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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Everything correct here? Masthead photo.

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rrick
Captain

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USA
261 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/08/2011 : 19:30:06

The plastic halyard sheaves (2) were not large enough to clear the inside of the masthead casting evident by shiny aluminum and a wad of fabric in the sheave.
My BB sheave I bought from CD needs three other friends and I don't need to order the divider plate (right?) with internal all rope halyards. What is a spinnaker crane for if I already have a fore-most swivel block? I'm only interested in flying the symmetrical spinnaker with a ChuteScoop. Thanks for checking this.

Molly Brown: 1967 Grand Banks 32-#34. Bronze, mahogany, teak, oak, with 120hp diesel to push all 10 tons. Currently an abuser of the bilge pump. Also... The Tall Rig Spirit: 1978, #973, Cast Fe Fin Keel on a Trailer

Edited by - rrick on 09/09/2011 15:10:59

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 09/08/2011 : 20:12:00

You can do internal halyards with 4 sheaves in the masthead, but you will need 4 exit slots and you should use the divider plate with 4 sheaves. If you are currently using 3/8" halyards, you will need to drop down to 5/16ths. The 2 extra sheaves will give you a second jib halyard in the forward sheave and an internal topping lift in the extra aft sheave. If you don't want/need them, stay with the 2-sheave setup.
The purpose of the spinnaker crane is to move the block a bit more out in front of the mast and to allow it to slide side-to-side more easily during wind shifts. However, the block you presently have should be sufficient. Again, 5/16ths for the spin halyard. I've even seen some use 1/4" for the halyard.

Edited by - dmpilc on 09/08/2011 20:18:58

Lee Panza
Captain

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USA
468 Posts

Response Posted - 09/08/2011 : 21:39:13

No VHF antenna up there? VHF transmission is pretty much line-of-sight, so the higher the antenna the further the reach. That may not be an important consideration at present, if you're on a small lake, but if you ever dream of taking the boat out to big waters a mast-mounted antenna could become an important safety factor.

Edited by - on

rrick
Captain

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USA
261 Posts

Response Posted - 09/08/2011 : 23:01:11

Ok, I do need the divider plate, thanks. They don't make a full width BB sheave which is why I'm hung up on going back to a 4 sheave system. I got it! 5/16" jib/main halyard, 1/4" external topping lift, no new mast exits. I'll even go cheapo on the jib halyard because the two slot Alado Furler foil has twin integrated blocks that currently house my low stretch jib halyards (system furls by spinning the foil, drum up, free riding on the forestay with plastic bearings). VHF isn't my primary ship-to-shore on my glacial cut lake, my sat phone covers that. So the spinnaker block is fine, but with 3/8" line already, why go smaller?

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2011 : 06:42:48

If you don't need the extra halyard capacity, CD has replacement wide sheaves for just main and jib internal halyards:
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=171

If you go the 4-sheave route, these are less expensive than the BB sheaves:
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=34
Buy 2 of these as spacers and/or for your secondary halyards and 1 more BB sheave for your other primary halyard. Note the second paragraph.
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=11

For 5/16ths line, I suggest XLE line. Email the seller and ask for pricing on the halyard lengths you need:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NovaTech-XLE-sheet-halyard-line-5-16-x-100-White-GREEN-/360382419141?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item53e87750c5
I like the line a lot and I've had good experience with this guy. Available in white/red as well as solid colors.

Edited by - dmpilc on 09/09/2011 06:50:14

cshaw
Captain

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USA
460 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2011 : 06:50:12

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by rrick
 My BB sheave I bought from CD needs three other friends and I don't need to order the divider plate (right?) with internal all rope halyards. What is a spinnaker crane for if I already have a fore-most swivel block? I'm only interested in flying the symmetrical spinnaker with a ChuteScoop. Thanks for checking this.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

You have a nice clean setup! Your masthead looks quite similar to my tall rig masthead. I have two sheeves in the masthead, one for the jib and one for the main. They are wide enough that the halyards (5/16 jib and 3/8 main) do not jump off of them. I think I found them at West Marine.

My spinnaker halyard (3/8) is rigged like yours (I use 3/8 for main and spinnaker to be easier on my hands, 5/16 for the jib since its on a winch), and I use a solid axle block due to the strains on it (bearings fail on me under halyard type loads). No need for the fitting to extend it further forward unless your jib furler interferes with it (I do not use a furler). Mine enters the mast like yours (same fitting actually!)

I have a spinnaker pole topping lift just above the spreaders that has an entry block on the forward side of the mast

My topping lift has a spliced on thimble and it and the backstay are both secured with the same pin (I do not have two pins on the aft end of the main truck like you have). My topping lift has its adjustments along the boom.

Your logic for no VHF sounds good to me! I also have a windex, but don't have the wind instruments (maybe one day!! :-) )You might think about getting an LED Lightbulb for your anchor light to cut down battery drain??? Put some wood sealer on the wooden block and maybe dribble some 5 minute epoxy into the crack to keep it from falling apart?

The spinnaker pole topping lift exits on the starboard side of the mast and leads aft to the cockpit

The jib and spinnaker halyards exit with a dual sheeve exit block on the port side and lead aft to the cockpit.

The main halyard has an exit scoop (like our spinnaker halyards use for entry) high enough on the mast that I can reach up high to grab halyard to hoist the main, and that halyard leads to the halyard winch on the mast.

If you want two jib halyards you would need the narrower sheeves on the front, and a divider plate. The problem would be the divider plate won't allow you to only have a single sheeve aft for the main, so you would end up having an unused sheeve aft. If you use it for your topping lift, you would also need another exit sheeve lower.

