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Cetol Natural Teak...nice results

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Chakana
1st Mate

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USA
62 Posts

Response Posted - 03/23/2012 : 07:21:53

Thanks guys--one can it will be! My other question was about oiling the wood before applying the Cetol. Should I??

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JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 03/23/2012 : 08:16:04

I'd be reluctant to oil it first. The oil might interfere with the adhesion of the Cetol, and might change the way it cures.

Also, you typically put the oil on to bring out the shine and make everything look nice. Covering that with Cetol would be somewhat counterproductive, since Cetol has coloring agents in it, too.

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 03/23/2012 : 08:52:09

Oil can be used if you want a particular color, but it must dry completely and then proceed with the previously coated wood instructions: clean and scuff with a nylon pad before the first coat of Cetol. I wouldn't bother if you are sanding to bare wood anyway.

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blanik
Navigator

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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 03/23/2012 : 09:18:51

it's been a year i did my companionway woods, i did the panels, companion way sides and hatch handle and panel with Cetol and the companionway step and side panels (above instruments) with Epifanes varnish....

after a year exposed to the sun all the Epifanes woods show signs of wear and will have to be redone this year while all the Cetol ones still look like new... i rest my case ;-)

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Mountaineer62
1st Mate

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USA
33 Posts

Response Posted - 03/26/2012 : 11:49:15

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by BenD
 I'm relatively new here with a 1981 Tall rig Fin Keel. Bought it in August and gradually have been doing work on the boat...in between lots of sailing. Sailing here in Marblehead is fantastic and the summer has been great for sailing. Just got back from a great Columbus Day sail...beautiful weather and 10-15 knots on calm seas. Wonderful.

Just finished putting my second coat of Cetol Natural Teak...after doing extensive research and asking questions of fellow sailors here, I decided on three coats of Cetol followed in the spring by 6-7 coats of varnish. Seems many have had good luck with that combo. Many have commented that using Cetol clear gloss as the topcoat hasn't been great as it can start peeling as soon as 6-9 months after application. Several had used this combo so that's the direction I'm going.

The wood started out looking almost unsalvageable. Grey, dry and drab but at least unvarnished which made the cleanup almost easy. Used a 2 step teak cleaner/brightener process and the results were dramatic. Hope the photo loads...

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Good job! Looks as if you have "sistered in" pieces of teak rails at the top of the hatch rails. I have broken portions of mine at the top and like the job done on your repair. Any tips on how to complete the repair?

Bob

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JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 03/26/2012 : 13:49:37

Bob,
Given the age of this thread, you may not get a reply from Ben. It looks to me like he cut the tops off the bottom portions about as square as he could, then cut the other pieces to match. To me, it appears that they are independently attached (two screws each, through the front rather than the back, as is the case with the lower boards). They are probably sealed on the back with some form of sealant, like LifeCaulk, to help prevent water from getting in, and to further hold them in place.

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sue
Deckhand

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20 Posts

Response Posted - 03/27/2012 : 13:47:55

My husband has been posting a bit to the forum but since painting and refinishing is my task, I thought I would give it a go.

I too have decided to undertake the refinishing of our exterior teak. I did some reading here and on other sites and decided to go with the Cetol Natural finish without a gloss coat. However, I'm not quite to that step yet.

I decided to start by taking the hatchboards first since they are easiest to remove and we have a set of plywood boards the PO made up to put in place.

Here is a photo of their condition.

http://www.gigasloop.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Photo-Oct-13-8-13-45-PM-72.jpg

We brought them home last week and I decided to try cleaning them with the 2 step StarBrite cleaner and then brightener. I was very surprised at how well these seemed to work until I went back to the forum and looked further at some of your photos of how the wood looks when sanded. They seem like new wood rather than chemically stripped wood.

Here are some additional photos during the process and after.

http://www.gigasloop.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_08042.jpg

http://www.gigasloop.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_0813.jpg

So now I am trying to decide whether I should just switch over to sanding for the rest of the wood and use the cleaner and brightener after or continue to use the cleaner and brightener first and then some additional sanding prior to finishing. Am I just not scrubbing enough? I guess there is another option to just sand and forget the chemicals. Any advice?

BTW, as an experiment in blogging (I'm a web developer by trade) I just started a blog on our boating and sailing experiences. www.gigasloop.com

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Joe Diver
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1218 Posts

Response Posted - 03/27/2012 : 14:46:04

Hi Sue and welcome to our little corner of the innernetz.

