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New halyards and sheets

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5236 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/19/2011 : 16:28:31

Today, I went to my local Connecticut West Marine store to return some holiday items and use my gift card. When I got there, I was surprised to learn that the Milford store and the Fairfield store were going to close and be consolidated into a new and larger Stratford store.

So they dusted off all the junk in the back room and put some orange sale tags on everything, but I didn't need any of that. However, I was delighted to learn that line for sheets and halyards was on sale -- at 1/2 price.

WOW! So, I've been putting off replacing my sheets and halyards and so went for broke. I got 270 ft of 3/8" blue and red Color-Coded Sta-Set from New England Ropes for under 50 cents a foot.

Since I did not have the measurements handy, I guesstimated that I'd use about 40' for the jib sheets, 40' for the mainsheet, 80' for the jib halyard and 90' for the main halyard. I've got 20 foot extra just in case I miscalculated.

If I can get the mast down using an A-frame this spring, I will replace my topping lift as well with the best portion of the old line. But if I can't I'll messenger the new halyards in place using the old ones.

It'll be nice to have new, clean lines to match my new dock lines from last year.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Edited by - on

bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1739 Posts

Response Posted - 01/19/2011 : 17:13:57

Bruce -- are you doing the splicing or did they include that? I have used the Fairfield store a few times -- easy to get to location and so close to three yacht clubs! Hope Stratford is located well.

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 01/19/2011 : 17:33:02

Bruce, do you use a single line with a cow hitch for your jib or do you use separate lines port and starboard?

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 01/19/2011 : 17:39:57

Great deal! You'll probably use a little less for halyards, so you' may have enough new stuff for the topping lift.. The main is about 65' up and down, less than 10' to the cockpit, and a tail; the jib halyard's up and down is a little longer because it angles forward.

edit: I assumed that you were talking 40' each for port and starboard. I went a little less, 1.5 boat lengths, but the couple of extra feet from rounding to to 40' would have been better with my 150.

Edited by - Dave5041 on 01/19/2011 17:45:35

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/19/2011 : 21:52:27

You got a great deal. I use a single line genoa sheet 66' long and have plenty of line in the cockpit. When I replaced the halyards on our tall rig, I bought 5/16" Sta-SetX 78' each for the halyards which has worked out very well. The jib halyard comes back to the cockpit, and I plan to bring the main halyard back this spring. The main halyard can be shorter than the jib halyard (mast length x 2 plus 10' back to the cockpit should still leave a few feet extra. Allow 50' for the main sheet.
3/8" line will be too big for the topping lift. Use 1/4" line.

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5236 Posts

Response Posted - 01/19/2011 : 22:10:29

Peter, I have all rope halyards, not spliced wire and rope. I will just run the halyards up on the old ones and remove the old ones. For you it would be easy on and easy off I-95 Exit 33.

John, instead of using a cow hitch for the genny sheet, I thread a thin line through the clew cringle and make a gripper knot fast to the sheet. Technically, it's called a "dropper knot". This way there is no heavy fastener clip or knot swinging around the foredeck hitting people on the head.

Dave, for the jib sheets, I'm going to measure twice and cut once. When the jib is furled, I like to have 3 feet extra in the cockpit, but since I run a stopper knot through the cam cleat, I don't need a great deal of excess line.

David, I should have some 1/4" around for the topping lift. You'd be surprised how many people pull themselves up off the cockpit seats using the boom, so it ought to be a stout line.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3370 Posts

Response Posted - 01/20/2011 : 04:58:24

Bruce,

You got a great price on that line !!
I recently replaced my halyards (sheets were replaced about a year or two ago). I paid considerably more for my line from Defender but it was at the time less expensive compared to WM. (The line was not on sale from WM at the time and I believe Defender had some sort of discount which made it beneficial for me to order online at the time.)I do not use my jib halyard since my furling rig is attached to the front stay but I changed the jib halyard anyway. I used Sampson XLS Extra T which I believe is comperable to what you used. On the main halyard I went with Sampson Warpspeed. On the sheets I used Sampson XLS Extra T same as for the jib halyard. (Warpspeed has very little stretch but cost twice as much as the XLS Extra T and so that is why I only bought it for the main halyard. The cost of the Warpspeed was ...I am embarrased to mention how much compared to your super buy !)

I had no problem installing the halyards basically sewing the new line to the end of the old line and then passing it up thru the mast block at the bottom of the mast and then over the top of the mast and back down and attached new shackle(s) to the end of the jib and main halyards.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 01/20/2011 : 06:15:54

That is a great deal. For me though, I prefer different colours for each halyard since I can be a little befuddled at times. Of course for cheap, if the only colour is green with blue tracer or whatever, then that becomes my fav. colour.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 01/20/2011 : 07:38:29

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Prospector
 Of course for cheap, if the only colour is green with blue tracer or whatever, then that becomes my fav. colour.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

That is precisely why both of my halyards are solid green. Gotta love those clearance sales!

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3370 Posts

Response Posted - 01/20/2011 : 12:46:03

My jib halyad has tracer red in it and the main halyard has tracer green in it. But the price you paid for that line is the over-riding deal breaker. Enjoy !

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9016 Posts

Response Posted - 01/20/2011 : 15:41:48

Bruce has a furler that uses the jib halyard, so that can be left cleated to the mast for the season--no need for color-coding. I hope the Sta-Set resists stretch as well as the Krypton I had on Passage--I never had to adjust the furler halyard through the entire season. The sheaves I put on the mast-head were made for 5/16" rope--hopefully they'll be fine with 3/8".

