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1990 C25--New Guy

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WindyLegacy
Deckhand

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USA
23 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/02/2011 : 07:19:06

I've recently inherited my father's boat after his unexepected passing. So sadly, while I'm excited to continue his passion for sailing, its with sad news of losing him.

Its a '90, std rig, wing keel in great condition. I know it has a new Honda OB, new lines throughout and new batteries. The boat has been in storage most of its life and as far as I know never in salt water. Its new home will be on the Chesapeake, but for now will remain in storage. Its been years since I've been sailing with my Dad and even more years since I've sailed myself, so I'm chock full of questions. I do plan on reading and researching as much as possible and I appreciate all advice and help through very knowledgeable folks on this forum.

1. Planning on trailering it cross country (~1700 miles) later in 2011 and need to know of any special considerations. I have a late model Cummins Diesel truck that will easily haul the boat, trailer and gear. Do I need to look at any weight distributution hitches or other brake controller gear? The trailer has the mechanical hyrdaulic brakes standard.

2. I'm getting ready to order a mooring/trailing cover from Sailor's Tailor. Anyone use them? They look to be great quality, although a little pricey.

3. What types of things do I look for in storing the boat? The motor has never been used, so I don't think it has fuel in it. I will check and add Stabil if it needs it.

4. What steps will I need to look for as I prep to get her water-ready in the later summer/early fall?

Thanks again for everyone insights and I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way!

Thanks,
Todd

Edited by - on

Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 01/02/2011 : 08:44:22

Although I have a trailer for my C25, I never trailer it. I do however tow my power boat (9600lbs) with my Dodge 2500 Cummins diesel. The hydraulic brakes work well, that trailer has disc brakes. I needed to have a tie-in for the back-up lights which disable the trailer's brakes when backing up

I am sure a few people here will tell you to get a survey. That will tell you potential problems and what will need attention. Good luck and welcome to the forum.

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5902 Posts

Response Posted - 01/02/2011 : 09:02:34

I'm sorry to hear of the passing of your father, and am sure he would be pleased to know that you share his passion for sailing.

If you have a 1990 C25, most of us would agree that you have the best of breed.

Sailor's Tailor is in my neighborhood, and I used them for occasional sail repairs. They are excellent sailors and sailmakers, and have won numerous national championships in small boats, and made sails for other national champions. Anything they make should be good quality. I have a full winter cover for my C&C 35, and, although they're expensive, they're worth having. Mine is much easier to put on than the blue plastic tarps that I used to put on my C25. They take a beating during the winter because they are wind-whipped, and mine has needed an occasional seam re-stitched, but I have a sewing machine, and do it myself.

I towed my C25 with a half ton Chevy pu with a 350 engine, air shocks, a transmission cooler and a class IV hitch. While the truck was a bit underpowered, it was nominally satisfactory. In the days of full-sized, big engined cars, I have seen many people tow C25s with big family sedans. Your diesel will have the power to get the rig rolling easily, but it won't help it stop. My trailer had surge brakes, and they're nominally satisfactory, but the best brake system is an electrically actuated system, because you can adjust the braking power to the load. The weight of the whole rig is so great that you don't always have enough friction between the tires and the pavement to stop you. If the pavement is wet or covered with sand or gravel, the tires can lock up, and the rig will slide. Electric brakes greatly reduce this potential. If you have surge brakes, your recourse is to keep your speed down, and watch the road ahead of you, especially where you might have to stop for a traffic light.

If the motor hasn't been run, you don't need to do anything to it, but, after it has been run and you are preparing it for storage, you should add fuel stabilizer and run it long enough for the stabilized fuel to get into the carburetor.

I live aboard my C&C on the Chesapeake Bay all summer. If you need help launching and rigging it this summer, keep in touch, and I'll be happy to assist. It isn't as complicated as it looks, and, after you have done it once, you'll be able to do it yourself (with the help of a couple of beefy friends.)

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 01/02/2011 : 11:14:52

Sorry to hear, Todd... but glad you can find some solace in extending a family tradition. Did your father follow or ever participate in these forums?

