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Winterizing Johnson 9.9 HP Outboard

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waterbaby
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USA
168 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/16/2011 : 08:30:52

I've just finished winterizing the plumbing in the boat but the folks at West Marine advised me that I need to winterize the engine as well. They couldn't tell me exactly how to do it though because the weren't familur with my engine. Can anyone explain what needs to be done? I know one option is to remove it and store it at home, but I'm not sure I'll be able to lift it. It's a 9.9 Johnson longshaft (Sailmaster), I don't know the year but the boat is a 1986 and the engine may be the original engine that came with the boat. Thanks ahead of time for your advise.

1986 TR/SK #5250 Sunshine

Edited by - on

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 12/16/2011 : 08:58:08

I would do the following.
Disconnect the fuel line and start the engine and run it long enough to run the gas out of the carburetor. If the carb has a drain plug you can remove it to get the last bit of fuel out of the bowl or to drain it completely.
Drain the fuel line.
Get some "fogging oil" and pull each spark plug and spray some in each spark plug hole per instructions on the can. Replace the spark plugs. (This would be a good time to change the spark plugs if needed.)
Empty the gas can in your truck or car if you have a 4-cycle engine.
If you have a 2-cycle engine plan on cutting a lot of firewood.

If you cannot empty the fuel can add a fuel stabilizer like Stabil to it.
Spray the outside of the engine (not the cover) with a light lubricant such as WD-40 to ward off moisture.
Cover the engine if possible and go home.

Edited by - Sloop Smitten on 12/16/2011 09:00:30

aeckhart
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Response Posted - 12/16/2011 : 09:30:07

I have a 1988 Evinrude YachtTwin 9.9 outboard, the Evinrude version of your Johnson. This is what I've been doing every year for 23 years - disconnect the gas line, hang the motor on a rack in my garage until spring, and put a fuel additive in the remaining gas.

I do all my fluid changes in the spring. I haven't changed a spark plug in 15 years. I always clean and reuse them. My Evinrude has started the first time every season.

By the way, I live in Northern Michigan where winter temps are more often than not below freezing for 6 months. I'm not sure I'd maintain a newer 4-stroke in this fasion but then they don't make them like they used to in my opinion.

Edited by - aeckhart on 12/16/2011 09:30:58

OLarryR
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Response Posted - 12/16/2011 : 10:28:55

I have a 4 stroke 9.9 Honda. The winterizing already suggested pretty much covers it. The only thing to add is the yearly maintenance I perform and that is changing the spark plugs, oil filter, oil, fuel filter. I change the lower end gearcase oil every other year, though, it is reocmmended to do this every year in the service manual. I do this all dockside with the outboard onboard. I tilt the mootor up and it just clears the finger slip when adjusting my lines so that I can do the gear case oil. I have measured the amount of oil drained from the lower end and even though tilted, all the oil pretty much drains out. I then refill and put outboard in vertical and then check if I need to add addl gear oil.

This year my boat is out of the water for the winter season. This is first year I inspected the water pump impeller after 6 years in the water.. It looked okay but I changed it anyway.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
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Response Posted - 12/16/2011 : 10:44:34

Our winters are probably close to yours in NC. Our boat stays in the water throughout the winter and the motor stays on the boat. All I've done in the past 4 years is run the fuel out, just like I do during the summer, but I also have gone out to the boat occasionally during the winter and run the engine. I do not leave the prop in the water.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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Response Posted - 12/16/2011 : 20:27:52

I had a Johnson XLS 9.9, and the only thing I would add is to drain and refill the lower unit. Any water in the oil of the lower unit can freeze and crack the housing.
Water isn't supposed to get in, but doing this in the winter layup eliminates one potential risk.

Edited by - on

islander
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Response Posted - 12/17/2011 : 14:10:41

I would also add to the advise stated above that if you are in salt water you might want to flush the motor with fresh water. I put a muff on my Honda and run it for 20-30 Min. Then disconnect the gas line and let it run dry. I never keep the old gas, It goes into the car.

Edited by - on

waterbaby
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Response Posted - 12/17/2011 : 18:46:20

Thanks everyone, for your advice. I don't mean to show my ignorance but I don't know how to drain the lower unit(I'm not sure I really know what the lower unit is), nor do I know what a 'muff' is. I am smart enough to know what a spark plug and carborator is though and I've been running the engine to clear the fuel after every outing. So... Since the boat is in salt water perhaps I should flush it with fresh water and I'm thinking that draining it would also be good but how and what equipment will I need? I'm going to go see if I can find any videos in youtube. Thanks!

