Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Well I may very well be doing things out of sequence here so humor me a little please.
I will be removing existing furler tomorrow as it has been sold.
I have to assume the existing forestay was made a wee-bit short as the previous owner had added a shackle on the backstay and I had to add a 2" D-shackle under the drum to reach the stemhead.
The length of the aft stay matches Catalina's spec - so I will be removing the above mentioned shackle - and use it as my baseline to measure for the new forestay for the new furler.
(1) I have a Harken 6-to-1 mainsheet system to raise the mast.
(2) Kevin from CD said I should not raise the mast with the tackle attached to the furler stay as I will bend the extrusions - which considering their cost I have to respect this advice.
(3) So if I don't use the furler stay to raise the mast - is it safe to attach the tackle only to the halyard?
(4) Any suggestions on what type of wire to use temporarily to measure for the new forestay? I need to supply the rigger an eye-to-eye measurement.
I assume you normally connect the bottom of the tackle to the stemhead fitting.
I have a Harken furler and I've raised the mast both ways, using the halyard and the furler. When using a halyard though, you then have the added task of keeping track of the furler.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by OJ</i> <br /> I assume you normally connect the bottom of the tackle to the stemhead fitting.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
If you aren't using an A-frame and connecting the halyard/forestay/mainsheet to the stem fitting, keep in mind when dropping the mast, as the mast gets to around 1/3 of the way down, the halyard/forestay/mainsheet starts losing its ability to hold it up, resulting in the mast falling like a cut tree. Learned that one the hard way!
I raised mine using a gin pole stabilized with cordage and the jib halyard . Furler extrusions and forestay I carefully guided into position as the mast reached the last 15 degrees to vertical. By then the upper shrouds have good control of the mast and 1 person can guide to the stemhead easily.
I just dropped my mast the other day, and I now remember the two benefits of the A-frame. One is the leverage above the deck to hold the mast up after it has been lowered half-way down. I stopped at that point for a moment and made sure everything was ok. The second is the lateral stability provided by the A-frame that keeps the mast from falling to one side or the other off the boat. When I stopped the mast half way down, it was swinging in the light breeze to port and starboard on its A-frame support. Then I could lower it slowly the rest of the way and guide it easily with one hand onto the 8' high crutch I had attached to the rudder gudgeons and stern rail.
All this could be aided by 2 more crew to catch the mast as it is lowered, first one crew member to slow the descent, and then both crew members guiding it to its nearly horizontal resting place.
Dropping the mast single-handed is much easier and safer, in my opinion, with an A-frame.
Similar advantages when raising the mast back into position.
By the way, my A-frame is simply 2 twelve foot 2 x 4's with 3/4" holes in each end for the 6" carriage bolt top connection and the nylon cord attachments to the bases of the port and starboard upper shrouds.
Plenty sturdy, easy to make, and cost-effective for its rare use. Can't be stowed aboard, though.
JohnP, how do you attach the A-frame to the upper shroud attachment bases? I'm guessing you run the cord through the outer attachment point since you have the STD rig and use the inner holes for your upper shroud? I've got the TR and use the outer holes for the shrouds.
If you decide to use an a-frame to raise your mast, I discovered a good way to control the furler when raising and lowering the mast. Loosely attach a length of line between the a-frame legs a little more than 1/2 way up from the bottom of the frame. Cradle the furler on this line. The furler will slide forward (or back) and remain centered on the boat and easily controlled as the mast is being raised or lowered. This method works very well in conjunction with a remote control power winch I use to raise and lower the mast. I generally stand at the stem and push a button to do the job. Slick!
My 1978 C-25 has chainplates for the upper shrouds each with an eye used for the turnbuckle clevis pin and with an unused eye. Here's the picture from the Parts Catalog:
I use the extra eyes on port and starboard to attach the A-frame bases with some good nylon cord.
p.s., Just re-read your post - You could use the inner holes similarly for this short-term procedure. I think there would be no problem having the cord pulled across the chainplate for the few minutes the mast is being lowered or raised.
That's what I figured. Apparently, the double eye deck chainplates are there because of the tall rig option. As I wrote previously, with the tall rig, I use the outer holes for the upper shroud connections. I also have a 2x4 A-frame, but have attached it to the forward lower deck thru-bolts since they were available. I'll try the uppers next time and see if it works better; it may be a while.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by aeckhart</i> <br />If you decide to use an a-frame to raise your mast, I discovered a good way to control the furler when raising and lowering the mast. Loosely attach a length of line between the a-frame legs a little more than 1/2 way up from the bottom of the frame. Cradle the furler on this line. The furler will slide forward (or back) and remain centered on the boat and easily controlled as the mast is being raised or lowered. This method works very well in conjunction with a remote control power winch I use to raise and lower the mast. I generally stand at the stem and push a button to do the job. Slick! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Al,
Sounds like a great idea. What amke and model winch do you use and how and where do you attach it?
It works absolutely flawlessly. I bought mine on sale from Overtons. One of two I believe they sell. It makes a lot of sense to be able to raise your mast without physical effort, be able to stop at any time to check for standing rigging or lines that may be snagged, then walk back and continue to raise the mast. If you use an A-frame and add the line I mentioned above you have complete control over your furler, avoiding bends and kinks, while raising the mast.
Initially I mounted it where the hand winch was mounted on the trailer. The angle to the A-frame wasn't the best so I've fabricated a removable mount on the side rails on my truck and anchored it in the cargo stake holes. I use one of my boat batteries to power the winch.
I just received an email notice from Harbor Freight that they have a 12 volt 3000 lb ORV winch with remote control on sale for $59.99. It's painted camoflage but, it's a geat deal for the purpose.
At these prices I'm surprised that folks with "swingers" haven't thought of using them to raise and lower their keels. Makes a lot of sense, especially if you are a single hander.
It works absolutely flawlessly. I bought mine on sale from Overtons. One of two I believe they sell. It makes a lot of sense to be able to raise your mast without physical effort, be able to stop at any time to check for standing rigging or lines that may be snagged, then walk back and continue to raise the mast. If you use an A-frame and add the line I mentioned above you have complete control over your furler, avoiding bends and kinks, while raising the mast.
Initially I mounted it where the hand winch was mounted on the trailer. The angle to the A-frame wasn't the best so I've fabricated a removable mount on the side rails on my truck and anchored it in the cargo stake holes. I use one of my boat batteries to power the winch.
I just received an email notice from Harbor Freight that they have a 12 volt 3000 lb ORV winch with remote control on sale for $59.99. It's painted camoflage but, it's a geat deal for the purpose.
At these prices I'm surprised that folks with "swingers" haven't thought of using them to raise and lower their keels. Makes a lot of sense, especially if you are a single hander. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Do you mount it at the stem or in the cockpit and lead it up through a block at the stem?
Thinking out loud, would it work to mount a remote control electric winch to a short section of 1x6 board, run it off the boat's battery, attach a loop of 3/8" line to the back of the board and place the line over one of the genoa or cabintop winches to anchor the winch, and use that set-up to raise the mast. Or make the board long enough to cut a hole large enough to slip the board over the winch? The winch line would run forward through a block at the bow up to the A-frame. Am I crazy?
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.