Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Apparently I sat down a little too far off center in the Walker Bay dinghy this evening and swamped it - just a little forunately. Unfortunately the new-this-spring 2.5 Suzuki outboard was partially submerged - for less than a second. It did stall and would not start. So first thing tomorrow (per the owner's manual) the plug comes out, a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder and carburetor, change the oil (second time in 2 days,) change the fuel cross my fingers. Will also need to hit the wire connectors with WD40. This occurred in fresh water.
Wow, accidents happen fast . . . I was in the water in the blink of an eye. Great justification for a RID!
Fresh water... No harm, no foul (probably). If it'd been salt, the first step would have been immersion in fresh--then the rest of the program. And a couple of years later (if you were lucky), you'd be buying a new engine. Don't bother asking me how I know this...
There have been two Walker Bay 10' RIDs for sale in my area on CL in the last two weeks, both for around $650-700. Let me tell you, I've been sorely tempted. One of those with the sail kit would be a kick in the pants for a dinghy. The RID kit alone is nearly $1000, I have no idea why these two were going for so low, both looked to be in pretty good condition, and the cheaper one came with a trailer.
Dingy represents an application of a boat, not a type. Advertising writers are free to create words, acronyms, and meanings that are frequently incorporated into the next round of pop language, stripping terms of their clear meanings and unnecessarily complicating explanations. Boats had "saloons" and now they have "salons", etc. Cars can have a mechanically driven, axial flow supercharger and call it a turbocharger, so what do you call an exhaust driven axial flow supercharger? Why is it different? Mechanically driven supercharges provide boost continuously and real turbocharges provide boost on demand. It pains me to see our language pointlessly diluted, but I'm an old codger and RIBs can be RIDs!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Stinkpotter</i> <br />Never heard of a RID... just a RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat). Guess I learn something every day (or so). <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">me too!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave5041</i> <br />. . . Mechanically driven supercharges provide boost continuously and real turbocharges provide boost on demand. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I wonder if they make one of these for my Suzuki 2.5?
Well, after the first oil change (there's a neat little sight glass to view the oil level) it still looked a little cloudy so I changed it again. WM doesn't carry a spark plug so I cleaned the one that came with the motor (1+ hour run time.) Emptied the carb bowl and fuel tank and put fuel in from the spare gas can . . . best I could muster one brief sputter. Maybe some water seeped into the spare fuel can? Maybe there's some residual water still in the carb, and if so how do I get it out? Drained the onboard tank and carb bowl one more time, blew some air through the incoming fuel line. Filled it with fresh gas and voila, purrs like a kitten.
Must have had some luck on my side - while there are water spots on the motor cover - I can't see any on the powerhead or wiring. Even the pull cord is dry .
This might seem like a stupid question; did you store it correctly after you took it off the dink? If placed incorrectly (I'm sure you know) oil can seep into the wrong places and it won't start. I believe if placed on the correct side (after being on the wrong side) or upright it should be fine in a day or two.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by DaveR</i> <br /> . . . did you store it correctly after you took it off the dink? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Yup, even after the odd look my son gave me when I explained "tiller arm down."
I reckon the little bit of blue smoke was from the WD40 I sprayed into the carb and cylinder chamber late last night.
We've got the 10' WB RID and it is a great tender. You can stand on the side rail of the dink and it wont swamp. We're tempted to to get the sail kit for it, would be a kick.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave5041</i> <br />Cars can have a mechanically driven, axial flow supercharger and call it a turbocharger, so what do you call an exhaust driven axial flow supercharger?... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Turbo-supercharger.
Actually, most turbochargers are centrifugal compressors while most, but not all, superchargers are positive displacement twin screw compressors.
I do feel that the English language is being destroyed by improper use of words.
OJ - I'm glad you got your motor running again. My dad had an old 12 HP Elgin when I was a kid. We were camping one time and a storm came up during the night. The next morning we found the boat over-turned and the motor under water.
We flipped the boat back over and my dad pulled the plugs, drained the carb, squirted some oil in the cylinders, and had it running a couple of hours later.