Edited by - on

dmpilc
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Response Posted - 12/17/2011 : 19:42:01

The lower unit is the bottom portion of the motor where the prop is. The oil there is called gear lube oil and has darker appearance and a thicker consistency than regular motor oil. If you have the owners manual it should explain the process, but here it is in summary. There are 2 screws with washers on one side of the lower unit that look similar. One is above the cavitation plate, the horizontal plate right above the prop. The other screw is much closer to the bottom of the motor. With the motor out of the water and a catch basin under it, the lower screw is removed first, then the upper one to allow air in as the oil drains out the bottom.
The fresh oil generally comes in a squeeze bottle now, with a conical cap, and is squeezed into the lower unit from the bottom hole. when it starts to come out the upper hole, remove the bottle and quickly replace the lower screw. Then replace the upper screw and you are done.
note: If the old gear oil has a milky brown color to it, like creamed coffee, you likely have a leak that is allowing water to mix with the oil, probably a bad seal. That should be fixed before adding new oil.

Edited by - dmpilc on 12/17/2011 19:49:36

Dave5041
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Response Posted - 12/17/2011 : 21:26:46

This is a flush adapter, or muff: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=441052&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50366&subdeptNum=50367&classNum=50375 Similar ones are available many places, even some Walmarts, for substantially less.
A garden hose attaches to one side (only open the faucet a little) and the muff has a spring clamp action so you can put it over the water intake and run the engine to flush the cooling system. I'm pretty sure you'll find a video someplace.

Edited by - on

Voyager
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Response Posted - 12/17/2011 : 21:40:10

If they are still available for your engine, you should get a maintenance manual. I have a Honda and googled the manual.
My standard routine for fall maintenance is:
1. Add Stabil to the gas and let the engine run out to clear the carburetor (making sure to have the engine in the water)
2. Change the oil and oil filter
3. Change the gear oil
4. Change the spark plugs or clean them
5. Fog oil the cylinders
6. Check and replace the water pump impeller
7. Rinse off or wipe with a wet rag any residual salty water or crust from the outside or inside of the engine.
8. Clean and coat exposed metal parts with WD-40.

I did my gear oil two weeks ago, and the air and the oil was cold. I found it flowed much better if I warmed up the tube of oil in warm water.

Edited by - on

GaryB
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Response Posted - 12/18/2011 : 20:05:49

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dmpilc
 ...The fresh oil generally comes in a squeeze bottle now, with a conical cap, and is squeezed into the lower unit from the bottom hole. when it starts to come out the upper hole, remove the bottle and quickly replace the lower screw. Then replace the upper screw and you are done...
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Not sure if one way is better than another but after filling until the oil runs out the top hole I always replace the top plug first. I've found that it reduces the amount of fresh oil that drips out before you get the lower plug replaced since the venting effect is cut off with the top plug in.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
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Response Posted - 12/19/2011 : 04:32:45

Agree with Gary B. You should replace the top plug first. It seems to slow the flow of oil out of the bottom plug as you fiddle with screwing in the bottom plug. Then after you get the bottom plug in, you can always remove the to0p plug and see if the oil level is still at plug level (starting to cover the threads). If not, you can add a little bit of oil in the top plug before resealing it.

There is more to this if you really want some details with the ins and outs of replacing the gear oil but the above posting(s) info really covers it.

The first time I changed the gear oil, I had one heck of a mess. The service manual (for my Honda) indicates you fill from the bottom by first attaching the Honda screw adapter that facilitates adding the oil. In the absence of having an adapter that screws into the lower port, most just get the gear oil in the squeeze bottle form and squeeze away as they provide moderate pressure to holding the nozzle of the squeeze tube in the lower hole. However, I found that as I squeezed the bottle, I would get to a point when the oil as it filled up the gearcase was then hard to keep it from dripping out the lower hole no matter how hard I held the squeeze bottle nozzle in the lower hole. So, after unsuccessful tries with the squeeze bottle using the lower hole, I screwed in the lower plug and made up some progessively smaller plastic tubes and then added the oil thru the top hole. This is not the preferred way because you could have some air bubbles caught inside and not truly have the gearcase full. So, after oil topped off, I then screwed in the upper plug and then cycled the outboard from the vertical to the tilting position and back. Then I removed the upper plug again and topped off the oil once again. I have had no problem doing it this way but it's not the recommended way.

The next time I changed the gearcase oil, I was prepared. I purchased the small Honda screw adapter that allows you to screw into the lower hole. I also purchased the gearcase oil in the quart container form with the screw cap similar to the plastic containers that motor oil comes in and then screwed on a small oil pump handle they sell to pump the oil in. I attached the pump plastic/rubber hose to the Honda screw adapter and pumped away. No mess. After oil was at level of upper hole, then screwed in upper plug. Removed Honda adapter from lower hole with very little oil seeping out and screwed in the lower plug. Then removed the upper plug once again and topped off the oil in that hole before screwing the plug back in.

