Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm not sure what, in particular, you're concerned about. The spreader looks OK to me, except the wire looks like it is rusting, so it should be replaced with new ss wire while the mast is down. Also, rubber spreader boots should be installed. They aren't absolutely necessary, but they'll protect your sail from rubbing on the spreader and the wire seizing.
I just looked at your whole flikr file and I agree with Steve. The spreader tips look fine to my eye. You might wish to pull the spreaders from the base and check for corrosion (it's simple to do). I would get either rubber or leather boots to install while the mast is down. You should also replace the anchor light and probably go ahead and replace the steaming light, while the mast is down as well. Looks like the UV rays have rendered your anchor light lens very opaque.
Eddy, if you poke around under the manuals and brochures area of this site (left column), you'll find a diagram showing exactly how the spreader wire should be fastened. It also recommends spreader boots to avoid snagging the sail, as Steve and Tom mentioned.
As to your spreader tip, it's probably fine, but one might say your seizing holes are 90 degrees out from the end cap slot. Also, I don't know if I would put the twisted wire ends on the end of the cap. They could poke through the boot (if you use one) which then could possiblly catch a sail.
There appears to be two schools of thought regarding how much tension you place on the wire. Some leave enough play when seizing so the shroud can't pop out of the end cap yet it can still move up and down along the shroud allowing the spreader to find its own angle. Others tighten it up so the spreader tip is rather immobile relative to the shroud.
being a novice I was concerned that the wire was a jimmy-rig solution and not what catalina intended. As I can see now that is not the case.. I have already ordered a new anchor light. I will check for corrosion before I put that mast back up.. I will add new boots too before I'm all done.
I have cotter pins in the spreader and through the end caps at the outboard holes. The end caps have holes for safety wire and it traps the shroud securely but with freedom to slide up and down.
The next time I get that close to my spreaders with the mast down. I would like to install a set of rollers to help my 150 move around the shrouds boots a little easier in light air. Maybe a woeful(sp?) ball or something to help that sail get around. Maybe some of the other members have some better ideas or photo
For the first five years of ownership my spreader tips did not have the holes for the seizing wire, just those for the cotter keys. It came from the dealer that way and I assumed it was correct. The upper shroud stayed in place by tension alone. No failures ever occurred but I have since drilled the holes and installed stainless seizing wire the last 18 years.
Regarding wire tension, I generally wrap the wire loosely so that the shroud passes through easily. The problem for me has been with rubber spreader boots which, when taped, often grip the shroud and get scrunched into a little ball on the end of the spreader. I have started using plastic wire ties to secure the boots a little more loosely, which has seemed to solve the problem.
Speaking of spreaders, I was thinking of installing a burgee block and halyard on the starboard spreader. Is there a problem with weakening the spreader by drilling a few small holes for a block attachment? I would imagine those of you who have installed spreader lights would have some insight into this.
Since the loads on the spreader are compression loads, drilling a small hole or two won't weaken them significantly.
Regarding flying a burgee/flag from the spreaders, I tried it once but on certain points of sail, the incessant noise of the burgee slapping the main drove me nuts.
I haven't checked my book of marine flag etiquette lately, but I do not believe that flags of any kind are meant to be flown from the spreader. A burgee is traditionally flown from a "pigstick" at the masthead. Country of origin flags are normally flown from the transom or off a halyard along the leach of the main.
That being said, it has become traditional for recreatinal boaters to fly flags from a spreader halyard. I have a club burgee halyard attached to my starboard spreader with no ill effects other than having to account for another line when raising the mast.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by aeckhart</i> <br /> I have a club burgee halyard attached to my starboard spreader with no ill effects other than having to account for another line when raising the mast. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I agree. I have flown club burgees, fun flags, and signal flags from my starboard spreader for the last 35 years aboard Confetti and have not had any problems. I keep the flag halyard tensioned via a bungee cord.
All the yacht club types around here fly the club burgee below the starboard spreader. I'm not a member of the local club ("I don't want to belong to any club that would accept me as a member"; Groucho Marx... or..."It costs <i>how much </i> to join?"; John Keeler), but since I'm an ex-submarine sailor, I figured a small submarine dolphin flag would suffice as my pseudo-yacht club burgee.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.