Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I found a 2-piece plastic mount with two bolts and a SS eye-strap, specifically for clamping something like a block to the stanchion, and attached a very small swivel block to the eye-strap. (It's a low-load application.) That allowed me to adjust the height of the block to get a perfect lead angle to the furler drum.
Sorry--I can't find the mount on the WM site right now...
To provide the proper lead angle in to my drum, my pulpit fairlead is mounted about as low as it can go on the pulpit leg, and with the type of fairlead I use, the furling line leads from fairly close to the leg base. If I used either of the two other set ups mentioned, my lead angle might end up a bit higher than it should be as the loose block swings upwards.
Yup--mine was close to the bottom of the stanchion. But a fraction of an inch can make a big difference in getting an even wrap on the drum. You want the angle to be as close to perpendicular as possible. So a mount that can be moved to any position on the pulpit stanchion is very useful.
Your picture illustrates my point exactly. With my fairlead, the line exits about the height of your split ring. Using a block, for me anyway, would place the line too high.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.