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5236 Posts

Response Posted - 01/20/2011 : 18:41:28

So Dave, I was standing in the store saying to myself,
"hmmm what size is the halyard line?"
"Should I call Dave? or should I not call Dave? - he'd know right off the top of his head."
I really didn't want to make a phone call to you out of the blue. Had no idea what you might have been doing at the time.
And, it was "move or get off the pot"-time on this deal, so I had to move on it or miss out.
Of course, now I'm wishing I had made the call.
Even a bargain price is no bargain if you can't use the stuff!
Well, maybe the sheaves have worn enough so that now they'll accommodate 3/8".

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9016 Posts

Response Posted - 01/20/2011 : 21:57:15

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Voyager
 ...Well, maybe the sheaves have worn enough so that now they'll accommodate 3/8".<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">You shoulda called... For me "every day's Saturday".

I think the sheaves are shallow enough that an extra 16th will ride in them. And I'm quite sure 3/8" will work in your clutch.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 01/20/2011 21:58:41

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/21/2011 : 06:45:25

If you decide to buy 5/16" line for your halyards, I'll buy 100' of your 3/8" line for $50 plus shipping.
I bought my halyards on Ebay from Milwaukee Rigging. Pricing was very good.

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5236 Posts

Response Posted - 01/21/2011 : 08:06:35

Whoa, that was quick!
Won't know for a while - currently 2 ft of snow around Passage, up on the hard til 4/30.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/21/2011 : 09:27:20

Here's a site for Cajun XLE 5/16" for $0.41/ft. Don't know if splicing is available. I have not bought from them before:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-16-x-100-ft-Cajun-XLE-yacht-rope-blue-flecks-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53d4781aa9QQitemZ360046926505QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/21/2011 : 09:47:14

Same folks, but here is a chart for complete standing rigging for a C250. It's dated 2009 so the current prices may be a little higher. I'm going to ask if they have a similar chart for the C25:

http://www.cajunrope.com/rigging/250.pdf

FWIW, the replacement sheaves sold by CD for converting from wire/rope to all rope halyards are for 5/16" line.

Edited by - dmpilc on 01/21/2011 09:56:51

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/24/2011 : 14:23:42

I'll revise my earlier statement to allow 50 ft. for the mainsheet. I checked the official parts manual, and it specifies 75 ft. However, based on the accompanying drawing, that would apply if you have a double block on the end of the boom and a double block with becket on the traveler bar, producing 4 segments of line between the 2 blocks. If you have a single block with becket on the boom, you will have only 3 segments of line between the blocks and can reduce the length to about 65 ft. (eliminating 1 length of the distance from boom-end, with the boom positioned next to the shrouds, to the opposite end of the traveler bar).
If you take the additional step that I have done and tie a quality 5/16" line about 3 ft. long to the boom-end and attach the single block to that line, bringing the block down almost to the block on the traveler bar, you can knock off another 5-6 ft. of length that you would otherwise have to sheet in after running off the wind.

The parts manual also specifies halyard lengths. Rounding up to whole feet, the main and jib halyards (all rope) should be 63 and 65 feet, respectively, for the standard rig, if cleated on the mast. Add 4 ft. to each for the tall rig. Add add another 10-12 ft to each if halyards are brought back to the cockpit.

Edited by - dmpilc on 01/24/2011 14:37:29

Joe Diver
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1218 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2011 : 16:23:12

Sorry to resurrect a thread, but it's not that old...

One of the good points of my boat is the running rigging is in really good shape.

I want to replace my mainsheet simply because it's looking a little worn compared to all the rest which is only a season old at most...so, 5/16" and 70' of it?

I do need to replace the backstay adjuster rigging...it's the only one not in good shape. What size and length do I need for that?

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9016 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2011 : 17:58:44

Scott--I'll only offer the opinion that you might like 3/8" better than 5/16" for the mainsheet--just for handling. On these boats, 5/16" is a good size for halyards. I like single-braid line (like New England Regatta) for sheets--nicer on the hands and less prone to hockling (getting kinks from being twisted), and lies nicely on the cockpit seat by the winch (or wherever). Check it out if you can.

Edited by - on

Joe Diver
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USA
1218 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2011 : 19:45:55

I'll measure what's on there now as well...and see if I can get my hands on both lines. I bet you're right though and the 3/8 will be more comfortable....thinking more on it, my mainsheet is heavier line than my halyards and backstay adjuster.

70' the right length though?

Edited by - on

Joe Diver
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1218 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2011 : 20:03:06

Nevermind....used my brain and looked in the parts manual...wonderful thing it is....

3/8 x 75' 0"

Backstay adjuster line:

1/4 x 15' 0"

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9016 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2011 : 20:44:58

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Joe Diver
 ...looked in the parts manual...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">The lengths are instructive--the diameters are subject to personal taste. (On this size boat, all of them are strong enough.)

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Joe Diver
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USA
1218 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2011 : 21:24:32

I'm kind of a big guy with big hands so I bet the bigger lines like you suggest will serve me well.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2011 : 07:00:29

Absolutely 3/8" line for the mainsheet! I've currently got 5/16" line on my C-22 mainsheet and 3/8" on the C-25. I put 5/16" Sta-Set on the C-22 for racing purposes(lighter weight), but I'm thinking of going back to 3/8" and single braid.

Edit: Take a glance at my 1/24/11 reply. your mainsheet length will vary depending on how you have it rigged. You may not need 75'.

Edited by - dmpilc on 04/07/2011 07:12:02

Joe Diver
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1218 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2011 : 07:39:27

Luckily I have a high resolution pic of the stern I can zoom in on....The top block is a single and the bottom is a double, so I have 3 lines in the tackle.

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