Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Before setting off beginning February to Lake Havasu, Ar. wanted to make sure that wheels carrying the boat are up to the 4500 km (2800 mile) plus round trip.
Just a little over $1000.00 before taxes later the '95 Trailrite trailer has... 4, made in China, new Westlake P215/75R14 ST 50 PSI load range C type tires plus new bearings and break cylinders. The old tires, bearings and breaks served us well during the last 40.000 km (25000 miles) Opinions greatly differ on "China made", tires... I guess we'll find out!!
Shop's recommendation is to repack bearings, especially when launching is salt water, once a year regardless of installed buddy bearings
The inside of the back port tire developed a tread separation which did not show up during casual inspections
A typical failed and overheated bearing... (sample from another trailer)
Henk & Johanna "Floating", a few off your "barnacles". "Someday Lady" '95 C250WB #151 ('03 - 2016) "Sea ya" 30ft Bayliner (04-2018 - 09-2018) "Mariah" '96 C250WB #191 (05-2019 - 15-05-2023) "Lady J" '00 C250WK #499 (05-2021 - 09-2022)
That hidden, inner part of the tire is what failed in a massive blowout on my trip to florida last year. My tire inspections are much more thorough now. The problem with Chinese made tires is that some of the steeply discounted ones have NO quality control and might be OK or junk. Reputable dealers will generally not handle those brands; my Chinese radials seem fine, and I was stunned at how much they improved my gas milage compared to the previous conventional bias ply tires that I had.
Have a great trip. I have pealed a tire that looked good, made it back with bad bearing and now repack bearing and air up spare too. The mirrors are adjusted to also see tires or smoke. If coming thru CA, chain requirements include trailer on only one axle. Looks as if you prepared. Are we going to get a log of the trip?
Thanks for the trailer chain info... we'll obtain a set for the trailer as well. Given the winter conditions not sure which would be the best route from Vancouver, BC, to Lake Havasu, Arizona...
Following the "Pocket Cruiser Convention", we look forward to enjoy San Diego's, Mission Bay again. It'll be a pleasure to write about the winter adventure
BC residents Peter and Angela Holdack, will accompany us with a 29ft motorhome while towing their '95 C250 "seabear"
Hydraulic break cylinder leaked and needed replacement
Sounds like a great trip. We have been looking at several sites in the beautiful Vancover/Victoria area. We are taking an Alaskan cruise in May and are going to spend 6 days touring in your area before the cruise. Is the temperature at that time reasonable? 50-60's or better?
Looks like you are getting well prepared. For a trip that long, you might want to add a second spare tire. Although I don't have salt water issues, I think I would consider repacking bearings after six months or at least after the last salt water experience for the season.
Gerry a trip that would've taken 15 minutes took almost 2 hours from home to the shop and turned a few heads along the way. Admittedly I took a little detour through main-street of our town just to get the "feeling", again. Can't wait to get going!!
Jack we'll be glad, if we're in town, to welcome you to beautiful BC... May is normally nice with sunny skies and reasonable warm temperatures. If you have time allow yourself the luxury of renting a car and drive via the Sea-To-Sky highway from Vancouver to Whistler or Pemberton... Take time to explore Vancouver's Stanley Park and the downtown area. Your cruise ship will depart and arrive from the heart of Vancouver with many attractions within walking distance.
David... good idea to take two spares... Even though we drove around 40.000 km (24000 miles) we never had a flat or problems with brakes or bearings.
Coast, Spring & Axle in Langley suggest the following: 1) Apply a couple of pumps of grease in the buddy bearings before each launching. 2) Check wheel bearings for temperature or even better by a remote temp gauge (cost approx $50.00) every time you stop 3) Check wheels for excessive play 4) Repack bearings annually (cost $170.00 including seals plus tax)
Come to think of it... had a flat occurred during our trip we would have had a significant problem fitting a standard car jack below the axle. Clearance, with full tires, below the trailer axle is only 8.6". A flat will reduce this by approximately another 5" leaving only 3.5" below the axle... Any suggestions? 1) Drag, if possible, the trailer forward onto a, from 3" to 9", tapered wood block to raise the axle to a minimum 9" or high enough to install the jack 2) Use some kind of lever to raise and block the wheel axle 3) Phone roadside assistance (AAA) 3) Any ideas or suggestions??
Saltwater really isn't that much of a problem for the occasional dip with bearing buddies or oil splashers as long as you allow plenty of time for for cooling off. I just top off occasionally and only repack every other year or so, but I only tow about 2,200 miles a year in four doses. Have a great trip Henk and Johanna, and I' ll be looking forward to your article.
I'll probably splash Pearl sunday or monday in Pensacola - can't wait!