My experience so far has been that sanding is the #1 way to go. Teak is very soft and easy to work, so my little lack & Decker Mouse with a 120 grit pad cuts down to new wood very quickly. Finished with 220 grit, it produces a very nice surface. This will get out 99% of the bad stuff...however....if you do have some bad, deep staining, the chemical cleaner can be used to lift out the deep set stains and dirt....followed of course by a good sanding.

You want to get down to the good wood underneath all that weathered stuff, and smooth out all those raised fibers. Take a look at my Galley Cabinet thread....

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glivs
Admiral

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USA
836 Posts

Response Posted - 03/27/2012 : 15:45:03

Sue....great start!. You'll be amazed how nice your teak will look when you finish it off with Cetol. Just a few thougths.
(1) Remove the hasp before continuing. Seal the wood beneath it when you finish with the Cetol. (2)It appears there is some grain showing (right panel) (not uncommon after using the two part cleaner/brightner). I suggest a quick sanding to smooth out the surface. This may also help remove some of the remaining grey areas although they are not an issue. (3) Last - its your call, but reconsider using Marine Light instead of Natural before committing yourself. I didn't look to see if you were in the sunbelt or a northerner, but UV protection is important. Given all the work you're going through, consider your options (UV protection in the Cetol vs. UV protection via a cockpit cover vs. little to no protection). The Marine Light is nice but certainly not the same look as, for example tung oil which the Natural is closer to. Your call. And again, great start. I am always amazed at how nicely teak and fiberglass clean up with a little TLC.

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Chakana
1st Mate

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USA
62 Posts

Response Posted - 03/28/2012 : 18:18:56

Hi Sue,
Our wood started out very grey, weathered, and dirty. I used a two part cleaner--Teka. I thought the wood looked awesome! But it caused a 'fuzz' to appear. I read this was damaged wood fibers. So, I got out the sander, started sanding, and found that the wood looked even better! So, I sanded all the pieces, mostly sanding out many of the 'grooves'. I was still glad to have used the cleaner first, I don't think I could have done all that sanding.
So I got the email from Jamestown Dist. that the Cetol was shipped today (it had been on back order). Will be applying it this weekend--can't wait!!! Will post pictures.
From one sailoress to another....
Anna

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sue
Deckhand

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20 Posts

Response Posted - 04/02/2012 : 19:12:13

We got down to the boat yesterday and took off most of the rest of the exterior wood. A few pieces we didn't remove were the eyebrows and the lower portion of the cabin opening. These both required us to remove bung plugs and we did not have the appropriate tools. My husband also did not want to go through the effort of dealing with replacing the bungs. How hard is this?

We also did not remove the cockpit combing box surrounds. These seem fragile and we could not tell that there were any fasteners. It just seemed like some adhesive gluing them in. Any thoughts on removing those or shall I try to deal with these in place?

I did take the other advice and returned the Cetol Natural in favor of the Marine color. I think the UV protection is worth it.

Started sanding today and tomorrow more cleaning.

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Joe Diver
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1218 Posts

Response Posted - 04/02/2012 : 19:38:05

I'm doing everything I can at home...all the easy take off pieces....however, the more difficult stuff with bungs or no easy way to remove, I'll do in place. I plan to have a shop vac on hand and keep the hose right against the sander to reduce (or maybe eliminate) the sanding dust.....and I'll be very, very careful applying the Cetol or Helmsman.

I was worried about doing the bulkhead...but that small kick plate under the dining table (Traditional layout) came out incredibly well! I mean, really beautiful. I'm looking forward to doing the bulkhead...if it turns out like that kick plate, it's going to completely transform my interior.

The only pieces I'm worried about now are the little spindle rails. They're gonna be extremely difficult to sand down. Almost worth the $$$ just to replace them.

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JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 04/03/2012 : 05:57:56

Scott, those things come off pretty easily. I didn't bother trying to sand them, due to the details in the spindles. Before you waste too much time sanding them, try a single coat of Cetol on them and compare them to the rest of the wood.

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Mountaineer62
1st Mate

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USA
33 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2012 : 11:36:15

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Mountaineer62
1st Mate

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USA
33 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2012 : 11:52:40

Note the top 4"-5" of the rails holding the hatch washboards. Pieces have been "sistertes" in rather than replace the entire rails. My new/old boat has the same problem, i.e., the top 4"-5" is broken but noy yet replaced. Has anyone "sistered" in a replacement? Where do you get the replacement rail(s)? All advice appreciated.

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