Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Got a surprise call @ 4:30 the other day that I was in the sling and could I come down and do my keel cable, tube, and ball. I had purchased this boat last August so I had decide to replace all the keel components for some piece of mind. AM I GLAD I DID. They lifted me up and I replaced the cable then went down below to do the rest. The volcano tube literally came apart and crumbled in my hands as I was trying to pull it off. The turning ball was completely seized and had quite the large groove worn into it. All in all the job took about an hour and a half all by myself and the kit was about $130.00 w/shipping from Catalina Direct. I hate thinking what could have happened if the tube let go or if the cable wore through due to the ball not turning. I want to thank all the people on this awesome site. You all advised me on how to do it and knowing exactly what to expect made the job much easier. Big shout out to everyone that gave me advice and a warning to all swinger owners out there that haven't already, maybe you should check your hardware and make sure it's in working orderĀ
Kevin (1984 C25 Standard Rig, Swing Keel, Traditional Interior)
Previous owner of my boat found out what happens when you don't do this maintenance. The tube broke off and left about a 2 - 3 inch hole in the bottom of the boat. He was able to get the boat into the marina where they were able to provide him with some real pumps while the readied the travel lift. If he had been sailing single hand, the boat may have sunk.
So I made my purchase of a 1985 swing keel in pretty decent shape and attempted to move out of the slip the boat was purchased from. All lines are free and motor in reverse and not moving. An attempt to bring the keel up, if needed, results in a cable snap and resulting crash of the 1500 LB keel, no immediate damage is noticed. Over the next five days and realization that the bilges are filling up gives rise to purchase of 500 GPH auto bilge pump in the larger forward bilge and more immediate plans to get the boat on the hard as was expected for keel inspection and bottom job. So what now, how do you get the keel raised again? Panic!!! Buy lot's of misc. junk, build a new cable with dogs attached and new loop? Rent SCUBA gear?
SOLUTION: Use 9 gauge galvanized steel wire threaded through the volcano to attach to keel and keel winch, I did it blind folded with a couple of friends on the boat and me down below, about 12 deep breaths and a mask, my Tevas to balance on the bottom of the boat as I was triple wrapping and doubling up the wire over under and through the clevis that was left on the keel, yes the cable broke above the fork in what I have read is a very common area for a cable break.
I now have Bearded Lady on the hard out of harms way and can thank many of my new friends at the Buccaneer Yacht Club Mobile, AL for their help and support. I do have damage from the keel drop that is fixable and now my journey begins.....
I will look to this and other valuable forums/blogs for future assistance and had to share my experience knowing that some other person may agonize as I did over this same event, but may also be relieved as there is a solution, one that I had not read about or thought of...
Michael, congratulations on your purchase and sorry you had to go through a cable break. Next time we're in Mobile (wife is from there) I'll let you know and maybe we can get together. Good luck with the repairs. Been there, done that with ours. My "event" was due to coming too close to a buoy during a race, caught the keel on the buoy anchor cable, keel lifted up and came back down hard. Cracked the keel trunk at the rear edge causing a slow leak. The fiberglass buy was able to do the repairs from inside the boat, thankfully.
Minor point of detail...the steel of the keel lifting cable is harder than the bronze of the turning ball...which is why the ball becomes grooved when it seizes and the cable cuts through it...don't know about the pin though...
I have seen the keel lifted after the cable breaks by walking a line from the front of the boat to the back and slowly lifting the keel by using the winches in the cockpit. You need to protect the side of the boat so the rope does not damage the fiberglass. You can raise the keel just enough so that you can control the keel swing. If your slip is only 3 feet deep, you may still be in trouble. But it might be enough. Replace the cable and ball atleast every 3 years and you have some peace of mind.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.