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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Everything worked well today. with the help of a friend. and his Ford F150 Extended Crew Cab, we pulled out my swing keel boat on my fin keel trailer. It went on the trailer very nicely, although I did have to get into the water to crank the winch and organize lines from the winch post to the primary winches. We used a 30' strap to get the trailer deep enough to float the boat on the trailer. I left the keel partially down to help the keel guides do their job. After the trailer was out of the water, I lowered the keel to rest on the keel board. It came down just in front of the second axle. It was just a little bit tongue light, and settled down after I went to the bow for the ride up the ramp. I used 2 tongue jacks on the front, but being tongue light as it was, I expect that 1 jack would have been sufficient. I'll try to take some pics tomorrow and post them. Bottom line, the fin keel trailer handles the swing keel boat quite easily.
DavidP 1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52 PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess" Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN
That's great. You'll want to address that tongue weight though. It should be close to 10% of the load. If it's too light, travel down road can cause severe tail wiggle. Easy enough to do, just move boat forward on trailer. Couple of inches at a time.
Nice work. Not everybody will take the time to think things through and plan like you did. The worst aspect for me is pushy ramp hogs trying pressure me and "help". I always try to do my launch and retrieves on weekdays when there is minimal traffic. And yes, bring a handy friend if you can.
I do have a little bit of wiggle room with the position of the winch stand, maybe an inch or two. I have to be careful, however, as I plan on using the trailer for both fin keel and swing keel C-25's. Maybe I can mark 2 positions, one for each keel type, and adjust the position as needed without getting into too much work. I also noticed yesterday that one of the middle pads was a tad short. I'll adjust that, too.
Pics added: After using pressure washer. We do in water hull cleaning annually. Paint job is 3 years old, except for the rudder and keel, which I painted last summer.Yesterday I scraped and painted the keel and put another coat on the rudder. And started to clean up the waterline. Note bow heavy, only items in v-berth/foredeck are 4 headsails and the anchor/rode, and a small tool box. I guess I'll be moving all that stuff aft.
Light spots are glare reflections from the car glass.
Is the waterline deposit lime? Do you use acid to clean it? Back in the day we at our lake used a product called Zing; haven't had to use anything since VC-17 came along. Do the VC-17 boats at your marina have similar waterline deposits? I think it is very cool that you have a full keel trailer. That means you can do full maintenance on you swing keel on your trailer, that is huge.
I think it is a lime-like deposit. I used CLR diluted with a little bit of water on it yesterday as a test, applied with a 1" paint brush. Didn't work as well as I had hoped. Others have recommended muriatic (spelling?) acid, but that stuff scares me. did Zing work well? I'll have to ask one of the VC-17 users.
I got a second coat of paint on the keel and rudder this morning. Plan ti start on the hull in earnest tomorrow.
I specifically wanted the fin keel trailer because I was hoping to set it up as a fleet trailer and we have at least 1 fin keel C-25 here at our marina, and I wanted it for doing bottom work.
I'm using Interlux Ultra-kote. Got it from Defender for $75 per gallon after seeing a "heads up" on the forum here.
I am going to have to move the winch stand forward a bit. It's a little tongue light with a swing keel boat on it. The keel comes down a few inches aft of the second axle.
David - Do you have any plans for treating the keel? We have some pretty serous rusting, but also can't manage the entire full treatment of blasting/stripping it down to bare metal and doing a proper job from there...
I painted the hull Monday & Tuesday, and splashed her yesterday. Paint can said to allow 16 hours of drying time. They have already started dropping the lake to winter pool level and I was concerned we might run short of water (I won't be able to get back out there for at least a week). All I did with the keel was scrape and wire brush the rust spots and do some light wet sanding, then apply 2 coats of anti-fouling paint - I used Interlux Ultra-Kote. I had to leave the spots under the trailer pads unpainted, the only 2 jack syands available were too tall. Next week I'll upload the after pics I took. I'm going to have to come up with some higher pad settings for the swing keel, as well as move the winch stand forward. She was still a bit tongue light. I'm going to mark the present settings for the fixed keel and mark new ones for the swinger.
Next haul-out I'll have to re-paint the boot stripe, too, and maybe replace the keel cable. So far it still looked good (cable end, connector, etc.) We went out of town this weekend to our vacation home in the mountains near Nashville, okay - big hills for you west coast guys near the Rockies, and left the camera. I'm going back Tuesday with some replacement windows, so you'll have to wait a few more days for the "after" shots.
Edit 10/25/10: Camera still MIA, not sure what happened to it. Questions for Mark Maxwell (Inpulse) - saw the pics on another thread from your bottom job - looks like you have the same trailer I have. I noticed that you lowered/removed each pad to scrape/paint under them but didn't see any jack stands. Were you able to do that because most of the weight is on the keel? Did the boat shift any? Without jack stands I was reluctant to try to lower any of the pads, especially the end ones. Would the other 5 pads have supported the boat sufficiently?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Note bow heavy, only items in v-berth/foredeck are 4 headsails and the anchor/rode, and a small tool box. I guess I'll be moving all that stuff aft. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Swingers generally sit a little bow down with the keel down and nobody in the cockpit. It would take to much weight in the stern to compensate to make it worthwhile.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Edit 10/25/10: Camera still MIA, not sure what happened to it. Questions for Mark Maxwell (Inpulse) - saw the pics on another thread from your bottom job - looks like you have the same trailer I have. I noticed that you lowered/removed each pad to scrape/paint under them but didn't see any jack stands. Were you able to do that because most of the weight is on the keel? Did the boat shift any? Without jack stands I was reluctant to try to lower any of the pads, especially the end ones. Would the other 5 pads have supported the boat sufficiently?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
David- Yes, the weight of the boat sits on the keel (fin keel). With your swing keel I feel there could still be a good deal of weight on the boat even with the keel down against the trailer. Your pads are probably holding more weight too. Another swinger may have more info. The only movement I noticed was when I lowered the front pads, the balance point is the forward end of the keel.
I think the jack stands are needed in your case. You could make some with a couple of 4x4 posts.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.