Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Finally got around to installing the 2nd pair of XAS Clutches and double stacked cheek blocks in prep for our soon to arrive boomkicker (backordered parts... Japan????)
Previously the Main Halyard was on the Stbd clutch and the #1 Reef (single line for now) on the port clutch.
I'm considering the following: .. Port Outside: Vang .. Port Inside: Outhaul .. Stbd Outside: Reef #1 .. Stbd Inside: Main Halyard.
My current thinking is that the Main is always changed when reefing, so putting those on the same side for ease.
If I do shift over to 2 line reefing, then I'll probably move the vang to a cam cleat and put the 2nd reefing line in the Port Outside clutch.
Do you guys see any issues with this concept?
I plan to leave the topping lift in place so that it eases the task of installing the boomkicker each trip.
The outhaul currently is in boom, jam cleat on port side of boom. I hope to pull that out at the fwd end of the boom then down, should I install a cheek block on the mast to keep the line pointing fwd as it exits the boom?
I recently added 2 triple XAS clutches with 2 4-way deck organizers and 3 additional blocks to each side at the base of the mast, giving us a total of 8 lines led to the cockpit. This was so we could control both 2-line reefs, both halyards, the outhaul and haylard style topping lift from the cockpit. I did not find it necessary to use one of the clutches for the boomvang, since I can easily reach it from the cockpit. The 3 lines in the boom are used by the outhaul and 2 clew lines for reefs 1 and 2 (from factory). They exit the front of the boom and run fair to blocks at the base of the mast, then back to the deck organizers and clutches. Fortunately, the boat came from Catalina with the 3 internal boom lines long enough to run back to the cockpit. I did have to add 2 lines for the tack of each reef. They start on the mast just below the boom, run up through their reef point, then down to one of the blocks on the opposite side of the mast, throught the deck organizer to a clutch. They all work very well.
On your scenario, I would probably use the vang clutch for a second reef line. As suggested by Arlyn Stewart and others on this site, 2 line reefing works better on the C250 and reduces the risk of pulling out sail slugs.
My current project is adding a third clutch starboard. I'm changing out the single line reefing for a double so starboard I'll have main halyard and 2 lines for the first reef. To port I'll have a double clutch for the 2 lines for the second reef. The jib halyard is not used with the CDI furler so it will be secured on the mast. The outhaul is only used when I bend on the mainsail so I see no reason to lead it back to the cockpit. I've considered running the topping lift back to the cockpit, if I do I'll put it port with a third clutch. Vang is OK where it's at, I can reach it from the cockpit.
My boom only has 2 internal lines, outhaul and topping lift.
My reason for leading 'all' lines to the cockpit is to make it possible for Admiral Peggy to get to them (and of course reduce her anxiety when I reach out to the boom to make adjustments!)
We will be upgrading to the 2 line reefing. But not setting up for a 2nd reef. If the winds dictate a 2nd reef it will be all sails down time.
I hadn't planned on installing a second reef, figured it would be sails down when it got that bad but I've found that when the wind kicks up so also does the chop. When the chop kicks up then motoring is difficult because the prop won't stay in the water.
We were out sailing last Friday and the wind began gusting between 15 and 20 knots, so I tried sailing on the full 110 jib alone. It was my first time sailing on the jib alone, so I was surprised that my GPS showed at top speed of 5.1 knots. Most of the time we moved at 2.5 - 4.5 knots, depending on gust, with very little heel and a little bit of lee helm. Overall, the boat handeled very well on the jib alone. My wife commented that it was one of the more relaxing days we had sailing even with the heavier winds.
I am mentioning this because it is another option to "sails down time" as the wind picks up. Plus the jib is so easy to furl in or put away as needed.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Tradewind</i> <br />I hadn't planned on installing a second reef, figured it would be sails down when it got that bad but I've found that when the wind kicks up so also does the chop. When the chop kicks up then motoring is difficult because the prop won't stay in the water. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Same for me. I had assumed that in a heavy blow I would motor or sail on genny alone. But I had the same concern about motoring in heavy chop, and also developed concerns about excessive lee helm on genny alone in a heavy wind (even though the genoa is fine by itslef in moderate winds). So a 2nd reef in the mainsail could provide a balance against the genny's lee helm, or a replacement for it if lee helm is too much. In a bad weather situation I want as much redundancy as possible, so I quickly rigged a second reef.
All my reefs are single line, but I have added blocks at the clew end to reduce friction for both reefs. Here's a quick picture of how I routed the reef line outside the boom:
I have the same configuration, but with 2-line reefing.
Here's how I ran my lines: .. Port Outside: Reef Clew .. Port Inside: Reef Tack .. Stbd Outside: Vang .. Stbd Inside: Main Halyard
With 2-line reefing, I ran the reef tack from the gooseneck through the reef grommet, down through a turning block at the mast base, and through the double-cheek block. The reef clew line exits the boom to a turning block and through the double-cheek block. I don't use that little block on the mast that came with the jiffy reefing system.
I adjust the Outhaul at the dock, so I kept it on the boom. I hate drilling holes in the mast, so I don't recommend installing a cheek block on the mast for your outhaul. You should be able to have the outhaul exit the boom to a turning block then to your current double-stacked cheek blocks. Check where the lines exit the boom. There shouldn't be any sharp edges.
I also recommend using a permanent marker on the main halyard at the reef point. To reef, just drop the halyard to the mark then tighten the reef tack and reef clew.
Nearly done. Leaving topping lift and outhaul as original setup. New reef1 goes from tack shackle up through reef 1cringle in the luff, back down port side of sail and back through the tack shackle,down to block on aft edge of mastplate, then to deck organizer and clutch.
Reef clew and down haul is rigged from port side clutch to deck organizer and block at the Mast plate up to fwd end of boom, through boom to aft end, then fwd to block up to reef cringle down stbd side of sail, down and under boom to bail on the block.
Easy thanks to input here.
Thanks.
(And I got all three electrical connections re-worked and Butyl taped.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.