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Jan Briede
Navigator

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USA
162 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/20/2011 : 18:24:41

Well, I built an A-frame and brought the mast down. It went much better than expected, with the exception of the final step of getting the bolt out of the base of the mast, that took some time. Furthermore, I finally got to measure my mast and it is 30 feet long (tall). The windex is shot and the anchor light is gone (the previous owner played it too close when going under a bridge). Questions I have:
1. What is the best way to secure the mast to the mast plate? Do you all use a bolt with thread, or one with some kind of cotter pin on the back?
2. The mast is 30 feet tall, I guess that means I have a tall rig, is that correct?
3. I need to replace the halyards, would it be better to retrofit them with the whole rope ones that lead to the cockpit?
4. What do you all recommend as anchor light? Do we need to install a streaming light? There is no steaming light now.
5. My spreaders look fine, but the spreader boot is a piece of canvass tight with a strap. Is this ok or do you all recommend I replace it.
I guess since it is down, I will also replace the wiring harness. There goes my savings account!
Thanks for the feedback.
Jan

Jan Briede
Beagle
1979 TR #1242 FK
L-Dinette
Yorktown, VA
Blog -- http://vanomad.blogspot.com/

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 03/20/2011 : 19:10:42

1. We use a standard bolt with washer adn wingnuts. To get it off next time, try sittingon teh mast as close to teh step as possible. It takes teh tension off the bolt, and it should slide right out. Getting things lined up to put it back in is far harder than taking it out.

2. Sounds right.

3. Most folks go to all rope when th eopportunity presents itself. This also means replacing teh sheaves at the top of teh mast. For the cadillac of systems you could go to internal halyards.

4. I replaced my anchor light last year with a Bebe Owl http://www.bebi-electronics.com/owl.html . I haven't gotten it to work since, but I also dropped the light in the water, and boogered up the masthead electronics that day. I think I either have polarity reversed or no current on that wire now. The lights themselves are getting rave reviews on cruising sites.

5. My spreader boots are white rubber. They are $15. Cheap and look pretty. I'd replace them, but it isn't a must-do unless you need to remove the old ones to inspect the shrouds, or are concerned about tearing a sail on teh old boots.

6. Wiring harness is up to you. I would test it then decide. I am of the if it ain broke, don't fix it school. If it is broke you have to decide whether you need the lights that aren't coming on. When our anchor light stopped wprking we found a way to improvise with a safety light in a zip-lock hoisted up on a halyard. a Steaming light is harder to improvise. A deck light is totally optional.

Edited by - Prospector on 03/20/2011 19:14:33

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 03/20/2011 : 19:22:35

I've been using a 4" stainless steel bolt, nut and washer. This year, I'm thinking I'll try one of [url="http://www.jergensinc.com/site/product_detail.aspx?group_no=1359"]these[/url].

The company is in my hometown so I think I'll drop by and take a look.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 03/20/2011 : 19:28:32

1. What is the best way to secure the mast to the mast plate? Do you all use a bolt with thread, or one with some kind of cotter pin on the back?

The C25 came with 3/8" bolt with a wing nut for the mast step pivot.

2. The mast is 30 feet tall, I guess that means I have a tall rig, is that correct?

Yes. The standard rig mast is 28'.

3. I need to replace the halyards, would it be better to retrofit them with the whole rope ones that lead to the cockpit?

If you have the original wire rope halyards, lose them. You may need to replace the masthead sheaves when converting to all rope halyards. Whether or not to lead them to the cockpit is a personal preference. I prefer raising the main from the mast.

4. What do you all recommend as anchor light? Do we need to install a streaming light? There is no steaming light now.

Again, personal preference as to what kind of anchor light and steaming light you use.

5. My spreaders look fine, but the spreader boot is a piece of canvas tight with a strap. Is this ok or do you all recommend I replace it.

Again, personal preference on replacing the boots. Some are leather ans some are made of rubber.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 03/20/2011 : 20:10:39

Pearl had fastpins for many connections, but I began to question their reliability when one popped out of the tiller-rudder joint. I totally lost interest in them when another popped out of the boom-gooseneck while going to windward in a fresh breeze. They were both in good condition with solid detent springs. I have a special bolt and use lock washers and hex nuts - one as a jam nut.

Edited by - on

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.