Come to think of it... had a flat occurred during our trip we would have had a significant problem fitting a standard car jack below the axle. Clearance, with full tires, below the trailer axle is only 8.6". A flat will reduce this by approximately another 5" leaving only 3.5" below the axle... Any suggestions?
Just pull the good tire on the other axle up onto 2x6 blocks til you can change the bad tire without needing a jack. If it still isn't high enough you should then be able to get a jack under it and go from there.
I had a flat years ago and if I remember correctly, I disconnected trailer from hitch, placed trailer jackstand under rear cross member of trailer, cranked tung up until I had clearance for jack under the axel.
Henk, Thanks for the info, we are going to end up in Denali befor heading home.The only drawback is I will miss first 3 weeks of racing.
Use the tapered 4x4 or 4x6 block method with the good axle tire as mentioned above (very inexpensive), or buy a 2-ton floor jack (the kind on 4 small wheels) and keep it in the tow vehicle when you travel. They are not that expensive, I think I paid $20 for mine, on sale. A friend of mine uses tapered 4x4's as wheel chocks. A 6" taper on a 18" piece of 4x4 would leave 12" for the good tire to sit on and might give you enough room for your jack. Heck, with that you might not even need the jack.
When I started replacing my tires a while back, I bought 2 tires, already mounted on white painted rims, from Northern Tool on sale for about $100 ea., before sales tax. Local tire shops wanted that much for the tire alone. I bought another one on Ebay for about the same. Then I bought just a tire on ebay for about $70, then decided to get a 4th white rim. Finally found one for about $25, but then had to pay the local guys to mount it. Would have been better to buy the 4th one already mounted. One of my original wheels had gone bad - rust around the valve stem - and was losing air. Chucked a second original rim and kept the other two for the spare tires (2 of the tires and rims are still in decent shape).
I use the cheap floor jack approach, in conjunction with a not cheap jackstand - works fine. I always carry a tow kit with a large vise grip, crescent, jackstand, jack, and a good quality, large cross lug wrench. I have a decent tool kit on Pearl if I need something more. After trying to find new lug bolts this year, I will also keep a couple spares in the kit. I considered a replacement hub/bearing package, but decided that I will just call Trailer Assist if it comes to replacing bearings or hub by the side of the road.
Our tow kit includes a hydralic jack from Harbor freight. Had to use it a couple of times, fit under the trailer frame easily even with a flat tire.
As we tow for each sail, I always give the bearing buddies one or two pumps of fresh grease, wiping out the old stuff near the outer edge of the buddy each time.
I also apply a pump of grease to the 3 nipples on the break assembly at the trailer tongue.
We trail 80 miles each way to the ramp about 10-12 times a year (more would be nice :) but I service the trailer this way every trip.
Wish we could handle the time and money for that trip Henk, sounds like a great venue. Do us proud
I also carry a 2 1/2 ton floor jack which was selected because of it's own weight, Wallyworld. A light unit with the lift from a low point about 3 1/2 inches. A breaker bar with correct 6 point socket is now my choice for lug nuts, I can use my foot and my weight. Also on board is spare set of bearings with races and the punch and hammer. I have switched to a high temp grease and give the Buddy Bearing caps pumps until the inside moves. Henk, I'll be up in your area this coming summer taking our family day sailing.
Although it seems to me a little precarious, most likely workable and certainly economical I obtained the following from another website...
From: Rob Hoffman Time: 09:23 AM Regarding the "jack block", I measure the distance from the ground to the underside of the axle (or trailer jack point) at normal loaded running condition. Add around a inch to that for working clearance and cut your block to that height. If you blow a tire, pick a spot under that point where you can tilt the block at enough of an angle to wedge it under, where when it comes vertical, the axle will rest on top. This is usually a 30 to 45 degree angle with a deflated tire still on the rim. After wedging it in place, use the tow vehicle to pull forward very slowly until the axle rests on top of the block and the wheel comes clear...then set the tow vehicle's brake and chock the other trailer wheel. After changing the tire, pull the rig slowly forward (or backwards) and the block will come free for stowage and later use. This method will work on nearly all boat trailers, but it may take some experimentation to locate the best lift point(s) depending on the design of the trailer and the type of suspension it has.
I recommend checking those valve stems by giving them a good yank in all directions.
When I bought my C250, I checked the tires closely and they appeared to be in very good condition. I did not check the valve stems. Honestly, had not checked the tire pressure because I had no immediate way to fill them and the pressure appeared OK. I was not too worried as my initial destination was to get the brakes, bearings and wheels serviced before my long haul home. To make a long story short, I did not even make it 10 miles down the road before trouble began. I had a trucker flag me about problems. I pulled over to check things out and saw one tire was nearly flat and hissing loudly. The valve stem was hanging on by a thread. I touched the other three and they would hiss upon being touched. That road side service cost me dearly. I could have bought four brand new tires for what it cost to replace those valve stems.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.