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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I just got my mast gate from CD today. It says in the instructions that I may need to trim the rods to fit the opening in the mast. What tools do I need to take? File, sander, saw? Anybody have to do this when installing theirs?
Last year I trimmed my new mast gate using a grindstone wheel on my drill. To keep the parts from bouncing overboard I used duct tape and tied them to my wrist with string during the 10 or so gradual adjustments.
I really like having my doused mainsail stowed down on the mast and also the improved sail shape at the tack.
Can I ask how long it took you guys? Is this a few minute thing or an hour and a soaked t-shirt thing? I'm going to try to buy a dremel that I can attach to my batttery-powered drill.
You may have to trim a lot of what CD sent you. I don't think any two slots that are cut into the mast are the same. Some are cut on both sides of the track and some on only one side like mine was so I only needed one gate. I Cut mine on a table saw then final adjustments with a file. I also had to drill one hole. The rods were totally cut off to fit in my opening. You can also file the opening in the mast to square it up. It's a fabricating project but well worth it. Big improvement.
Interesting differences over the years of C25 production.
The slot on my 1978 era mast was formed on both sides and were quite tall, so that I had to trim off perhaps 1/4" from the top and the bottom of the mast gate extension rods on each side.
A tip - if you race and you will be swapping out your sails regularly, buy a spare set of screws for the mast gate, stick them to a piece of duct tape, and tape it to the bottom of the mast. I go through about 3 screws per season (but I am clumsy). You can get by with less than 4 screws holding things in place, but eventually you are out of luck.
Drilling and tapping holes took longer than trimming in my case. Like others said, a coarse metal file does quick work. You may want to have some fine sandpaper around to smooth things out when you are done.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Interesting differences over the years of C25 production.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Like I stated above, I don't think any two are alike. I doubt they even use a jig to cut the slot. Probably just left up to who ever happens to be doing the cutting on that particular day or year. I would even guess that they are all different heights above the boom too.
I'd suggest either a vice grip, c-clamp, or best a portable vice to lock down the base piece while you work on it. You'll be doing basic machining work with a hacksaw, files, drills, grindstone/drills etc...all manor of metal shaping tools. Safely securing the stock is a wise first step.
In stead of drilling and tapping the holes, I drilled pilot holes and then used self tapping sheet metal screws..have had the same 4 screws for 6 years...no need for tapping tools.
FYI, CD sends regular and tapping drill bits as part of the package. The hard part for me was filing the ends down- I wore my sailing gloves to protect my hands while doing this.
Found out the hard way at the end of last year the mast gates do not float. Ordered a new set and found that the new gate set is drilled slightly different from the one lost to neptune.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.