The '90 standard rig wing keel is a great choice for the Chesapeake--not too much sail, higher boom, and very shallow draft for the many great gunk-holes, and the nicest interior of all of the vintages. Perhaps you've already decided to lift the boat off and onto the trailer to keep it (and especially the brakes) out of the salt water... so I probably don't need to make that suggestion.

If the engine has truly "never been used", make sure it has oil in the crankcase and grease in the lower unit. I'm pretty sure it will--a Honda dealer isn't allowed to deliver a new engine without bench-testing it in their shop, and you won't find new ones for sale on the web. Hopefully yours was "fogged" before it was put into long-term storage... If you have doubts, you might want to have a dealer or trusted mechanic check it out.

Bottom paint is another topic with lots of threads on these forums, and lots of information on the web. Salt water calls for a somewhat different choice from fresh, and some paints should not be put on top of some other paints. Do you have any record of what your father used? You can use the "Search" function above to bring up the many discussions on this, and start your own thread whenever.

I won't try too hard to sell the idea of a survey, although I'm generally a proponent for potential buyers and new owners... You know the background of the boat, it's been used only in fresh water, and your father apparently maintained and upgraded her appropriately. But your insurance carrier might require a current survey, which should cost around $350. If so, attend the event with a note pad--you'll likely learn a lot, and the mere peace-of-mind can be worth the tab.

How's your experience as a mariner in general (Rules of the road, navigating, communicating, safety, etc.) as well as a sailing skipper in particular? Have you thought about taking something like an ASA course? Even those of us with considerable experience benefit from refreshing, updating, and expanding our knowledge, as I did recently in a captain's license course.

Welcome, and bring on the questions!

Edited by - on

pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 01/02/2011 : 18:01:47

Sorry about your dad, I hope my son keeps my boat when I am gone.
I had one like yours, I am a strong believer in electric brakes, I changed them over myself and it was cake. I have a stupid number of photos of my '89 wing and my '82 swinger that I reference here on the site often. Photos of boats have so much to tell, it is a good idea to look at mine because I spent a lot of time changing hardware and other things on both boats, so things on the boats can be different between two shots. If you really look at the photos you will see a lot of detail. The advise you will get on this forum is golden. Here is a tip for you, the boat you have came with a factory barrier coat, this is worth a thousand dollars and can be ruined if sanded and scratched. When doing bottom paint you must not disturb the barrier coat.

http://gallery.mac.com/fhopper

Edited by - on

WindyLegacy
Deckhand

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USA
23 Posts

Response Posted - 01/02/2011 : 21:17:32

Thank you all for the warm welcome!

Stinkspotter, you mention lifting the boat to launch it. I have toyed with the idea. Is that mainly for ease of launching and for saving any corrosion to the trailer? Or are you suggesting lift launching and recovery after every sail?

I'm heading out to my folks' house where the boat is stored to check the engine, measure for the T/M cover and a few other things. Last I looked I had many other things on my mind, and admittedly didn't know where to start. Besides going over the motor, any other things to look for while I'm there looking her over?

I do plan on taking a course (or two

) since its been WAY too long and even my knots are rusty at best. I'll gladly take any suggestions in this area as well since I'll be new to the Balt/Wash area later in 2011.

Also, I'm not as familiar with a survey. Any suggestions on where I could find one local to the boat in storage?

Edited by - on

WindyLegacy
Deckhand

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USA
23 Posts

Response Posted - 01/02/2011 : 21:28:31

Frank, nice restoration job on the FellowShip...she looks amazing!

Odd question, but did all C25s come with a Spinnaker? While I'm visiting my Mom and going over the boat, I am trying to take some sort of inventory and get organized.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4303 Posts

Response Posted - 01/02/2011 : 22:08:31

Todd,

I'm sorry to hear about your dad. As others have said, I'm sure he's proud of you carrying on his passion of sailing!

Take as many pictures as you can while you're at the boat both inside and out. You can read how to post the pictures by following this link -->> http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2623.

