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water out of lines for winter

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calden
Navigator

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USA
194 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/28/2010 : 13:44:31

Hey all:

I'm going to keep my boat in the water for the winter but want some advice on prepping it for subzero temps. I know to drain the water from the water tank and holding tank and to put in anti-freeze. I assume if I call West Marine they will tell me what to use for that.

But I also want to know how to drain the water that is in the plumbing near the thru-hulls. For the head, of course, that would be intake water that will be between the thru-hull and the head intake pump. And for that matter, the rest of the head intake plumbing ought to be drained or at least have anti-freeze put in, right? I assume I can just pump some through the head to get it into the pump and to the head-to-tank lines.

Then there's the drainage lines for the sink and icebox. I can't drain this, or the head intake, easily because the boat is not coming out of the water. So how do I drain it from the inside? Take the hoses off the thru-hulls and just get the water that way?

thanks,
Carlos

S/V Mazama
1983 FK SR
#3682

Edited by - on

Renzo
Admiral

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USA
621 Posts

Response Posted - 09/28/2010 : 15:21:35

You could disconnect and drain the hoses inside the boat as you suggested or usse a pump and a small tube to suck the water out of the lines. Or you could even use a low pressure compressor to blow the water outand then close the seacock while the compressor is still running.What I used to do when I stored my boat in the water, over the winter, here in Michigan, was to close the seacocks then pour antifreeze in the sinks and Icebox drains until it backed up an inch or more into the sink. Then I would open the seacocks for a second or so til the antifreze started to drain out and then close the seacocks again. If you are "bubbling" your boat the water around the hull should never freeze anyway, but it's better to be safe than sorry. Did that for 5 winters and never had a problem.

Edited by - Renzo on 09/28/2010 15:22:25

calden
Navigator

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USA
194 Posts

Response Posted - 09/28/2010 : 17:29:10

Thanks for the response. My boat is in North Idaho and the winters are probably very similar - maybe not quite as cold as yours. Not bubbling, we don't usually get ice where I am (lake is extremely deep and holds temps.)

Carlos

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5378 Posts

Response Posted - 09/28/2010 : 17:46:18

Ice forms in small places away from the main body of water - even in Idaho. Renzo indeed has the right idea - [this may be considered an alarmist statement but] - easier to prevent a problem now than to find your boat on the bottom of the lake in the spring after the thaw.

Edited by - on

JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 09/29/2010 : 06:18:22

Three new questions about winter:

1. What is recommended for safeguarding a water-cooled outboard that is used periodically in weather with freezing temperatures?

2. How do Alaskans get their 2-stroke outboards going after freezing to -50 degrees?

3. And more relevant to my year-round sailing in the mid-Atlantic region, how do you warm up an outboard with water frozen in the impeller or cooling lines?

I have sailed in winter with temps above freezing after a cold night, but I have not been able to get the water cooling system to work until the whole boat has warmed up later in the day.

So on a cold morning I only run the OB for bursts of 2 seconds at a time to head upwind, or sometimes I just sail out of the slip if the wind is right. I'd like to have an electric block heater for my outboard that I could plug in at the dock.

After sailing in winter and with the engine out of the water, I try to remember to pull the start cord a few times with the kill switch "off" to pump water out of the cooling system before leaving the boat. And before more freezing nights.

What else could I do? Hair dryer? Heating pad? Install a 2W light bulb under the outboard cover?

Edited by - on

Renzo
Admiral

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USA
621 Posts

Response Posted - 09/29/2010 : 18:20:36

Might be easier to winterize your current motor and take it home. Then by a small, lightweight motor (5hp or less, just enough to get you in and out of the dock) that can be transported and taken on and off the boat easily for the few times you are going to use it in the winter.

Eskimos use whale blubber to winterize their out-board motors. They kill a whale and stuff the motor down it's throat.

Of course the EPA frowns on that sort of thing unless you are a card carrying Native American.

OH, and the 2w light bulb under the engine cover....<font size="6"><font color="red">BOOM!!</font id="red"> </font id="size6">

Edited by - Renzo on 09/29/2010 18:25:21

JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 09/29/2010 : 19:27:38

Thanks for the helpful advice.

Now I know why I joined the association...

...to chuckle to myself about silly boat stuff!

Edited by - on

calden
Navigator

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USA
194 Posts

Response Posted - 09/30/2010 : 07:23:51

Bruce:

I'm not discounting prudent planning, and f I had AC power at my slip I would have a bubbler for sure. Short of taking the boat out of the water I'm trying to do what I can to winterproof it. I know there's a chance of icing up, though. Fortunately I'm on the North shore of a bay, so the added sun will help.

We get inconsistent winters here. Fingers crossed this one will not be Arctic.

CarlPr

Edited by - on

captainstuart
Deckhand

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USA
6 Posts

Response Posted - 09/30/2010 : 08:12:39

Just a suggestion
If you are going to keep the boat in the water all winter, condensation inside the cabin will be a big issue. During my 7 years of all year sailing in the Pacific Northwest I found that a small electric cabin heater at its lowest setting could stave off most of the condensation and freezing (but anti-freeze is still a great idea)

Of course West Marine carries one.. :-)

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 09/30/2010 : 13:58:55

Just about any RV antifreeze will do the job, just do not use auto antifreeze.
For the fresh water tank, some owners have reported using a bottle of inexpensive vodka!! No add'l comment from me because we have not used the water tank yet.

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5378 Posts

Response Posted - 09/30/2010 : 14:00:17

Carl,
I'm struggling with this one:
1. Definitely have to remove all water from the lines;
2. Good to disconnect the lines from the through-hull fittings;
3. If there's a way to blow air through the fittings while you cork them on the water side (you'd have to be swimming to do this, so before it gets too cold....), you can clear the water from the through-hulls.
I'm mainly concerned about the thru hulls filling up with ice and cracking while the boat is in the water.

The other concern I'd have is the rudder. I'm not sure what kind you have, but mine is a balanced rudder. I believe it is made of fiberglass covering a foamcore interior. Several members have reported freeze damage to theirs.

The failure mode is when the foamcore gets saturated, then it freezes up. The wet core swells and cracks the fiberglass coating. Some members were able to repair the rudders while others were beyond repair.

Each November, I remove my rudder and store it in my garage after I pull the boat for winter storage. The garage stays warm until about mid-January, by which time, the wet core has dried out. I sail in salt water, so that forestalls early freezing too.

I guess if the water around your boat remains liquid, the water inside your rudder probably will as well.

I'd make sure my insurance is paid up, covers freeze damage and my deductable was minimal.

Edited by - on

calden
Navigator

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USA
194 Posts

Response Posted - 10/01/2010 : 07:49:36

Bruce:

Good suggestions. I called my maintenance guy up there who said they don't bother to clear out the lines to the thru-hulls, that the flexibility of the hose allows for whatever ice might form. I know it sounds goofy, but they maintain hundreds of boats.

However, to appease my own anxious ownership needs, I will find a way to drain the lines. Also, the thru-hulls have a little valve to drain the ball, and I'll open that as well. No way can I get under the boat.

Bringing the rudder in is a good idea, too, and I talked to my insurance guy to make sure that freezing damage is covered. In fact, I asked if having it salvaged should it sink would be covered - not wanting to assume anything - and he is going to look that up. I don't want to assume that the $10k coverage will include any salvage or hauling fees should the boat sink.

By the way, for some very strange reason my laptop (but not my desktop computer) alters my name when typed. It is, in reality, "C-A-R-L-O-S" and not "C-A-R-L-Pr"

Thanks again,
C-A-R-L-O-S

Edited by - calden on 10/01/2010 07:50:29

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