Sounds like you understand all of this however, so to me, the key is how many jib halyards do you want? If one, your current setup looks great to me. If two, you have to use the 4 sheeves and divider plate and decide what to do with the second aft halyard (there is a school of thought that says you cannot ever have too many halyards!!!)

Cheers!

Chuck

Edited by - on

rrick
Captain

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USA
261 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2011 : 14:54:41

I have the BB sheave already and found out it wouldn't fit after I dropped the mast; glad they don't charge by the foot at my marina going from a 25' boat to 30' for the next week. When you buy the 5/16 halyard kit from CD it comes with 4 regular sheaves and both halyards for about what it would cost for buying just a main halyard and 3 sheaves, so that is how I ordered along with a divider plate. I wish I could do some electronics on the wind cups. The cathode display failed but instructions state it's an alternator @ 600 ohms with 0.25VAC minimum. It was an Elecrd Marine Systems, Now Moor, and I did buy their speed impeller system which fit perfect in the through-hull and 4" cutout. Just so we're on the same page, the idea is aft main-exit internal, fore jib-exit internal, aft/fore topping lift external, and leave the spin as is. The extra bolt for the boom topping lift was added months ago but I never used it being such a pain to catch the boom end the way it was rigged. Here's a photo of my crazy furled

Edited by - on

rrick
Captain

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USA
261 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2011 : 15:01:53

Alado furler foils are crazy heavy. Since they install building from the stem-up, I took it off to drop/raise the mast. Not a trailer boat friendly design. One foil section even bent (had extras to replace) when I used the marina crane last mast-up.

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John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2011 : 15:03:40

Just for future reference, if you put a hard return between your photos, they'll stack on top of one another and make the frame narrower and thus, easier to read.

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rrick
Captain

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USA
261 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2011 : 15:10:09

I'll be doing the same LED treatment for the anchor light as I did the steamer.

It's an LED trimmable strip light coiled into the dome. It's a complete circuit with resistors so battery 12V powers it fine. I put two in, incase a strip fails, and I'll do the same for the anchor. Like $20 for 2' at the auto store.

Edited by - on

rrick
Captain

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USA
261 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2011 : 15:13:08

Thank you much! Easiest justification coding in the world. <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by John Russell
 Just for future reference, if you put a hard return between your photos, they'll stack on top of one another and make the frame narrower and thus, easier to read.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2011 : 15:23:37

Actually, the Alado furler looks like a pretty decent system. Just read up on it.

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rrick
Captain

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USA
261 Posts

Response Posted - 09/18/2011 : 11:59:31

All correct still? I'm not missing a headstay toggle? Nigel Calder says they are an important part, especially with a furler.

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rrick
Captain

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USA
261 Posts

Response Posted - 09/18/2011 : 13:28:44

Oh, cool. The CD kit includes one in their forestay kit, which I don't have in my hand. I just browsed to their site. That pile of wires I bought from them a few months ago isn't something I've opened and played around with just yet. Soon.

Edited by - on

rrick
Captain

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USA
261 Posts

Response Posted - 08/04/2012 : 13:33:26

Not correct. The upper shroud thimble is not sandwiched between the tangs. Just getting around to putting the mast back to vertical.

Edited by - on

Sam001
Vice Commodore

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USA
441 Posts

Response Posted - 08/05/2012 : 05:52:09

I like the LED strip idea.

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redviking
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1771 Posts

Response Posted - 08/05/2012 : 22:57:29

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by rrick
 VHF isn't my primary ship-to-shore on my glacial cut lake, my sat phone covers that. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Sat Phone? What does that cost and why?

sten

Edited by - on

CarbonSink62
Navigator

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USA
208 Posts

Response Posted - 08/06/2012 : 13:25:16

I would not replace the navigation lights with LED bulbs that are not USGC approved.

From what I've read, if there were an 'incident' at night and an inquest in the morning, an insurance company (his or yours) might decide that the lights were not USGC approved and they aren't going to pay.

I love LED lights and will upgrade to the 2NM LED running lights from CD when the time comes, but until then I'm sticking with the 30 year old incandescent bulbs.

Just my $.02

Ken

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/06/2012 : 15:52:55

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by CarbonSink62
 From what I've read, if there were an 'incident' at night and an inquest in the morning, an insurance company (his or yours) might decide that the lights were not USGC approved and they aren't going to pay.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

There is absolutely no requirement that you must have only USCG approved/certified/labeled navigation lights. Additionally, there are no USCG requirements as to the source of the light whether it be LED, incandescent, halogen, oil lamp, etc.

Edited by - dlucier on 08/06/2012 15:56:32

rrick
Captain

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USA
261 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2012 : 03:06:05

Satellite phone :) By glacial cut I was trying to say VHF wont reach around the corners. Check out Globalstar. At the time of the original post, yearly contracts were $20/month unlimited voice because the service was very intermittent. Now it's up to $40/mo without an extreme improvement in service. Luckily the GSP-1600 phone I bought used under $100 (not their newest one) accesses Verizon Wireless voice networks too using pre-paid plans.

For the LED strip lamps I weighed heavily spending $50 for each USCG approved bulb vs $20 for both. I'm happy to have hard wired permanent and not a kick the mast to work because the festoon mount corroded lamp. I also carry the suction cup USGS approved portable nav lights for any reason, maybe the morning inspection will be one of them :)

Edited by - rrick on 08/12/2012 03:09:08

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