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hull clean/polish/wax (again)

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skybird
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Initially Posted - 03/12/2011 : 22:16:11

I have read a lot of info in this forum and others about reviving the gelcoat on the hull, but after jumping in with both feet to polish mine up, I figured out I needed to wetsand or spend the rest of my natural life working on it. I have now sanded with 600 grit, half through redoing it with 800 (noticeably smoother but still a lot of scratches), and will follow this step with 1000 grit. My questions--(1) can I jump from 1000 grit to heavy duty polishing compound? (compounding after the 600 leaves a red stain in the scratches I found out). (2)Somewhat related, there are multiple very smooth and shiny patches on both sides of the hull which are a creamy yellow color and localized such that I think they are where fenders may have ridden while the PO had the boat in a slip all summer. These don't sand out with reasonable effort, although they have faded some over the winter on the trailer. Any suggestions on how to remove these spots?

Richard Templeton
'86 C-25 TR/SK Sail# 5335 "Skybird52"
Hawley,TX

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jerlim
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Response Posted - 03/13/2011 : 10:08:51

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by skybird
 there are multiple very smooth and shiny patches on both sides of the hull which are a creamy yellow color and localized such that I think they are where fenders may have ridden while the PO had the boat in a slip all summer. These don't sand out with reasonable effort, although they have faded some over the winter on the trailer. Any suggestions on how to remove these spots?

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Those shiny spots are areas where the oxidation has been worn away by the fenders, the goal is to get the rest to look like that...

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skybird
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Response Posted - 03/13/2011 : 10:53:51

Jerry, is the original color the cream color in those spots? I had a Gulf Coast 21 when I was in college and the deck on it was a similar color. It would be nice if it was, but I thought they were all white??

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pastmember
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Response Posted - 03/13/2011 : 14:22:36

Since you read a lot, what made you decide to sand your hull? Softscrub is plenty abrasive unless you are taking scratches out and personally I would leave them in. In my experience the waxers are waxing for reasons other than getting a shiny hull. By 86 I think the hulls may have been all white but they had several colors in earlier years.

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skybird
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Response Posted - 03/13/2011 : 15:13:38

I tried starting with compound and Softscrub and could see no results at all after several hours of work. I now would admit I probably should not have gone as coarse as 600. There was significant scratching and I repaired some hull rash which required sanding anyway, so I decided to do all from waterline to rub rail. All I want is for it to look new

. Is that too much to ask from a 25 yr old hull

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GaryB
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Response Posted - 03/13/2011 : 15:52:00

I'd go to 1200, then 1600, and finally 2000 grit. It should be very shiny by the time you get through with the 2000 grit. I had a small area on my SeaRay that oxidized and followed the above steps. It was so shiny I just put wax on it when I was done.

We've had alot of Northers this year with high winds and my fenders have rubbed the gelcoat as you mentioned. I also now have the slightly creamy colored areas where they were hanging and am hoping they can be removed fairly easy. I'm a little worried though as I've seen other 25's with this issue and have never seen them completely removed.

Let us know how your efforts turn out whichever way you go.

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WesAllen
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Response Posted - 03/13/2011 : 17:36:13

I thought that mine was white also until I started rubbing it out with an agressive compound. It now shines very nicely and it is creamy looking not white. Alas now I have to do the deck to make it match. This I suspect will be much harder to do with a machine.

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OJ
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Response Posted - 03/13/2011 : 18:31:03

Richard,

I spent considerable time and money trying different products and techniques to achieve what I considered mediocre results. Then someone here posted the following link. It should answer all of your questions, including the issue of stains:

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/52772-tips-compound-polish-wax.html

I was able to achieve this:

Edited by - OJ on 03/13/2011 18:44:24

GaryB
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Response Posted - 03/13/2011 : 19:17:49

OJ,

Do you have any "Before" pictures?

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skybird
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Response Posted - 03/13/2011 : 19:23:29

I have read through that several times and you have the kind of result I am looking for. I want to do it right once and then have the discipline to maintain it. Thanks!

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OJ
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Response Posted - 03/13/2011 : 19:45:17

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by skybird
 I have read through that several times and you have the kind of result I am looking for. I want to do it right once and then have the discipline to maintain it. Thanks!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Richard, I did alter one or two things from the article. I tried the foam pads and it was like taking a step backwards. I went with Presta's "Green" wool polishing pad for the glazing phase.

It's important to understand that you use 3 different grades of wool pads for the 3 different grits of compounds.

Edited by - OJ on 03/13/2011 19:47:29

OJ
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Response Posted - 03/13/2011 : 19:59:07

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by GaryB
 OJ,

Do you have any "Before" pictures?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Notice how oxidized the cove and boot stripe are.

Edited by - OJ on 03/13/2011 20:01:10

skybird
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Response Posted - 03/13/2011 : 20:20:32

OJ, the before picture looks VERY familiar! Where did you find the multiple grades of pads--body shop supplier?

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GaryB
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Response Posted - 03/14/2011 : 02:31:16

OJ,

Looks just like Andiamo does now. Glad to know it can still look like the "After" photo. What year model is your boat?

I swear your wing looks wider than mine.

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OJ
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Response Posted - 03/14/2011 : 02:53:41

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by GaryB
 OJ,

Looks just like Andiamo does now. Glad to know it can still look like the "After" photo. What year model is your boat?

I swear your wing looks wider than mine.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

1989

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OJ
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Response Posted - 03/14/2011 : 03:09:53

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by skybird
 OJ, the before picture looks VERY familiar! Where did you find the multiple grades of pads--body shop supplier?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">At the time - Fox Run Tools had the best prices + free shipping for orders exceeding a $100 - I think.

I bought the 3 grades of Presta compounds and the 3M compounding and polishing pads from them.

http://www.foxruntools.com/

As for the Green pad used for the glazing compound - that is made by Presta and I acquired that through a local Presta dealer.

http://www.prestaproducts.com/Green_Blended_Wool_Light_Cutting_Pad-details.aspx

I used wool pads for each phase - but understand there are 3 different grades of pads!

With the possible exception of the foam pads (verses the wool pads) I cannot over emphasize the importance of following the directions in the thread written by MaineSail on Sailnet. The slightest digression results in noticeably different outcomes. He and his followers (one of those being me) have tried several variations with mixed (and usually less desirable) results.

If you skimp on the polisher - you will get less desirable results.

3 different compounds and 3 different pads . . .

Edited by - OJ on 03/14/2011 06:04:33

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