Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
We recently changed out a Furlex furler for a Harken on our '89 tall rig.
Long story short, it is easier to go from a tall to a standaard than vice versa. Depending on the brand, it <i>could</i> be as simple as cutting the top foil shorter and reducing the length of the forestay. You will most probably need professional help with shortening the forestay.
Thank you for the information. The furler is a Harken. I took the Mast down yesterday and removed the sail to take to the shop for some repair work. I note that the rod the sail was attached to has a 2 1/2' hinged section at the top. Perhaps the pole is designed to fit either rig? But if that were the case would the sail its self be too big?
The standard rig mast is 2' shorter than the tall rig. So the length of the forestay will be a little over 2' shorter (using basic geometry which I've long forgotten). I'm sure Harken can tell you how to shorten the furler "foil" (what you're calling the "rod", I presume), but before I mucked up a nice Harken furler, I'd get a professional rigger on the case.
Do you have an older forestay from before the furler was installed on the TR? If so, you might benefit from shortening the one that's in the furler (without removing it)--or having that done, and then putting the old stay back on the other boat. But I'm not specifically familiar with the Harken and its installation...
The sail will indeed be too big, but a local loft can cut it down for you by removing some of the foot and reconstructing the tack and clew. That probably should be done after the furler is re-sized. It shouldn't be as big a deal as converting a hank-on to a furling jib, which many have done.
Just noodling on this, one other consideration that comes to mind is that a furler makes a boat significantly more attractive on the market, even if it doesn't increase the "value" by as much as it costs... (I know it helped seal the deal when we bought Passage.) If you want (or need) to sell the TR any time soon, you might do better leaving that furler on it and getting a new one for the SR, as opposed to spending the money to convert the furler to the SR. And if you're not a racer, there are some other very good furlers out there for less $$ than the $Harken. Just a wild-hare thought...
Depending how much work you plan to do yourself - one of the first things you need to determine is what model and generation the furler is. Once you know that the Harken owner's manual is an excellent reference. Rick Wilfert in the Harken technical department in Pewaukee is also very knowledgeable, responsive and helpful.
Hinge, hmmm, I wonder of you are looking at the halyard restrainer. I also think what you are calling the "rod" is actually the "extrusion" or "foil." You won't know how much to cut off the top foil until you know the pin-to-pin dimension of the forestay . . . again the owner's manual covers everything in detail.
I used a professional rigger to make up a new forestay. After thinking about it - a rigger may not shorten a used stay for liability reasons.
I would rate the skill level required to assemble/install a furler as moderate. Two sets of hands (and eyes) makes the job much easier. As my father used to say "most things are much simpler than they first appear." That certainly applies here.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.