So, there are a number of ways to do this gearcase oil changeout - Squeeze bottle thru lower hole, adding oil thru top hole but you may have air entrapment unless you take precautions against it or get an adapter and handpump the oil thru the lower hole.

Edited by - OLarryR on 12/19/2011 04:37:33

dmpilc
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Response Posted - 12/19/2011 : 08:45:42

I stand corrected. Replace the top screw first, then the bottom one. Then top off the oil from the top screw.

BTW, if you must do this over the water, get a very small inflatable kiddie pool and put that under the motor to catch any dripping oil and keep it out of the water. Same goes for changing engine oil.

Edited by - on

waterbaby
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Response Posted - 12/19/2011 : 20:37:54

Wow! Thanks for the details guys! I found a few videos of this but didn't really understand what I was seeing. I also watched one of the water being flushed out with a garden hose, but couldn't figure out how it was attached. This really explains it for me. I'm going to try to get someone to help me get the motor off - I've also been looking over some of the home made engine stands that people have been kind enough to show pictures of and explain. If I can't get that then I'll keep in mind the issue with oil in the water. I don't have a kiddie pool and I think it's the wrong time of year to find one, but maybe I can just use a bucket...? I didn't have a chance last weekend to do anything with the boat - it's about 2 hrs away and I only get down there on weekends. I've been chasing some water issues and hoping for one last sail. I guess it's time to pack it up though. I've got a lot of things to fix/improve before next spring starting with some fiberglass repairs and a keel cable replacement. BTW - I just got a quote from one of the trailer companies of $5k for a new trailer. Sure would be nice if I could bring the boat home for the winter so I could work on things a little easier but $5k is a bit much for me. Sigh...

Edited by - on

dmpilc
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Response Posted - 12/20/2011 : 08:57:27

I have a trailer available to rent, if you are interested. Check the Swap Meet forum: "Have trailer...".

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islander
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Response Posted - 12/20/2011 : 14:14:11

A bucket will work as long as its big enough to fit around the prop and tall enough to have the water intake under water. Put the hose in the bucket when the engine is running to keep it full and DONT put it in gear. Try a tall kitchen garbage can.

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waterbaby
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Response Posted - 12/20/2011 : 18:18:17

dmpilc, what an intriguing thought. I had not considered that I might be able to rent a trailer. I see that you are in TN which is not really very close although not impossible. I'll have to think about this a little and get back to you.

Islander, you mean (gulp) turn the engine on inside of a trash can? And I'd be doing this to flush the salt water out of the water cooling system? I know you said 'DONT put it in gear' but I have visions of my outboard plowing it's way down my driveway and possibly right over me. Sort of reminds me of the time I got run over by my brothers motercycle in our backyard. Are you sure this is safe? Consider that you are talking to an accident prone female...

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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Response Posted - 12/20/2011 : 19:59:20

It will work if the motor reaches the water - I used a curbside sized trashcan. A flush adapter is much easier, just clamp it over the water intake. Stay away from the prop, it will probably spin to some degree even in neutral.

Edited by - on

islander
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Response Posted - 12/21/2011 : 14:36:37

Yep, Run the engine in a trash can like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oZECTzFCYM& feature=related or heres one using a set of muffs like I do. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70jVeXJrVmE
The muffs or engine flushers are these http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=12519& catalogId=10001& langId=-1& storeId=11151& storeNum=50366& subdeptNum=50396& classNum=50401

Edited by - islander on 12/21/2011 14:41:49

waterbaby
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Response Posted - 12/21/2011 : 20:03:55

Thanks Dave and Islander - the videos look so much more tame than what I imagined and I really appreciate the fact that you took the time to look these links up for me. This forum is so helpful. I've been reading through other threads and the amount of information here is incredible. I'm glad I picked this a my first boat - I've got so much to learn and you guys have already taught me a lot. Thank you! Thank you!

Edited by - on

Sam001
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Response Posted - 01/02/2012 : 08:33:59

Happy New year. I agree that there is a great deal of knowledge of this site. We are all blessed to have this group AND all will share so you don't "get chased by the motor down the dirveway." Sam

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waterbaby
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Response Posted - 01/03/2012 : 19:44:37

Here's my update on the winterizing this weekend. Sorry it's a bit long but it's just too funny and I know you guys will appreciate it.

First off, the weather was wonderful and we couldn't see starting on the winterizing when we had a opportunity to enjoy a day of sailing. So we arrived at the marina with the intention of sailing for a few hours then starting on our winterizing tasks.

