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Bottom Paint

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Adam
1st Mate

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USA
44 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/13/2011 : 18:42:11

I am getting ready to pull the boat out and start the process of applying a new bottom coat. I am assuming I will need a gallon of paint. Any suggestions on which, as there are literally hundreds to choose from. I am located in central Alabama and only sail in fresh water. Any help is much appreciated.

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2011 : 18:51:05

See page 53

http://www.yachtpaint.com/LiteratureCentre/boat-painting-guide-10-usa-eng.pdf

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2011 : 20:15:14

See what other locals use. The VC-17 crowd should swarm to this one.

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9089 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2011 : 20:21:55

Questions:

1. What's on there now?

2. Do you plan on leaving it on and over-coating? There are compatibility issues...

3. What kind of fouling are you concerned about--zebra mussels, or just slime and grass?

4. Will you be racing?

5. Will the boat stay in the water? All year?

These all bear on the answers...

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2011 : 20:30:13

It took me 1.5 gal. to apply 2 coats of Interlux Ultra-kote, a hard finish paint.

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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2011 : 20:49:17

Defender has a great price on Petit Hydrocoat. Hydrocoat is successful at our lake, it is on a lot of boats. ... assuming you are looking for an ablative paint.

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3495 Posts

Response Posted - 06/14/2011 : 03:06:45

There are a number of ways to limit the search as some have mentioned. The fact that you are always in freshwater means that you do not have to worry about barnacles but would benefit from the bottom paints that have anti-slime properties. The next thing has to do with whether you go with a hard paint which is better for racing or with a copolymer or ablative paint which is relatively soft but has multi-year properties. THese paints will come off on your finger to some degree. But have a benefit in that thru the years, the paint thickness will decrease leaving less buildup and little prep necessary when a re-application is finally necessary. Some of these multi-year paints may perform okay if you remove your boat each year but I believe most of them are better for boats left in the water all year round. So, checking the properties of each of these paints starting with anti-slime benefits and then working your way thru the other features will help narrow the choices.

Depending on what is already on the bottom will also effect just what preparation would be needed to switch to a different paint. Some paints are compatible and very little has to be done but the labels will indicate to some degree what their compatibility is to other paints or the mfrs website may have a chart that shows compatibility/preparation needs.

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klassi1
1st Mate

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88 Posts

Response Posted - 06/14/2011 : 06:26:21

Boat is pulled for a bottom job also. We are in a freshwater, low fouling lake, club race, and wanted a hard paint. Putting VC Offshore on.

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Adam
1st Mate

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USA
44 Posts

Response Posted - 06/14/2011 : 14:22:40

I have no idea what is on there now. I believe I am the first person to apply a new bottom coat on it so it is probably factory applied. The boat will be in and out of the water for the next few years. I do not want to redo this process on an annual basis and I will not be racing it. Hope this helps narrow it down.
thanks

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 06/14/2011 : 15:05:30

What model/year is the boat? Is there any blistering? Since you will not be racing her and don't want annual repainting, a good quality ablative paint, or hard finish like mine, may be your best alternative instead of VC17. Ablative can be applied over a hard finish, but hard cannot be applied over ablative. If your boat is an older C-25, you might be well served to take it down to the gel coat, apply a barrier coat, and then the bottom paint. also, others here recommend using a different color for the first coat so you can tell easily when the top coat is getting thin.

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9089 Posts

Response Posted - 06/15/2011 : 04:12:09

Ablative ("copolymer") is probably your best bet. It remains effective over multiple seasons with dry storage between them. As long as there's paint, there's protection. Your main issue might be slime and other plant growth, so an Interlux paint with Biolux or Pettit with Irgarol (sp?) would be good. West Marine's PCA Gold is private-branded Pettit Ultima SR (for Slime Reduction)--a good buy, especially when WM puts it on sale.

I'll offer the opinion that your fouling issues (no barnacles) are minor enough that starting with a contrasting "signal coat" is probably not that important. You can use your original paint as your "signal" that the ablative is thin. Just thoroughly sand what's there, to give it some "teeth" and remove anything that's flaking, and don't breathe the dust.

If you put two coats of ablative on, you'll probably be good for 3 years--maybe more, depending on how you use the boat. (Sailing wears if off slowly--sitting at a dock doesn't.) As said above, two gallons will be more than enough for two coats. You can save what's left over--I put some thinner on top before closing the can. If you pull it onto a trailer, some of the paint might wear off, but you can touch it up over the years without repainting the whole boat.

Hope this helps...

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3495 Posts

Response Posted - 06/15/2011 : 08:54:09

I used Interlux Micron XT or Micron Extra. Can't remember which one but it's the copolymer one. Since in freshwater, paint has lasted a long time. Bottom weas painted in Fall'06 and so it is now....4 1/2 years. As I indicated above, I plan to get it pressure washed twice this year since I had a little more than normal slime last Fall. I am trying to set an appointment for next Tuesday for the pressure wash ($75 !). If that day is avaiable and it's good weather, I'll see how it looks and then decide if I have it bottom painted this Fall.

When last painted, I used the same color as what was on there - blue. I may consider a color change this year.

The pressure wash system has the water drain to a holding space below the grating smnd then it is pumped to I believe HEPA filters before the water is returned to the river. The guys were telling me that they had one sailor who either probably did not use his boat for years and kept it in the water all the time. When he came over for the $75 special, the slime was caked on and hanging off the bottom. There was so much slime, it clogged up their drain system. They had to go in successive times below the grates to clear the drain. It also did a number on their filter system.

In general, with just normal slime on the bottom, when it is pressure washed, it is common to pick up at about 1 knot in speed.

When I had the bottom painted, I had the guys bottom paint it for me. They only had to do a light sanding of the bottom. They attended to a few blisters that I had and epoxied that surface when they were done before painting over it. I have been pleased not having the chore or huge expense bottom painting annually. However, I also do not race and cannot comment on the speed loss of soft vs hard paint. But my way of thinking is that for most boats out there, the big difference is when did they get their boat pressure washed - That makes a big difference in boat speed.

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 06/15/2011 : 15:21:20

I use WM's ablative, pressure wash in the Fall and touch up thin areas before Spring launch. It takes about 3 quarts to do the bottom, so last year my touch ups were my signal coat red instead of blue. I have now used all of my leftovers and have a well protected, spotty bottom; it has been 3 years since a full coat with pretty good results and at least another year to go. I do get a little veggie growth along the waterline where it gets air, sun, and water if I don't sail for more than 2 weeks, but it wipes off easily with a soft deck brush. I will again say that sailors on your lake are your best resource after you choose whether you want an ablative, copolymer, or hard paint, and it sounds like a copolymer or ablative is what you want.

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JoshMcCullock
1st Mate

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USA
68 Posts

Response Posted - 06/20/2011 : 15:32:36

We're in the same situation as you. ( slimy lake, not a serious racer) We did 2 coats of Interlux Bottomkote with a signal color underneath it. The base coat is a slightly lighter red Petit Vivid.
It's been great so far, and Bottomkote is one of the most affordable when you find it on sale.
Be sure to check for blisters though.

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jnoworrys
1st Mate

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USA
28 Posts

Response Posted - 06/24/2011 : 18:04:13

vc 17m goes on easy and lasts.. I your vc tar on my keel after sanding off all the pits and rust spots, then applied vc-17m.. 2 seasons now and looks great

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