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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
It's only $5.98 and uses 4 AA batteries in series. That only works out to 6 volts, but I decided to wire it up to 12v. I'm pretty sure LED's can handle quite a bit more voltage.
I cut 3 wires and stuck them in where the batteries should go as jumpers. Drilled two small holes through the side of the fixture into the last battery slot. Then pulled out two lead wires for + and - connections like so:
I was afraid it would be dim and you'd see individual LED's shining through, but none of which is true. It's bright, and the lens seems to give almost perfect light distribution. You can't tell where the LED's are inside while it's on.
This took me less than 30 minutes to do. Granted, it's not "marine grade", but for 6 bucks.... I'll probably go back and get 2 more. So, I'll replace the galley and 2 V-berth lights with these for under $18.
1989 C-25 TR/WK #5894 Miss Behavin' Sittin' in LCYC on Canyon Lake, Texas
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jerlim</i> <br />I do know from dealing w/ the large outdoor street displays that there is an issue w/ overdriving the led and dramatically reducing their life span... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> That is true. The more voltage you put to an LED, the less life it has. This fixture claims 100,000hrs life expectancy. Typically a 12v powered LED will claim 50,000hrs, so it makes since. I've had it on for 3hrs now. lol
You just won the genius idea of the year award in my opinion. I wonder what the effect of the increased voltage will be. You can do three lights for less than the price of one "marine" fixture!
Maybe you should see how many orders you can get, and then buy some in bulk! 50,000 hours (~2000 weekends = ~80 seasons) are <i>probably</i> enough for me.
I agree with the wire gauge issue -- #16 gauge will more than handle the current. And it's cheap. Good thinking shorting out the other battery compartments - simple but effective. One issue is corrosion. The wires connected to the battery terminals produce 6 additional locations for potential bad connections. You may be able to open the fixture and determine exactly which terminals to use for plus and minus supply leads, and you could leave the others open.
For voltage regulation, you've got a couple of options: 1. You could run two fixtures in series. Two 6 volt fixtures strung in line will cut the voltage in half in each fixture. Connect the battery plus wire to the plus terminal on fixture 1, connect the minus wire from the minus terminal on fixture 1 and connect the other end to the plus side of fixture 2, then on the minus side of the fixture 2, run the wire back to the negative battery terminal.
2. Since a LED lamp may use 100 mA, if you want to drop 6 volts, you need a 56 ohm resistor in series with the fixture. You'd need about a 1W resistor.
I prefer the Two-Fer approach, since all the battery power is used for lighting. Using a resistor to dissipate electricity as heat is wasteful, I'd rather use it for light.
Nice work! How many LED's does the unit contain? How does it look in the boat cabin?
Here's another LED application: For a short time 2 1/2 years ago, Lowes had in stock some 2 1/2" wide, 3-LED, stick-on lights. You can switch on 1, or 2, or 3 LED's, and these little lights take 3 AAA batteries. I bought 6 of them and have added them to my cabin ceiling as accent lights. They brighten up the place. $7 each at the time, but not found in the store since, to my knowledge!
If it weren't going to snow around the Chesapeake Bay this weekend I'd be working on my electrical system.
First the light from the cheap leds is a blue-white, and tires the eyes quickly whether reading or playing cards. The cheapy (pushbutton) LED was usually quickly shut off in favour of the incandescents, an oil lamp, or butane lantern.
Second, we found that the cheap LED dimmed, or lost candlepower through the season. By the end of the year, I was wishing I hadn't made the change.
That fixture is now running one of the dealextreme LEDs (more on that below).
On some of our other fixtures we bought LED replacements for car dome lights from dealextreme.com and were happier with them, however the colour of the light is still not as warm as the incandescents. From what I have seen recently, LEDs are now available in warmer colours so you may be able to find the right colour with a little hunting.
If you are smart about how you wire these into the existing fixture, you can have the option to revert back to the incandescent bulb.
So far, it's still on, and running on my "dead" 12v West Marine battery. The battery still had 12v's but doesn't last long powering things.
I plan to just use double-sided 3m tape to stick them on the ceiling. It does have that screw slot for mounting, but I hate making holes in the boat.
I was gonna make another post and wait until I had pics of them installed, but I do have plans for the lights above the settees. I bought a 4 foot and 3 foot LED strip light that is meant for under car lighting. They are very white LED's and are seperated every 1", so 48 LED's for a 48" strip. They are fully encased in silicone and are meant for exterior under-car applications, so they should hold up very well in marine applications. They are also very flexible so that they can conform to the curve of the boat. They are about 1/2" wide by 1/2" deep so they should be hidden from direct view. I'm hoping they will act as wall-washers above the seats.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Prospector</i> <br />We did somethign very similar and had issues.
First the light from the cheap leds is a blue-white, and tires the eyes quickly whether reading or playing cards. The cheapy (pushbutton) LED was usually quickly shut off in favour of the incandescents, an oil lamp, or butane lantern.
Second, we found that the cheap LED dimmed, or lost candlepower through the season. By the end of the year, I was wishing I hadn't made the change.
That fixture is now running one of the dealextreme LEDs (more on that below).
On some of our other fixtures we bought LED replacements for car dome lights from dealextreme.com and were happier with them, however the colour of the light is still not as warm as the incandescents. From what I have seen recently, LEDs are now available in warmer colours so you may be able to find the right colour with a little hunting.
If you are smart about how you wire these into the existing fixture, you can have the option to revert back to the incandescent bulb.
See this thread: http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?whichpage=1&TOPIC_ID=19424& for details and sources. IIRC, the dealextreme LEDs are cheaper than your pushbutton LEDs. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Either way, I don't plan to go back to the factory housings since they are yellow and ugly. If these don't work out, then I'll probably go to a more expensive fixture. I'll definately keep everyone posted about the longevity of them and if they seem to fade over time.
Great ideas, Jonathan. I took the lazy route and bought a 3-pack of the stick-on LED lights ($10 plus batteries) that use AAA batteries and placed them strategically around the boat to supplement the house lights; one just inside the main hatch attached to the rear of the poptop for entering the boat after dark, one in the galley area in the corner where some have put a paper towel holder, and one in the head. I can use these to get around in the boat easily without using the house lights, or until I can get to the panel and turn on the house lights.
What about using hoop & loop patches to attach the round lights to the ceiling?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">or until I can get to the panel and turn on the house lights<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I did the same thing, mounted the "pucks" with velcro around the boat. It is very nice to be able to turn the lights on, without having to go to the panel first.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Davy J</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">or until I can get to the panel and turn on the house lights<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I did the same thing, mounted the "pucks" with velcro around the boat. It is very nice to be able to turn the lights on, without having to go to the panel first. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I stuck one up under the cockpit seat so that it shines down into the storage (dumpster) locker.
There are mini pucks that fit nicely into the coaming boxes as well. Good enough to light up the cockpit while underway without killing your night vision entirely. (only mostly)
For the cockpit (and raft-ups, add'l anchor light, etc.) I bought 2 solar LED garden lanterns with amber lenses, discarded the curved post mounts, and secured them with twist ties to each side of the stern pulpit. Works quite nicely.
Hey david, another, slightly more nautical approach is to drill a pair of holes through the hood on those, and put a string you can hang it from across there with a stopper knot in each end. Now you can hang the lights off the lifelines or boom.
I use a pivoting stick-on LED bar above the cooler and a puck at the quarterberth. It makes it easy to turn on a light when I come aboard at night and find the appropriate switches for house lighting and helps find things in the cooler. I intended to hardwire them, but the original batteries are still going strong after 3 years.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.