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Solar panel mount

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redeye
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Initially Posted - 10/17/2011 : 09:53:31

Got the 12 watt 15 volt marine grade panel from Defender

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|49497|1471367&id=1802131
Looking at using 2 of these for a rear rail mount.

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/KUU-83635/

Whatduhyathink?

Ray in Atlanta, Ga.
"Lee Key" '84 Catalina 25
Standard Rig / Fin Keel

Edited by - redeye on 03/07/2012 05:48:53

Sloop Smitten
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Response Posted - 10/17/2011 : 10:54:39

Looks like a good solution to me as long as you can figure out how to make the attachment to the panel. Probably need an intermediate bracket mounted between the panel and the mount. The grills weigh about 13 lbs. so the solar panels weight of 2.3 lbs should be no problem. It would be nice if the mounts could articulate on more than one axis for optimum angle to the sun but articulating mounts are a lot more expensive than this option. I really like the fact the panel is semi-flexible. Should make it much more durable.

Edited by - on

redeye
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Response Posted - 10/17/2011 : 11:03:39

I should have mentioned the aluminum angle strips as my idea to bridge the two. The solar panels have an aluminum plate backing which is light but strong. I'm thinking it might work fine.
I've been using a solar panel for about 4 years now that is mounted at an angle, inside the starbrd smoked window, so I'm not worried about the sun angle. I'm only drawing something like 4 amps if everything was turned on. It was only generating .05 amps.

Edited by - redeye on 10/17/2011 12:45:56

Ryan L
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Response Posted - 10/17/2011 : 12:03:08

We have the 30w version of that panel. Mounted it to a piece of starboard (with large holes drilled for ventilation. Then mounted the starboard to a stock solar panel mount designed for smaller panels. Has worked with zero issues in all weather for 3/4 year so far. Allows tilt/pivot in almost any direction. You can kinda see it in a pic on this thread: http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23353

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by redeye
 Got the 12 watt 15 volt marine grade panel from Defender

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|49497|1471367&id=1648222

Looking at using 2 of these for a rear rail mount.

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/KUU-83635/

Whatduhyathink?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Edited by - on

redeye
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Response Posted - 10/17/2011 : 12:10:26

Ryan.... I saw that on the video also. Very nice.

Edited by - on

redeye
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Response Posted - 10/17/2011 : 12:34:24

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|406|552|322399|655503&id=610546

OK.. Defender carries it also.

Edited by - on

Ryan L
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Response Posted - 10/17/2011 : 14:45:02

I think you're gonna enjoy that panel. Good luck with the install etc! Those brackets look solid!

Edited by - on

britinusa
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Response Posted - 10/17/2011 : 15:34:07

After seeing how much time our 18w panel spent in the shadow of the boat/sails, I moved ours to atop a 10' pole mounted on the stbd aft catbird seat. It now swivels 360 by rotating the pole, and swivels about 270 horizontally, it's rarely in shadow.

Paul

Edited by - on

OLarryR
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Response Posted - 10/17/2011 : 20:12:37

Edited by - on

redeye
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Response Posted - 10/19/2011 : 04:49:40

Sweet.. Thanks for showing that Larry.. I've got some aluminum angle and U strips that I'm gonna try to use to frame out the panel. Looking at using rivets, machine screws and nuts.... kind of a "that's what I found at the hardware store" decision.

It would be nice to leave it level and use it as a table, but the birds might find it attractive for a perch. Is that why they are always mounted at an angle?

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OLarryR
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Response Posted - 10/19/2011 : 15:59:25

Some may angle it to keep rainwater from pooling ! LOL

I angle it during the winter months and then return it to the horizontal for the summer months.

Edited by - on

Ryan L
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Response Posted - 10/19/2011 : 16:02:16

Panels angled because they produce more power the more directly they face towards the sun (makes a huge difference). Careful using aluminum and steel (screws etc) together in maritime environment. Seriously it is way easier to frame with something like starboard and then attach mount to that. Just cut a square the same size as the panel and attach the mount...

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by redeye
 Sweet.. Thanks for showing that Larry.. I've got some aluminum angle and U strips that I'm gonna try to use to frame out the panel. Looking at using rivets, machine screws and nuts.... kind of a "that's what I found at the hardware store" decision.

It would be nice to leave it level and use it as a table, but the birds might find it attractive for a perch. Is that why they are always mounted at an angle?