With pictures we can help assess what you have and possibly see any issues you might have with the boat, motor, or trailer. It might also help you avoid a trip back to the boat to check out something minor you might have overlooked while there in person.

Spinnaker's were an option on the C25.

I have an '89 SR/WK (std rig/wing keel)so if you have any questions let me know and I will try to help out. The '89 and '90 models were pretty much identical in design. The only differences would be in the options and modifications that each owner has made over the years.

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5902 Posts

Response Posted - 01/03/2011 : 07:29:38

There are 3 main reasons why you might want to have a survey done.

If you're buying an expensive used boat, you almost certainly want to have it surveyed before you are contracturally committed to buying it, to ensure that you won't be investing your money in a severely deteriorated boat that will need expensive structural repairs. In other words, a survey can protect your investment in a used boat, especially if you are borrowing part of the purchase money. If you aren't investing much in the boat, you might decide not to have it surveyed. For example, if you're buying an old sailboat for $2000-3000, or less, you might decide to inspect it yourself, and take the risk that you'll find any serious structural defects.

The second reason why you might have the boat surveyed is because some (not all) insurance companies require that a boat be surveyed before they will insure it. The important thing to know about an insurance survey is that surveyors don't charge as much for an insurance survey as they do for a pre-purchase survey.

The third reason why you might want to have the boat surveyed is because you want to know all its flaws, so you can develop a repair plan. In this case, you have a choice as to whether you want to pay for a pre-purchase survey, or an insurance survey.

Obviously, the value of a survey depends largely on the knowledge and skill of the surveyor. Surveyors are accredited by one of two national associations, but some surveyors are much better than others. The best way to find a truly skilled surveyor is to seek the recommendations of other boaters.

It's important, also, to hire a surveyor who's loyalty is undivided. Often, when you buy a boat, buyers allow their broker to select a surveyor. When a broker retains the surveyor, he chooses one who he can trust to not screw up the sale, because the broker only gets paid if the deal is consummated. Thus, whenever you buy a boat, never allow the broker to retain the surveyor. You will be paying the surveyor, and you should retain him, so that his loyalty is to you alone.

Surveys don't tell you everything about all the boat's systems. Most notably, the condition of the engine and transmission is not included in a survey. Usually you'll need to have a marine mechanic examine the engine and transmission. A survey may also not include the functionality of ancillary systems, such as air conditioning, stoves, or even plumbing. If you expect your surveyor to examine all those systems, you should discuss it with your surveyor before you retain him.

When the survey is scheduled, you should be there to watch and to ask questions.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 01/03/2011 : 07:36:52

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by WindyLegacy
 Stinkspotter, you mention lifting the boat to launch it. I have toyed with the idea. Is that mainly for ease of launching and for saving any corrosion to the trailer? Or are you suggesting lift launching and recovery after every sail?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">No, just saving the trailer. Although there are some who lift out and "dry slip" their boats, either to save a little money or to keep the bottom clean for racing. My opinion is the C-25 is a little too big for regular "trailer sailing" (raising and dropping the mast and towing her home), although a few folks do that, too.

You can look for a local marine surveyor on their organization's site: http://www.marinesurvey.org/

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/03/2011 : 09:00:35

Sorry to read about your dad. If the boat is in storage at a boat yard with a good service facility, you might want to get it checked out by them before you take it on the road, find out what it needs and address those needs before you move it.
I second getting the survey. While it is out of the water would be a great time to do it.
Do a complete inventory of sails and equipment before traveling. Take lots of pictures.
If it hasn't been moved in a long time, have the trailer thoroughly inspected, i.e. brakes inspected, wheel bearings repacked, tires good, etc.; and don't leave without a spare tire, preferably 2 spares.
Ditto on the outboard. Try to find out who sold it and have them check it out. If there is gas in the tank, drain it out and replace with fresh gas, add Stabil.
Prior to starting the trip, remove all loose items from the boat and store sails in the v-berth. Place the rudder inside the boat, wrapped in an old blanket or sheet to keep paint from rubbing off during the trip. (For our C22, I had a sail bag made long enough to cover the rudder up to the gudgins. Also helps with carrying the rudder.)
You might also want to remove the outboard for the trip - just remember it may be pretty heavy. If you decide to leave it on the mount, tie a safety line from the outboard handle carry to a cleat or up around a winch and then to a cleat.

