Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Your postings her didn't mention this, but I hope you saturated the screwholes (all the way through) and allowed the finish to set before screwing the pieces on. Otherwise, over time the stainless will blacken the oak badly when they get wet.
Question: I couldn't follow what you meant about cutting away the inner face. Did these pieces replace the aluminum extrusion? Are the hull and deck not flush? Could you post a little more of the details, for those of us (including others searching the forum's archives in the future) who are hoping to do this project someday? Thanks.
Hey all, sorry for the lull. It's my busy season. So, the wooden rub rail and bowsprit experiment have progressed and we've learned a bit. Firstly, we love the rub rail. We've added a couple dents and dings to that varnished finish, but that was to be expected. As someone said earlier, it's much like the "sacrificial pine". For the minimal investment and time we put into it, I could feasiblely replace it in 3 years and be totally happy. The bowsprit, designed and built by my friend Allen, has gone a but differently. This particular bowsprit was a prototype made of oak plywood. It's sturdy as hell. That is until we splashed the boat and the bow cradle of the trailer caught the bowsprit and flexed it pretty good. It cracked a little. We've also beat the tar our of it in our concrete slip. But, it's a prototype. The second version will be hardwood, much thinner and shorter and probably have a flat front instead of the spear shape. I expect to build that one this winter. This one is doing fine for now, but it'll come off after this season.
Lee, the hull and deck are not flush. There is a raised lip from the deck being lowered onto the hull. You have to account for that on the upper half of your trim piece. A couple passes on the table saw is all it takes. I'll measure the bowsprit next time I'm out, but I can tell you now that you'll need a spindle sander to get a really tight fit with the front of the bow. Allen made 2 identical for 2 Mk1 25s and the bows were totally different.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.