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Edited by - on

OLarryR
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Response Posted - 10/19/2011 : 20:42:07

Regarding the angling of the panel...We were only kidding. Of course the solar panel is angled to get most power from the sun. My controller has a digital readout and you can see exactly the difference in amps based on the angling to the sun with exactly perpendicular to the sun being the most efficient/max amps. The sun is lower in the winter, so that's when it is angled most.

Good point regarding aluminum and steel or stainless steel for that matter. I was going to build the mounting brackets out of stainless steel but stainless is much harder to bend and drill through compared to aluminum. I quickly gave up on the stanless matls I had ordered. So, I used aluminum plate matl and stainless steel screws. All the aluminum mounting matl, I spray coated several times with an industrial grade rust resistant primer and enamel. Granted, use of these matls is much less an issue in freshwater/river sailing air environment. In the 5+ years in use, the mounting hardware is equal to when new the day it was installed.

Good recommendation using starboard to mount the panel and then attach mounts to the starboard to minimize corrosive effects mixing metals. There are panels that certainly do require a backing matl and starboard is a good choice to use. However, there are many panels that are constructed requiring no backing plate and while a backing plate could be added anyway, it then adds to the weight/construction and I chose to minimize what was not needed. My panel is made to slip screw heads into the support channel. All the mount supports are aluminum as is the panel channel. However, all attaching screws, bolts, wing nuts I used stainless steels. But as indicate above, those areas where stainless was used were painted with a primer and enamel since I knew some galvanic action may occur between the dis-similar metals. I have had no issues and the areas of dissimilarity are minimal and can be visually checked. There are other areas where dis-similar matls also appear such as mast and boom fittings, so this is nothing new. Just that instead of anodized aluminum, a rust preventative primer and enamel were used and that seems to be satisfactory so far.

Edited by - OLarryR on 10/20/2011 03:55:44

OJ
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Response Posted - 10/20/2011 : 09:52:17

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Ryan L
 We have the 30w version of that panel. Mounted it to a piece of starboard (with large holes drilled for ventilation. Then mounted the starboard to a stock solar panel mount designed for smaller panels. Has worked with zero issues in all weather for 3/4 year so far. Allows tilt/pivot in almost any direction. You can kinda see it in a pic on this thread: http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23353
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Ryan, took a closer look at your set-up and it appears you achieved the swivel function using just one bracket. Can you share your source? Any closer shots available?

Edited by - on

Ryan L
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Response Posted - 10/20/2011 : 13:36:39

I don't think they're readily available anymore but you should be able to track one down with some minor effort. http://www.amazon.com/Sunsei-Mounting-SE-400-SE-500-Panels/dp/B001KVMCH2 Note that the mount in the pic has a clamp while I used the one that is a typical clamshell rail mount. IIRC it comes with both but you might want to make sure. I replaced the OEM fasteners with stainless and I added a hose clamp around the base. Otherwise the mount is stock and has worked flawlessly so far in all weather conditions with a 30 watt Ganz panel. Allows 100% adjustability with no tools required.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by OJ
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Ryan L
 We have the 30w version of that panel. Mounted it to a piece of starboard (with large holes drilled for ventilation. Then mounted the starboard to a stock solar panel mount designed for smaller panels. Has worked with zero issues in all weather for 3/4 year so far. Allows tilt/pivot in almost any direction. You can kinda see it in a pic on this thread: http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23353
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Ryan, took a closer look at your set-up and it appears you achieved the swivel function using just one bracket. Can you share your source? Any closer shots available?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Edited by - on

Ryan L
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Response Posted - 10/20/2011 : 13:40:21

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by OLarryR
 Regarding the angling of the panel...We were only kidding.

Oh, got it. You never know in this forum... ;)

Of course the solar panel is angled to get most power from the sun. My controller has a digital readout and you can see exactly the difference in amps based on the angling to the sun with exactly perpendicular to the sun being the most efficient/max amps. The sun is lower in the winter, so that's when it is angled most.

Good point regarding aluminum and steel or stainless steel for that matter. I was going to build the mounting brackets out of stainless steel but stainless is much harder to bend and drill through compared to aluminum. I quickly gave up on the stanless matls I had ordered. So, I used aluminum plate matl and stainless steel screws. All the aluminum mounting matl, I spray coated several times with an industrial grade rust resistant primer and enamel. Granted, use of these matls is much less an issue in freshwater/river sailing air environment. In the 5+ years in use, the mounting hardware is equal to when new the day it was installed.