Edited by - dmpilc on 01/03/2011 09:51:26

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/03/2011 : 10:09:15

A few other things, be sure to join this Association. It not expensive and will be money well spent. We'll all help you as much as we can. If your dad didn't buy it, purchase the parts/handbook from Catalina Direct. It's a very good resource to have on hand. I've got one for both of our boats.
Find a couple of knowledgeable people at your destination to help you step the mast and rig the boat, preferably another C25 owner.
Become friends with another sailor or two who are willing to teach you how to handle your boat. Offer to crew for someone else first to get acclimated then take yours out.
Check your trailer hitch and make sure it will handle the weight. The boat and trailer together will be around 6,000 lbs. If you have a class III hitch rated to 5,ooo lbs, you should consider upgrading to a class IV hitch.
Okay, enough preaching. Enjoy your boat. I'm sure she's a beauty.
PS. If you have trouble finding help and are willing to cover my travel costs, I'll help you move the boat. I'm in between work right now, so I have the time.

Edited by - dmpilc on 01/03/2011 10:22:54

pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 01/03/2011 : 10:53:41

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by WindyLegacy
 Frank, nice restoration job on the FellowShip...she looks amazing!

Odd question, but did all C25s come with a Spinnaker? While I'm visiting my Mom and going over the boat, I am trying to take some sort of inventory and get organized.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Thanks for the props.

No to the spinnaker question, I would hazard to say they are rare on C25s and even more rarely flown. The new Asymmetrical chutes and big drifters are a better fit simply because the C25 is difficult to maneuver on for deck crew.

If you want to chat on the phone to cover a lot of stuff all at once you can email me and we can get together.

Edited by - on

Ryan L
Navigator

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USA
230 Posts

Response Posted - 01/03/2011 : 14:15:30

Another spinnaker solution is to use a regular symmetrical spin with a device like the "ATN Tacker" and "Sleeve" (http://www.atninc.com/tacker_en.php) They make it easy to fly a spin with no pole and therefore provide more options when shopping for sails. I am skilled with using a spin pole but prefer using the tacker on my C25 to save space and keep things simple.

Edited by - on

NCBrew
Captain

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USA
338 Posts

Response Posted - 01/03/2011 : 15:50:04

If the Honda outboard is a 4 stroke, drain the oil before you remove it frøm the boat. Do not lay it down with engine oil in the motor.

I myself would skip the survey unless you have plenty of money and it makes you feel better.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 01/03/2011 : 16:32:19

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by NCBrew
 If the Honda outboard is a 4 stroke, drain the oil before you remove it frøm the boat. Do not lay it down with engine oil in the motor.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Every Honda is a 4-stroke, and they can be laid down with the oil in, on the side that has the little "feet" on the cowling for that purpose, with the tiller handle up. If you lay it on the other side, oil will leak out.

Edited by - on

mmac
Navigator

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USA
168 Posts

Response Posted - 01/03/2011 : 18:05:16

Todd,
I'm sorry to hear of your father's passing. I lost my father about 10 years ago in a similar manner. My situation was a little different as I was the one who introduced him to sailing. He loved it so much, he took several classes and became a sailing instructor at the San Diego Navy Sailing Club for the last 15 years of his life.

Anyway welcome to the forum. Anything you want to know about owning a C-25, you can learn here. As David P mentioned, you should go to the Catalina Direct site: http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?category=5 and buy their C-25 Handbook($9.95). They are great resource for maintaining our out-of-production boats. Of course, a '90 is the jewel many of us owners of older 25's aspire to upgrade our boats to.

Again welcome. I hope you will join our association and get as much enjoyment from your C-25 as the rest of us do.

