Association Forum - wheel helm removal/choke lever missing

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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

wheel helm removal/choke lever missing

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trptelf
Navigator

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USA
113 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/25/2010 : 00:29:01

Our new to us 1987 TM WK had been converted to a wheel helm, then converted back to tiller, prior to our purchase. In the conversion to wheel the Evinrude Yachtwin 9.9 controls were moved to the cockpit (nice!) and the choke lever was removed from the outboard body. When the next owner removed the helm, they didn't keep the electric start wired. Apparently it has an electric choke but we aren't sure how to employ. We are not currently using the electric start (wires removed for electric start before our purchase and we don't know how to wire it). Where/how do we employ the choke? Currently we are manually adjusting choke with the cover off due to the manual lever being removed for the electric choke. Thanks for any guidance you can offer. Please forgive my many errors in describing the motor details.

Edited by - on

aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2010 : 04:53:23

I have a shop manual for the Yachtwin 9.9 and will check it for you today.

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aeckhart
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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2010 : 08:54:36

OK, I've checked my service and shop manuals and guess what, all the info is there but it would be difficult to describe the process and parts needed to do the job on this forum and without knowing what parts on the system you currently have on the motor.

Short of taking your motor in to an authoized repair facility, go to iboats.com. They have a forum there for evinrude motors, shop manuals for sale etc.

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2010 : 13:26:05

You can go that route, Buying all the parts needed to convert back to a manual choke but If it were my motor I would just run the wire for the electric start or have someone do it for you if your not mechanical. The end result might cost the same but you would be ahead of the game with the ease of pushing a button.

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sweetcraft
Admiral

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USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2010 : 19:58:28

I agree with keeping the choke and electric start. The outboard I had you pushed the key switch straight in to activate the choke and then turned the key to the right for the starter. The choke was a solenoid with a control rod to the choke. You had the choice to use the choke when starting. No leaning over the stern. Hope you find the parts.

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trptelf
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USA
113 Posts

Response Posted - 10/26/2010 : 06:20:54

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by sweetcraft
 I agree with keeping the choke and electric start. The outboard I had you pushed the key switch straight in to activate the choke and then turned the key to the right for the starter. The choke was a solenoid with a control rod to the choke. You had the choice to use the choke when starting. No leaning over the stern. Hope you find the parts.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Great! It isn't that we don't want to use the electric start and choke, we just aren't sure how to wire it back as it wasn't wired when we purchased the boat. Does the electric choke have a separate wire than the electric start, or is it the same wire?

Thanks everyone. We've rewired the mast, the motor, resealed gudgeons, reset the boweye, etc... and just can't figure out this last thing. The part is available for the manual choke, but we aren't sure what other parts besides the manual choke lever are needed to put it back together. Figuring out the electric start would probably be easier.

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trptelf
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USA
113 Posts

Response Posted - 10/26/2010 : 06:24:13

Edited by - on

GaryB
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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 10/26/2010 : 18:48:47

I'm pretty sure it should have two wires. When I was a teenager we had a 100HP Evinrude with an electric choke. It had a toggle switch mounted under the ignition key. To activate the choke you pulled up on the switch while cranking the motor.

If I remember correctly there were two wires. One for the choke and one for engaging the starter.

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sweetcraft
Admiral

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USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 10/26/2010 : 20:36:02

It seems there would have to be at least four wires: power, start, choke, kill. The power is for start and choke with fourth used for the kill circuit. The magneto makes its on electricity and needs a grounding, kill switch or button to stop. Get that diagram.

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trptelf
Navigator

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USA
113 Posts

Response Posted - 10/30/2010 : 18:02:20

We know now that our electric choke is engaged by pushing in the key. There are 5 wires coming from the back of the key switch. Today we were trying the electric start for the first time. Before doing anything we hooked up the battery and moved the battery selector switch from Off to Battery 1. The engine started turning over as soon as the selector was on Battery 1, even though the key wasn't turned on yet. We reverted to disconnecting the battery and using the pull start for the day. Any ideas on the wiring problem?

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sweetcraft
Admiral

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USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 10/30/2010 : 19:09:53

Yes that diagram would help but you can explore with a ohm meter. Battery disconnected trace wires to origin from switch being ready to label each. Switch could be corroded if exposed to weather which would be discovered right away, shorting terminals. Only two switch terminals with completed circuit with the key off would be the kill circuit. Are the wires in a solid combine or all loose running to the engine from the switch? If the wires are combined, the red could be the positive from the fused panel to the switch. The black could be the negative from the battery. Look for spliced wire or bumps that are wrapped with electrical tape. Who wired the boat is what you are up against so explore and label or pay someone. Welcome to the project side of boating. Good luck,

Edited by - on

trptelf
Navigator

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USA
113 Posts

Response Posted - 11/02/2010 : 09:35:40

I finally found the diagrams some of you eluded to. I am posting the web address here for others needing this information:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ignitionSwitch.html
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/electricStart.html
Thank you everyone!

Edited by - on

trptelf
Navigator

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USA
113 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2010 : 07:40:44

We have learned so much from this sight. I realize now I should have titled this topic Starter/Alternator Wiring. After all of your help we know now that the wires leading to the ignition switch are correct (according to color schemes). We believe they are coming from the correct places on the engine, but aren't sure. But we do now know that the two field wires going to the back of the Guest switch are missing. There are two holes there, but no screws or connectors. How are the field wires supposed to be connected? Could this have anything to do with the fact that our motor starts (without the key being turned on in the ignition) every time we select Battery 1 on the Guest switch? Because putting the switch on 1 starts the motor, we can't leave the switch on. I am assuming we have blown the alternator then by switching the selector to off after the motor has started. Or will the alternator/diodes not blow if the field wires aren't hooked up?

Edited by - trptelf on 11/12/2010 08:03:49

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2010 : 08:58:36

Sounds like your PO bypassed the starter button on the outboard in order to install a remote starter switch. I don't know where the Evinrude starter button is, but if you find it, you'll probably find the bypass wire, which could be a simple jumper connected to both terminals on the switch.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 11/12/2010 09:01:09

trptelf
Navigator

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USA
113 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2010 : 09:10:13

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Stinkpotter
 Sounds like your PO bypassed the starter button on the outboard in order to install a remote starter switch. I don't know where the Evinrude starter button is, but if you find it, you'll probably find the bypass wire, which could be a simple jumper connected to both terminals on the switch.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

We do have an ignition switch in the cockpit. This is what we are using. Is this what you mean by a remote starter switch? Or do you mean something else?

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2010 : 10:58:56

Edit: Re-reading the entire thread, I'm not comfortable with my speculation here and am retracting my suggestions. I would need to see the wiring.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 11/12/2010 11:11:38

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