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Shore Power Panel - PO

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mikesuej
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119 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/20/2011 : 06:57:53

I know this is a stupid question, but I can't imagine the PO screwing this up this bad, so maybe I'm wrong. My Blue Systems A/C panel has a main 30A breaker to turn power on to the whole system, but then it has two additional breakers - one for cabin outlet and one for battery charger leads. Problem is, when I turn on the main breaker and turn OFF the cabin outlet and battery charger, everything still has power. That is, the power to the battery charger and cabin outlets remains on no matter if their respective breaker switches are on or off. Does this make any sense to anyone? Why would the batt charger and cabin outlet breaker switches NOT turn off their power? Sound like a rewire to everyone?

Michael T. Janocik
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John Russell
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Response Posted - 08/20/2011 : 07:20:12

Sounds to me like the PO either chose not to use the individual switches or wired them wrong. This could be an issue downstream if the wiring isn't rated for 30 amps. Downstream use could exceed the capability of the cabin outlet wires if they're only rated for 15 amps, etc. Rewiring all depends on how you feel about fires.

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mikesuej
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Response Posted - 08/20/2011 : 07:26:56

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by John Russell
 Sounds to me like the PO either chose not to use the individual switches or wired them wrong. This could be an issue downstream if the wiring isn't rated for 30 amps. Downstream use could exceed the capability of the cabin outlet wires if they're only rated for 15 amps, etc. Rewiring all depends on how you feel about fires.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I looks to me that the wire used downstream is the same gauge and type as that coming in off the shore power, so that doesn't concern me, I don't think. Why would anyone NOT want to be able to power down individual circuits?

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britinusa
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Response Posted - 08/20/2011 : 08:31:58

I would draw up the wiring diragram and if it is an issue, certainly sounds that it is, then rewire.

I did the 110v wiring on JD and have similar setup but on two switch panels.
a) the master switch supplies only the sub switch panel.
b) the subswitch panel supplies (via separate lines) the Air Conditioner and the 110v outlet in the aft berth (which has our new Battery charger plugged in) the 3rd switch is not used right now, have not got a use for the it right now, but we could add an outlet on the side of the galley cabinet, you know, for things like the Vacuum cleaner, Coffee Grinder, Waste disposal, etc.

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John Russell
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Response Posted - 08/20/2011 : 09:07:38

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by John Russell
 [quote]Originally posted by John Russell
 [quote]Originally posted by mikesuej
 .... Why would anyone NOT want to be able to power down individual circuits?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">If you don't turn anything on, the circuit is essentially "powered down". There's no current flowing through it. As long as you're always aware of the draw of any of the appliances already in use -- no porblem. It only becomes an issue when you plug in a 20 amp item after forgetting you have another item in the other plug and drawing > 10 amps. What're the chances of that happening? Probably pretty slim. But, even if you should, the master break is going to pop so, you're protected. That assumes all of the wiring is as you've described, capable of 30 amp service. I think the downstream breakers, the more I think about it are a little like a belt and suspenders approach.

Paul could have an issue when his AC compressor kicks in while he's vacuuming and his admiral is doing the dishes.

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Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2011 : 11:23:40

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by John Russell
 I think the downstream breakers, the more I think about it are a little like a belt and suspenders approach.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I don't agree. As much as is practical, you should have breakers that are just above 80% of the amperage you expect to use on each circuit. Your house probably has 15-20 amp breakers or fuses on the household circuits (for operating up to 12 or 16 amps). 30 is a little high for safety purposes, so there should be smaller breakers down-stream.

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mikesuej
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Response Posted - 08/20/2011 : 14:13:32

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Stinkpotter
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by John Russell
 I think the downstream breakers, the more I think about it are a little like a belt and suspenders approach.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I don't agree. As much as is practical, you should have breakers that are just above 80% of the amperage you expect to use on each circuit. Your house probably has 15-20 amp breakers or fuses on the household circuits (for operating up to 12 or 16 amps). 30 is a little high for safety purposes, so there should be smaller breakers down-stream.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I totally agree- just can't figure out why the PO - Tom Potter would have wired it as it is - not like what I've seen of his workmanship on other mods - perhaps it was the owner before him or even Catalina. Just not that difficult to wire it correctly to the 15 amp breakers. So I'll rewire it.

Is it imperative that there be conduit? There is none - but the wire is run nicely so there are no chafe areas.

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