Edited by - on

WindyLegacy
Deckhand

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USA
23 Posts

Response Posted - 01/03/2011 : 21:03:02

Great resources, thank you everyone! While I'm visiting the boat next week I'll take a ton of pictures and will have more questions. I will also look through to see if my Dad already has the Catalina25 handbook. I'd venture to say he does since he was always very thorough with his hobbies and having the right gear.

Anyone know if I can do a search for him to see if he ever posted on this forum?

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 01/03/2011 : 22:48:22

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by WindyLegacy
 Anyone know if I can do a search for him to see if he ever posted on this forum?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">The "Members" link above gives you a list of participants in the forums. You can search or peruse them alphabetically by User Name, First Name, or Last Name, based on what is entered in the profile, and look up profile details for individuals. If you have trouble, give us his name--we should be able to find him if he's there. (Some don't put names in their profiles.)

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 01/03/2011 22:51:25

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/04/2011 : 08:06:21

Todd,
The Catalina Direct should be a black 3-ring notebook holding 5x7 size paper, if that helps you look for it.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 01/04/2011 : 08:36:26

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dmpilc
 Todd,
The Catalina Direct should be a black 3-ring notebook holding 5x7 size paper, if that helps you look for it.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">...and they're at www.catalinadirect.com, where you can get an idea of the stuff and knowledge they offer for our boats. The Owner's Handbook (essentially their catalog--updated free each year) has even more information than their site, and they are very helpful via phone or e-mail. (Of course, the C-250 being a current product, Catalina Yachts is a useful source, too.)

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 01/04/2011 08:36:55

jebrant
Deckhand

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USA
19 Posts

Response Posted - 01/08/2011 : 18:46:12

I'm sorry to hear about your loss, but I'm glad you are going to keep up with the boat and sailing. This has been a great boat for me and my family with only moderate sailing experience.
I will just tell you my story of my 1600 mile trip last spring with my boat so you can draw your own parallels.
I have a 1982 C25 with a fin keel and a custom trailer. I towed it from it's former home in Stillhouse Lake, Belton Texas to West Point New York, about the same distance you will drive, and it was doable.
I took three days and nights to drive it at about 55mph and I towed it with a 1996 Dodge Ram 4x4 1500 5.9L v8 (215K miles

) and the trailer is a tandem axle "Four Wynns" with the mechanical/hydraulic surge breaks.

Just to answer #'s 1 and 2 of your questions about towing:
1. No, as long as your load is balanced on the axles of the trailer properly strapped down using heavy ratchet straps, and the trailer brake hardware is in good condition, then you won't need anything else. Your truck sounds strong enough. I used the 10K pound nylon ratchet straps to secure my boat to the trailer. They allow some stretch during bounce on rough roads. I mistakenly tightened one strap too tight when checking the rig and it broke on a particularly hard bounce in Ohio, so make them taut but not so tight they ring when you flick them with your finger. *Just ease into the brake pedal so the mechanical trailer brakes kick in simultaneously with the truck brakes and you'll have no issues, assuming you drive conservatively.

2. No special covers necessary. I just used the $15 tarps from Walmart with bungee coards and a canvas cover for the teak wood on the boat. It gets mighty dirty from being on the road. I encountered no rain until the last day of my trip (approx. May 6-10th, 2010).

The combined total load truck/trailer/cargo was 13,200 lbs. I did not use auxiliary electric brake hardware. I inspected all the brakes and lights on the trailer before I left and all the pads were in good shape on each wheel.

Take some tools and some kind of emergency kit with you:
When I left I brought a tool box with normal tools, a tire repair kit (tire plug kit, can of fix-a-flat), two LED headlamps that allowed white light and red light, soldering kit (wire and solder with a butane soldering iron), and an ohm-meter. A step-ladder; box of bungee cords, a couple of tarps from walmart, two jack stands, and a five Ton Bottle jack with two pieces of 2x6. Oh, and an ice chest full of Red Bull and Rip-It energy drinks for just over three days of 12-hour driving days!

When I left, everything worked on the trailer and the truck.

