Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I don't think I did this right. I put on the new CD gudgeons with the plastic inserts and backed with 1/8 aluminum plates, but I've been so happy using butyl tape on large surface items I forgot it has no adhesion. So naturally, with any amount of tightening and adjusting while keeping the weight of the rudder, the gudgeons slide to the to the bottom of bolt holes once the weight is back on. I'm talking about a mm of shake from the bottom pintle, but it also means the weight is on the top gudgeon. Do I re-bed with 4200 or Sikaflex and lift the lower fitting that mm, or loosen the pintle bolts and jump up and down on the rudder?
Molly Brown: 1967 Grand Banks 32-#34. Bronze, mahogany, teak, oak, with 120hp diesel to push all 10 tons. Currently an abuser of the bilge pump. Also... The Tall Rig Spirit: 1978, #973, Cast Fe Fin Keel on a Trailer
When I replaced my gudgeons I put an automotive floor jack under the rudder to take the weight of the rudder off the gudgeons and get everything lined up then tightened up the bolts. I did use 4200 and I'm not really sure about butyl tape water proofing the bolt holes or if it will degrade in the sun over time. The lower bolt holes on my boat are in the water most of the time and you want a good sealant on them.
HUH? I don't know what "bottom of bolt hole" means. There should be no slop in the holes. Did you redrill the holes? Check your pintle hardware, has it become sloppy? And Scott, your lower pintle in in the water most of the time? I didn't think that was the case.
Bigger bolts? I have never noticed any play and I have replaced several sets of gudgeons. Did you get new bolts? I always used new hardware when making a repair or upgrade.
1/4 bolt hole is 9/32, so just under a mm of slop. I've taken perfection too far here. With the actual sealing surfaces well hidden from UV and constant water, I'm leaving it alone, but done again, I'd use an adhesive and I did read about your floor jack method, but rather I looped the rudder with line and lifted from the backstay adjustment ring.
Frank, What I should have said was that the lower bolts are subject to more water than the uppers when sailing and motoring, also if your on a mooring ball due to wave action, Not in a perfectly calm marina. I wouldn't consider there location to be a dry one.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.