the bolt cutters if you have them and want to speed things up. If you borrow them, Try cutting the cable first. The cable will be easer to cut through than the shank of the lock. We use them at work and always cut the cable or chain, Not the lock. The lock is usually just as hard if not harder steel than the jaws on the bolt cutters. Thats why they are called bolt cutters and not lock cutters. You wouldn't want to ruin a borrowed tool.

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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 08/22/2010 : 17:21:40

Another way to go about this is with a cut-off disk in a grinder. Use an air tool if you are close to the water, and aim the sparks away from the boat.

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 08/22/2010 : 17:32:06

Vinegar might help with the corrosion, but I suspect you'll be cutting it off. An air tool with a cutoff disc as noted, would be the way to go, but the Dremel with cutoff discs will go through it reasonably quickly.

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 08/22/2010 : 18:38:17

Here's how I secure my motor:

http://www.tamperproof.com/pdf/snake_eyes.pdf

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jerlim
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1484 Posts

Response Posted - 08/22/2010 : 20:03:16

A pair of standard vice grips, w/ cutting jaws deep in the throat will cut the cable w/ a few passes...

Edited by - jerlim on 08/22/2010 20:03:37

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5416 Posts

Response Posted - 08/22/2010 : 20:16:03

Guys
Thanks for the suggestions.
The lock is a goner - I doubt it will ever open - even one last time.
I will check with the yard crew to see whether they've had luck using the bolt cutter on hardened locks.
I would like to save the cable - it's thick enough so it would take a while to chew through it with a pair of wire cutters.
Maybe I can use my Dremel tool - I just bought a new set of cut off discs.

Dave - the lock is connected through one of the stern U-bolts. How are they secured to the transom, just a pair of nuts and a backing plate? Maybe I can take that off easily enough?

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9087 Posts

Response Posted - 08/22/2010 : 20:42:52

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Voyager
 Dave - the lock is connected through one of the stern U-bolts. How are they secured to the transom, just a pair of nuts and a backing plate? Maybe I can take that off easily enough?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Inside the quarterberth and the dumpster, you can see stainless plates just like the ones on the outside of the transom--I made them all the same. There's probably a bunch of Life Caulk under the outer plates and around the bolts--that's it. Have fun getting to them in the dumpster--I certainly did. (Secure the hatch open--it's not nice to have it fall while you're sliding on your back down under the fuel locker. I'll let you guess why I say that...)

I sorta figured a sternrail stanchion was a better place to secure the engine--if something happens to the bracket or whatever, the engine won't be able to fall as far.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 08/22/2010 20:45:26

skrenz
Captain

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USA
351 Posts

Response Posted - 08/23/2010 : 14:51:07

In this situation, the only difference between you and a thief is time. There are lots of things that will cut through cable. The problem for the thief is that he hasn't the time and can't be observed. You have neither of these limiting factors.
I agree a disk grinder would do the job if you can get it powered and have one. But most likely you do have a hacksaw. I guarantee that a hacksaw will work anywhere, is cheap, and will cut through the cable. My experience is that by the time you hook up to find some big bolt cutter and maneuver it into place, you would have already been through the cable with your hacksaw. Sometimes easiest is the best solution.

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5416 Posts

Response Posted - 08/23/2010 : 18:49:16

Steve,
Just powering the cutter is risky business - imagine me hanging over the transom with 110 VAC gizmo buzzin' away, then I make contact with the seawater??? OUCH! I can think of better ways to spend my last afternoon on earth.

Dave, looks like I had the good sense to hook it to the STARBOARD U-bolt. I think I should be able to crawl back into the quarterberth and unbolt the parts.

Once I get U-bolt out, in your opinion, should I just fill the holes with gel coat patch, or replace the bolt with screws and wait till I haul her?

I will miss waterskiing tho Scott!

Edited by - on

bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1797 Posts

Response Posted - 08/23/2010 : 19:03:08

I have been using a brass/bronze key lock to secure the outboard -- after four seasons it works fine and no rust! (just need to remember where the key is)

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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2010 : 05:50:32

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Voyager
 Steve,
Just powering the cutter is risky business - imagine me hanging over the transom with 110 VAC gizmo buzzin' away, then I make contact with the seawater??? OUCH! I can think of better ways to spend my last afternoon on earth.

I will miss waterskiing tho Scott!

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Hence the recommend on an air powered grinder. Check at harbour Freight. I think they can be had for as cheap as a pair of bolt cutters and will come in handy for many other jobs. If you don't already have an air compressor, you will also need to get one. On Iris we set up the compressor in the Salon, and run the hose where it is needed. I think this is safe enough, but I know some folks who feel like they need to go even safer than that.

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2010 : 06:32:21

Bruce, don't overcomplicate this. Get bolt cutters and cut your losses. Or, just leave it alone until you pull it for the winter. If you can't get it off, neither can the bad guys.

Edited by - John Russell on 08/24/2010 06:33:29

Unsinkable2
Captain

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USA
273 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2010 : 11:08:28

Use your dremel, and bring a video camera. Dremel sponsors a contest every year showing problems solved with their rotary tool. Enter the contest and you may win enough $ to replace the cable, lock, and even a spare outboard...

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