I had only two problems on the trip:
1. tires - they looked new but were not of course and dry rot became apparent after day one on the trip. I had bought one new tire before I left due to a nail in the sidewall from pulling the boat out of the lake. On the trip I lost a tire cap on day two, and replaced that tire, both new ones were on the right side. The next day in ohio I noticed some chunks of rubber flying off again. I replaced the remaining two tires at a Wal-Mart in Ohio with new Goodyears and had no further issues. Lesson: Don't trust the tires on the trailer unless you KNOW the year they were bought. Mine were manufactured in 2003 and installed in 2004 by the previous owner (found this out from the tire guy reading the sidewall code). He only used them about four times in 5 years.

2. The trailer developed a short in the left side brake light wiring that blew the fuse for the truck marker lights...and dash lights I might add. Happened when I turned on the lights the evening of the LAST night! Vibration apparently caused a wire to chafe inside the trailer frame rail since I could not isolate it with any exposed wiring. I couldn't fix it so I clipped the brake light wire where it split going out the left side and it stopped the shorting. I then took my LED headlamp, switched it to RED, and duct-taped it to frame above the left taillight. Worked like a charm to get me through the last night of the trip.
I also had reflectors on each of the trailer support rails high up on the side of the boat.
Lesson: I did right by adding reflectors, bringing a basic emergency kit with battery operated lights, tape, etc.

So bottom line is try to be prepared and don't rush anything. By taking my time I had no real issues even with a truck that is less capable than yours. I was comfortable climbing hills in the blue mountains at 45mph.

Good Luck!

James

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by WindyLegacy
 I've recently inherited my father's boat after his unexepected passing. So sadly, while I'm excited to continue his passion for sailing, its with sad news of losing him.

Its a '90, std rig, wing keel in great condition. I know it has a new Honda OB, new lines throughout and new batteries. The boat has been in storage most of its life and as far as I know never in salt water. Its new home will be on the Chesapeake, but for now will remain in storage. Its been years since I've been sailing with my Dad and even more years since I've sailed myself, so I'm chock full of questions. I do plan on reading and researching as much as possible and I appreciate all advice and help through very knowledgeable folks on this forum.

1. Planning on trailering it cross country (~1700 miles) later in 2011 and need to know of any special considerations. I have a late model Cummins Diesel truck that will easily haul the boat, trailer and gear. Do I need to look at any weight distributution hitches or other brake controller gear? The trailer has the mechanical hyrdaulic brakes standard.

2. I'm getting ready to order a mooring/trailing cover from Sailor's Tailor. Anyone use them? They look to be great quality, although a little pricey.

....

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2011 : 11:40:00

Sailor's Tailor is not far from me, and I have been very happy with their work.

Edited by - on

WindyLegacy
Deckhand

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USA
23 Posts

Response Posted - 05/21/2011 : 07:25:41

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by jebrant
 I'm sorry to hear about your loss, but I'm glad you are going to keep up with the boat and sailing. This has been a great boat for me and my family with only moderate sailing experience.
I will just tell you my story of my 1600 mile trip last spring with my boat so you can draw your own parallels.
I have a 1982 C25 with a fin keel and a custom trailer. I towed it from it's former home in Stillhouse Lake, Belton Texas to West Point New York, about the same distance you will drive, and it was doable.
I took three days and nights to drive it at about 55mph and I towed it with a 1996 Dodge Ram 4x4 1500 5.9L v8 (215K miles

) and the trailer is a tandem axle "Four Wynns" with the mechanical/hydraulic surge breaks.

Just to answer #'s 1 and 2 of your questions about towing:
1. No, as long as your load is balanced on the axles of the trailer properly strapped down using heavy ratchet straps, and the trailer brake hardware is in good condition, then you won't need anything else. Your truck sounds strong enough. I used the 10K pound nylon ratchet straps to secure my boat to the trailer. They allow some stretch during bounce on rough roads. I mistakenly tightened one strap too tight when checking the rig and it broke on a particularly hard bounce in Ohio, so make them taut but not so tight they ring when you flick them with your finger. *Just ease into the brake pedal so the mechanical trailer brakes kick in simultaneously with the truck brakes and you'll have no issues, assuming you drive conservatively.

