Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Others on this forum may have a better idea but I just bought an extra plug/socket and made an extension cable. My deck plug is a 4 prong plug/socket. I bought an extra one, made sure the wiring was correct, and simply created an extension cord. While the mast is down I can plug one end into the deck plug on the cabin top and the other end plugs into the plug at the bottom of the mast.
It may be a bit expensive but not only can I easily test "all" the mast lights while the mast is down, but I have a spare plug/socket if I need one in a pinch.
You can always use pieces of wire and alligator clips. You can use a piece of wire large enough to snug into the socket (without damaging it). Or... find a pin that fits the socket.
You can always use pieces of wire and alligator clips. You can use a piece of wire large enough to snug into the socket (without damaging it). Or... find a pin that fits the socket.
Again, others may have a better idea.
Good Luck. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I thought a bit more about my issue yesterday and I think my actual question is, how do I go about troubleshooting from the lights on down to the mast end of the deck connector?
I have power at the deck, good bulbs (they were not actually burned out) but no lights last fall when the mast was up.
Does anyone know which pin is which on a three prong plug? (two of the same size, one larger). I have an anchor light and a combo deck/steaming light (the latter installed by the PO, on a single "spreader" switch which limits the utility of the deck light. This isn't super desirable in and of itself but I would prefer to troubleshoot the three prong existing connection before re-engineering things. Can the mast end of the connector be readily disassembled?
I would first start out by checking the light fixtures and their connections. If the fixtures are brittle or corroded, then change them out and see if that fixes your issue. Corrosion could lead to a poor wire connection. Also check the deck plug's connections to the wire.
Since your PO did some lighting modifications, it may not match the original wiring diagram. The bigger of the three prongs should be the common ground. If the bulbs are good and you suspect an open in the circuit somewhere, use a multimeter to check resistance of each leg. If both sets of lights are not working, odds are there's an open in the common ground.
I had the same issue last year. I was able to solve it using a voltage muli-meter (12 bucks on amazon) and a boat battery wired with lamp cord and alligator clips. Slide back the upper casing on the male end of the plug from the base of the mast wire, then connect the battery to the wires in order to test each fixture. (get the wiring diagram from this site). Even if the light does not turn on, be sure to test the voltage at the wires entering the light fixture. You wont get a full 12 volts as the wires are long and old, but I was able to get enough volts to power the new LED's that I bought for the fixtures (my fixtures were loose and corroded, I cleaned and tightened them and it did the trick). If you have a helper to be at the other end of the mast you can narrow down the culprit pretty quickly. If you are not getting volts at the fixture, the wires are shot.
If you have a three socket plug and want to figure out which connection is which, do the following with a voltmeter. Turn on the anchor and steaming lights. Set the voltmeter to 20 volts. Connect the red to terminal 1 and the black to terminal 2. If you measure 0 volts, these are both the positive 12 volt connections. One is anchor, the other is steaming.
Next connect the red to terminal 1 and the black to terminal 3. You should measure 12 volts. Switch off the anchor light first. If it remains at 12 volts, the #1 is the steaming light. If it goes to 0 volts, it is the anchor light.
Next, turn on the anchor light and turn off the steaming light. The voltage between 2 and 3 ought to be 12 volts. Switch off the anchor light and switch on the steaming light, and it should read 0 volts.
Without knowing which is which, you can determine which connection is controlled by which switch using this approach.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Voyager</i> <br />If you have a three socket plug and want to figure out which connection is which, do the following with a voltmeter. Turn on the anchor and steaming lights. Set the voltmeter to 20 volts. Connect the red to terminal 1 and the black to terminal 2. If you measure 0 volts, these are both the positive 12 volt connections. One is anchor, the other is steaming.
Next connect the red to terminal 1 and the black to terminal 3. You should measure 12 volts. Switch off the anchor light first. If it remains at 12 volts, the #1 is the steaming light. If it goes to 0 volts, it is the anchor light.
Next, turn on the anchor light and turn off the steaming light. The voltage between 2 and 3 ought to be 12 volts. Switch off the anchor light and switch on the steaming light, and it should read 0 volts.
Without knowing which is which, you can determine which connection is controlled by which switch using this approach. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Thanks, using your advice I was able to isolate the problem on the mast end of the deck connection. Easy fix :)
Do you have 3 or 4 wires in the mast? I am curious because I went through the same testing and fiddling as you, and then discovered I had 4-wires but one was tucked up inside the mast. It was easy-peasy to run a 4th wire and replace the deck plug to get all the lights on the mast running. Something you may want to consider if your mast is already down.
I found that the deck plug is exactly over the aft bulkhed, but that by angling a drill forward, I got a hole to sneak a wire through right at the edge of the bulkhead. Running it from there to the panel was a breeze, and there was already a switch waiting for it on the panel. I now have a steaming light!
ETA - If you put on any LED lights, you will have to be sure you wire them with the proper polarity or they won't light up. We ran into this with our anchor light. Using the method "Voyager" outlined above, pay attention to whether the volts are positive or negative to be sure your polarity is right before you solder the leads.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.