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<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="navy">It's time for a new anchor line. Does anyone know the recommended thickness? TIA</font id="navy"></font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS">
3/8" line should be fine for almost all anchoring applications. Now if a hurricane's coming, maybe 1/2" - Better yet, just move the boat to safer territory.
I use 1/2", not just for the strength, but because its a LOT easier on my hands! (OK, I do admit the extra strength does allow me to sleep quite well when the wind pipes up at anchor and its more abrasion tolerant too). I also use about 15ft of chain (I like LOTS of chain! Its a great sleep aid also!)
I use 20 ft of chain and 1/2 inch line. I would think that 3/8 line would be fine for a lunch hook. West Marine's premium pre-spliced anchor line only has a 4400 lb breaking strength, a bit less than the weight of the average Catalina 25. Their 1/2 inch line is 7500 lbs. You be the judge.
I use 40 ft of chain and 5/8 inch line on my mooring since we are exposed to a long east wind fetch and the boat gets bounced around a lot in a blow.
I have 20" of chain and 150' of 1/2" line. I don't see a downside to having the larger line. It provides better hand feel, it's stronger and fits easily in the locker. The additional weight is negligible.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by aeckhart</i> <br />I use 20 ft of chain and 1/2 inch line. I would think that 3/8 line would be fine for a lunch hook. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Yes, shorter chain and smaller line are fine for a lunch hook, but then you have to stow an extra anchor and rode. I just use one of my two 12# Danforths with my 1/2" rode and chain for everything.
In California off shore of Ventura/Santa Barbara when we would anchor at the Channel Islands, we would use 250ft of 1/2 and 50ft of heavy chain, but the water was quite deep where we would sometimes anchor. The anchor locker was so full I had to carry the anchor on an anchor bracket on the side of the bow pulpit.
I still hang it there on the bracket for cleaning, but the Banana River here in Florida is so shallow (we anchor in 5ft of water) that more than 15ft of chain is just dead weight now.....
We run about 200' of 1/2 with 30' of "heavy" chain. Our primary reason for 1/2" is to lessen risk of parting if line is weakened by chafing or other damage. We also run chafing gear, run the rode over fairlead roller, and have a backed attachment point mid line a few feet aft of the roller. We use a pad eye but I've seen plenty of people use cleats as well. This is to lower risk of chafing and to lessen "turns" in the line (which can weaken the strength). Considering there is not significant cost difference between 3/8 and 1/2 it seems like an easy choice?
Half inch is about the limit before you start trading elasticity for strength. If I were lifting the boat with a crane I wouldn't use 3/8, but its working load is fine for anchoring loads in anything short of severe storms. How much load will your anchor absorb before dragging? If you sleep better with 1/2", go for it. Perception is as important adequacy.
It's been my experience that with enough scope the "curve" of the rode helps with "elasticity" (or at least helps prevent the need for as much of it) as long as the chain etc is not so heavy that it weighs down the bow (which can be harsh when anchored in chop). I don't think it's just perception that 1/2" is stronger than 3/8. I think there is a reasonable argument for why 1/2" may be the safer choice (all else being equal) when using one set of ground tackle for a wide range of conditions. 3/8 working load is fine as long as the line remains in good condition. 1/2 gives a greater margin of safety especially if chafe or other damage occurs. For not much more expense and with few slight disadvantages (weight, cost, storage space, and slightly less elastic) it seems like 1/2" is a good choice. I'd be comfortable hanging on 3/8 in most conditions (if enough rode, chain, proper size anchor, etc) but I'd be especially careful to inspect and maintain the integrity of the line. Just my opinion...
1/2" is definitely stronger. The perception is whether safe and adequate lets you sleep well or do you want to oversize. As Stu says. it is a weak link system, so upsizing requires upsizing everything to have a real rather than perceived benefit. There is nothing wrong with 3/8, 7/16 or 1/2 inch systems, so use what you want. If hardware is matched to 3/8 and using 1/2 line makes you comfortable, it won't hurt anything because a 3/8 system is fine. But just like 1/2" rode on a 3/8" system, 3/8" rode on a 1/2" inch system is still a 3/8" system.
Line can lose 90% of its strength and look just like line that has lost 50% (check P/S old line tests), so diameter is good for abrasion but not age and repeated cycling. If I frequently anchored in open roadsteads with lots of swell and wind I would go with a half inch system and replace it regularly, but I don't so I don't.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave5041</i> <br />1/2" is definitely stronger. The perception is whether safe and adequate lets you sleep well or do you want to oversize. As Stu says. it is a weak link system, so upsizing requires upsizing everything to have a real rather than perceived benefit. There is nothing wrong with 3/8, 7/16 or 1/2 inch systems, so use what you want. If hardware is matched to 3/8 and using 1/2 line makes you comfortable, it won't hurt anything because a 3/8 system is fine. But just like 1/2" rode on a 3/8" system, 3/8" rode on a 1/2" inch system is still a 3/8" system.
Well put. I agree 100% regarding "system". It's what I meant when I mentioned all the individual components but you explained it much more clearly. I don't know if I'd go as far as to call 1/2" "oversized" though. Like you mention, it depends on use and conditions. Ultimately I think you and I are actually pretty much on the same page.
Line can lose 90% of its strength and look just like line that has lost 50% (check P/S old line tests), so diameter is good for abrasion but not age and repeated cycling. If I frequently anchored in open roadsteads with lots of swell and wind I would go with a half inch system and replace it regularly, but I don't so I don't. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I was mostly referring to abrasion but larger diameter also has more strength when tied in knots, lead around sharp bends, etc. I know if the ground tackle is set up "correctly" there will be no knots except where the line is cleated to deck but this may be a relevant point for some people reading this thread.
I carry two main bow anchors. Lighter one is a 20# Danforth high tensile with 20'x3/16" chain to 3/8" nylon double braid. Heavier is a 22# Bruce-style with 30'x1/4" chain to 7/16" nylon double braid. My boat came with 1/2" twisted nylon rode, so I've tried it. I think 1/2" nylon on a C-25 is pushing both the elasticity vs. strength trade off, and size of the stock bow cleats. If you're happy with 1/2", go for it!
Leon... It's always seemed to me that double-braid doesn't provide anywhere near the elasticity (and thereby shock-absorption) of twisted rope--especially twisted nylon. I think I've read that the difference is something like a factor of six. Have you found differently? That, to me, is one of the important characteristics of a rode (unless it's just for a lunch hook). I notice a significant difference with just a 10' dock line when a wake comes through my slip.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.