2. No special covers necessary. I just used the $15 tarps from Walmart with bungee coards and a canvas cover for the teak wood on the boat. It gets mighty dirty from being on the road. I encountered no rain until the last day of my trip (approx. May 6-10th, 2010).

The combined total load truck/trailer/cargo was 13,200 lbs. I did not use auxiliary electric brake hardware. I inspected all the brakes and lights on the trailer before I left and all the pads were in good shape on each wheel.

Take some tools and some kind of emergency kit with you:
When I left I brought a tool box with normal tools, a tire repair kit (tire plug kit, can of fix-a-flat), two LED headlamps that allowed white light and red light, soldering kit (wire and solder with a butane soldering iron), and an ohm-meter. A step-ladder; box of bungee cords, a couple of tarps from walmart, two jack stands, and a five Ton Bottle jack with two pieces of 2x6. Oh, and an ice chest full of Red Bull and Rip-It energy drinks for just over three days of 12-hour driving days!

When I left, everything worked on the trailer and the truck.

I had only two problems on the trip:
1. tires - they looked new but were not of course and dry rot became apparent after day one on the trip. I had bought one new tire before I left due to a nail in the sidewall from pulling the boat out of the lake. On the trip I lost a tire cap on day two, and replaced that tire, both new ones were on the right side. The next day in ohio I noticed some chunks of rubber flying off again. I replaced the remaining two tires at a Wal-Mart in Ohio with new Goodyears and had no further issues. Lesson: Don't trust the tires on the trailer unless you KNOW the year they were bought. Mine were manufactured in 2003 and installed in 2004 by the previous owner (found this out from the tire guy reading the sidewall code). He only used them about four times in 5 years.

2. The trailer developed a short in the left side brake light wiring that blew the fuse for the truck marker lights...and dash lights I might add. Happened when I turned on the lights the evening of the LAST night! Vibration apparently caused a wire to chafe inside the trailer frame rail since I could not isolate it with any exposed wiring. I couldn't fix it so I clipped the brake light wire where it split going out the left side and it stopped the shorting. I then took my LED headlamp, switched it to RED, and duct-taped it to frame above the left taillight. Worked like a charm to get me through the last night of the trip.
I also had reflectors on each of the trailer support rails high up on the side of the boat.
Lesson: I did right by adding reflectors, bringing a basic emergency kit with battery operated lights, tape, etc.

So bottom line is try to be prepared and don't rush anything. By taking my time I had no real issues even with a truck that is less capable than yours. I was comfortable climbing hills in the blue mountains at 45mph.

Good Luck!

James
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James, been awhile since I've been on the site, but VERY good info around your trailering experience. Sounds like similar jaunts (mileage wise). Outside electrical, I'm thinking I may just buy all 4 new tires and be done with it for peace of mind. Do you remember what your replacements ran you?

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cshaw
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Response Posted - 05/21/2011 : 07:42:26

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by WindyLegacy
James, been awhile since I've been on the site, but VERY good info around your trailering experience. Sounds like similar jaunts (mileage wise). Outside electrical, I'm thinking I may just buy all 4 new tires and be done with it for peace of mind. Do you remember what your replacements ran you?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Todd!!!!! I lost track of you!! Great to hear you still have the boat!

Just to try to help answer your question, I got the tires for Confetti's trailer at Discount Tires. I looked around and could not find anyplace that could beat their overall bottom line prices while also keeping things really simple and hassle free for me. I cannot remember what I paid, but you really want to get actual "Trailer Tires" not just truck or car tires for the trailer. Take the weight of the load (boat and trailer and anything extra you will have stowed in her or on the trailer) and the current tire and rim sizes to the tire store and let them make a recommendation on what to get. I can go look at Confetti's trailer and send you the info on them if you want.....

Cheers!

Chuck

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WindyLegacy
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Response Posted - 05/21/2011 : 09:47:33

Hey Chuck! How goes it? Up in Baltimore now and planning the trip in the next 6-8 wks out to CO and back. Is Confetti in the water?

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