Tef-gel also works well

Good recommendation using starboard to mount the panel and then attach mounts to the starboard to minimize corrosive effects mixing metals. There are panels that certainly do require a backing matl and starboard is a good choice to use. However, there are many panels that are constructed requiring no backing plate and while a backing plate could be added anyway, it then adds to the weight/construction and I chose to minimize what was not needed. My panel is made to slip screw heads into the support channel. All the mount supports are aluminum as is the panel channel. However, all attaching screws, bolts, wing nuts I used stainless steels. But as indicate above, those areas where stainless was used were painted with a primer and enamel since I knew some galvanic action may occur between the dis-similar metals. I have had no issues and the areas of dissimilarity are minimal and can be visually checked. There are other areas where dis-similar matls also appear such as mast and boom fittings, so this is nothing new. Just that instead of anodized aluminum, a rust preventative primer and enamel were used and that seems to be satisfactory so far.

Yeah but the OP was regarding the Ganz panels. Flexible, light, and without a frame. I hear you regarding alum etc, especially for framed panels, but I still think starboard is better choice for the Ganz series.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
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Response Posted - 10/20/2011 : 20:55:22

Ryan,

Not familiar with tef-gel . So...what is this stuff ?

Edited by - on

Ryan L
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Response Posted - 10/21/2011 : 11:04:06

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by OLarryR
 Ryan,

Not familiar with tef-gel . So...what is this stuff ?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Tef-gel is basically teflon that's made very thick. Sort of like teflon grease (but even thicker). It's widely used in boating, especially sailing, for dissimilar metals. Common areas of use include turnbuckle threads, mast fittings, and mounts like what was described in this thread. Extremely easy to use, inexpensive, and lasts for many years. You can get it at pretty much any boat store. I usually get it from West Marine.
http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor

Edited by - on

redeye
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Response Posted - 10/24/2011 : 10:15:12

Well .. I fabricated a frame out of Channel aluminum and it worked out so well I think I'll just make a mount rather than spending the money on a store bought mount.

Aluminum stock and rivets... pretty fun to work with.

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redeye
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Response Posted - 11/07/2011 : 06:55:55

It worked out really well.

6 watts, 19 volts.

I was able to read the volts on the meter, the watts reading is from the defender website. I guess I made a mistake in the origional posting saying 12 watt... I guess I'll have to go back to my paperwork and recheck it.

Gotta find a meter that reads watts.

Edited by - redeye on 11/07/2011 06:57:33

redeye
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Response Posted - 11/07/2011 : 07:20:38

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Ryan L
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Response Posted - 11/07/2011 : 12:12:43

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by redeye
 
Gotta find a meter that reads watts.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

or just read the amps and do the math...

Watts=Amps x Volts

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redeye
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Response Posted - 11/07/2011 : 12:15:25

Good Point...

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Voyager
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Response Posted - 11/07/2011 : 18:53:01

The watts are calculated using actual current in amps x measured battery voltage ( not short circuit current or open circuit voltage ) or about 12.4 to 12.6 volts
For example, if your panel measures 800 mA ( 0.8 A) at 12.5v, that's ~10W

Edited by - Voyager on 11/07/2011 18:59:07

redeye
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Response Posted - 11/09/2011 : 05:26:05

Ah hah.. so there is more to it than meets the eye ( Doh ) Thanks voyager, I don't understand lots but that helps..

I measured the open leads and got 19 volts and now get that that is the short circuit voltage, not the voltage it delivers to the battery, as it draws down once connected. ( one way to say it, not well )

My panel was reading 12.9.

My meter only reads up to 250 mA so I'm looking for another meter.

I'm guessing the message is don't read the output on the solar panel when it is not connected to the battery, the valid reading is when it is charging.

Thank You.

Edited by - redeye on 11/09/2011 08:49:39

Dave5041
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Response Posted - 11/09/2011 : 07:58:29

The amp output also changes with the charge of the battery. Think of electricity as water. Voltage is like water pressure that pushes water (amps) through a pipe (wires) and spinning a sprinkler is how much work (watts) it can do. If you connect a hose (Wire) to a tank (Battery) and turn on a faucet (Switch), the pressure (Volts) forces a lot of water flow (Watts). The amount of water that flows (Amps) decreases as the pressure in the tank rises (Resistance) until it stops when the pressure in the tank equals the pressure in the hose. Pressure is highest and flow is lowest when the tank is full and opposite when the tank is empty. You're not likely to ever achieve the advertised wattage output in a dynamic system like charging; the only thing that matters is if it keeps your batteries charged.

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