That motor never missed a lick for years after that time.
OJ, quick thinking, glad you got the motor going again. BTW, if you ever lay down a small 4 stroke on the wrong side and oil gets in the cylinder, put the motor on a stand, pull the spark plug, and cycle the engine pulling the starter rope until it clears up, clean and reinsert the plug. It should then start up - might smoke a bit initially but should run okay after that.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Actually, most turbochargers are centrifugal compressors while most, but not all, superchargers are positive displacement twin screw compressors.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I won't hijack beyond this. Sorry, but not true. Centrifugal supercharges are extremely large to get significant boost and very uncommon. Positive displacement supercharges have become less common except in high boost like drag racers, but axial flow, mechanically driven superchargers are increasingly common there. Turbochargers have axial flow vanes in the exhaust that power axial flow vanes in the intake. Centrifugals are are large pancakes, while turbos are small and tubular. Look under the hood of your local WRX.
Took the Suzuki back to the lake this pm so we could move the mothership ship back to its mooring. Think I figured out what happened; when there's two people in the dingy one person sits on the front bench and one on the rear. After my son exited the dinghy and I handed him a couple of items I sat back down on the rear bench. The bow shot updwards and the stern quickly took on water - dunking the outboard. As soon as I rolled out of the boat the transom and outboard sprang back above the water. Another great feature of the Suzuki 2.5, neutral . . . if events had occurred a little differently this could have been a serious accident.
Lesson learned; remember to sit on the middle bench after unloading a passenger and gear! Besides a slightly bruised ego, all is back to normal. After my son realized I was okay he later explained it was pretty hard keep a straight face.
PS I sprayed WD40 on all the electrical connections. This was a good drill for the admiral also. When I couldn't motor back to retrieve her - she unhooked the mothership from the mooring and motored over to the marina alone.
One more hijack: I stand corrected: "Up to a wheel diameter of about 160 mm, only radial-flow turbines are used. From 300 mm onwards, only axial-flow turbines are used. Between these two values, both variants are possible." But even this is not entirely correct as there are several aftermarket axial flows well below 160mm (6.4"). Axials allow more efficient gas flow in a non-boost mode more efficient gas flow, but radials combine initial curved vane acceleration to feed centripetal acceleration and provide more boost at lower turbine speed.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave5041</i> <br />One more hijack: I stand corrected: "Up to a wheel diameter of about 160 mm, only radial-flow turbines are used. From 300 mm onwards, only axial-flow turbines are used. Between these two values, both variants are possible." But even this is not entirely correct as there are several aftermarket axial flows well below 160mm (6.4"). Axials allow more efficient gas flow in a non-boost mode more efficient gas flow, but radials combine initial curved vane acceleration to feed centripetal acceleration and provide more boost at lower turbine speed. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Geez... Wrong forum. <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Lesson learned; remember to sit on the middle bench after unloading a passenger and gear!<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">...or get an inflatable dink. It's like a rock.
Hmmmm.... My experience was a tad different. Johnson 3.5, last of the two strokes, white squall, a missed bridge opening, flipped dink, yeah that kinda stuff.
Unpickled it the next morning, but it never ran the same way again. Salt wawa, but even after flushing very well with fresh and letting it run daily for several weeks, after 6 months, I was done with it... Word to the wise, try not to tow with the motor on. Dink can flip and that is one hell of an experience for sure....
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Stinkpotter</i> <br />or get an inflatable dink. It's like a rock. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I know I'm looking for the best of both worlds here . . . but I've read where inflatibles leak at the seams with age. Would this be true of all brands and/or types? I'm looking to reduce or avoid maintenance!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by OJ</i> <br />...but I've read where inflatibles leak at the seams with age. Would this be true of all brands and/or types? I'm looking to reduce or avoid maintenance!<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I chose a Hypalon boat (Achilles) over PVC for purportedly better durability, especially against UV. (Silly me--it spends most of its time in my basement.) None of them last forever, but I know many that are 15 years old or more, with substantial usage.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.