When we got there we discovered that the cotter pin that attaches the mainsheet blocks to the traveler had snapped. (How does that happen?) Some kind soul had lashed the boom down so that it didn't flail around. Bless them! We scavinged around to find a spare shackle and were able to resecure the mainsheet tackle to the traveler. After surveying things we decided we could still carry on with our plan to sail so we started out. We had somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 of a tank of gas and after some discussion decided that it was plenty of gas to get us out of the creek and into the river and back. It seemed like a perfect amount, just enough for us to use for the day, but not so much that we'd be wasting a lot since we planned to empty it anyway. So we motored out. At about this point we found that our battery was dead so we had no depth meter. No problem we said - we've sailed this river before and in any case we have a swing keel. No worries. :)

With me at the tiller still motoring, Mike (hubby) was trying to raise the main when he found that the boom vang was tangled around the mainsheet and the main could not be raised completely. After some excitement Mike was able to release the boom vang and re-attach it to get it straightened out. He determined later that on our previous trip out we'd raised the pop top and had inadvertantly connected the boom vang incorrectly when we put it back together.

Next we killed the motor and settle in to sailing when we ran aground. Ok - at this point we're healed over pretty good since we'd been on a nice beam reach with plenty of wind, so it was pretty exciting. Mike took over the tiller while I ran down the companionway and started cranking the keel up. Once we got free I lowered the keel again. Whew! Sure glad we have a swing keel! :)

We sailed for a few hours, mostly doing tacking and gybing drills for practice and it was wonderful, a 70 degree day and about 13 knots of wind. Beautiful! :) Then decided to head back to the marina to start working on our 'chores'.

As we were entering the creek with only the main, Mike tried to start the engine and it didn't start. At this point I was thinking we should have added some more gas to the tank. I was at the tiller and beginning to worry about the fact that he can't get the engine started. I was trying to keep the boat on a steady course in an area that I knew was shallow, meanwhile he's in my way, frantically pulling the the rope to get the engine started. I couldn't keep the tiller at the angle I needed it to be with him behind me at the motor. He was so busy trying to get the motor running that he didn't respond to my requests to move so I could turn the boat back out of the shallow area.

At this point I was sure that we'd run out of gas and was trying to remember where the seatow box that we've never activated was stored.

Finally though he got the motor running and I handed him the tiller and dropped the main - Whew! That was a close one. We got to relax for just a few minutes but then on the final approach to the slip just as Mike put the engine into reverse to back the boat into it's slip the engine sputtered out and quit again. Again Mike was frantically trying to get it started while I was standing on the bow with knees bent ready to leap in any direction to fend us off the dock and other boats.

Luckly Mike had been even more cautious than normal with his approach and so we didn't have much momentum. We just drifted for what seemed like forever, this time I was CERTAIN we'd run out of gas. But he was finally able to get the motor running just enough to get us into the slip. Whew again! Sailing is sure fun! :)

So after congradulating each other on making it out and back without killing each other or losing the boat we settle into our original tasks. We disconnected the fuel line, and ran the engine until it quit. We took the headsail and mainsail down (thanks to the discussion about how to lower the furling headsail we had a messenger line all ready). We took all the lines off the boat so we could wash them. After some discussion we decided to wait a few more weeks to lube the lower unit since we're planning on pulling the boat to replace the keel cable. We do now own a
'Muff' so when the time comes I think we'll be ready. We also bought a book on the engine which should help us figure out what's going on with the idle/reverse thing.

I don't know why I love this - I must be crazy.

Edited by - on

islander
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Response Posted - 01/04/2012 : 07:47:18

LOL... I think everyone of us has a story similar to that one and as long as nobody got hurt you will always have a story to tell and laugh about. Welcome to the wonderful world of sailing! It sounds like you have the right attitude.

Edited by - islander on 01/04/2012 07:50:17

Dave5041
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Response Posted - 01/04/2012 : 08:01:39

The world is a better place when we can laugh at ourselves, and sailing gives us plenty of opportunities.

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JohnP
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Response Posted - 01/04/2012 : 11:02:14

Congratulations, indeed! Great job handling those problems!

Here are 3 ways to lift your motor off the boat:

1. If you plan to use brute force to lift the outboard off the transom, and if you have fixed docks, not floating docks, then you can take advantage of the very high, high-tide during a full moon to get the motor up as high possible before lifting it the last distance. That's not possible with floating docks, however. I always attach a dock line to the motor to be able to recover it, in the worst case scenario, if I were to drop it into the water! But I've not had any problems when I've done this, maybe 10 times.

2. Previously I rigged up a sturdy, 9-foot tall, 3-inch diameter, aluminum pole as a derrick. I take off the mainsheet and the boom vang to use with this pole. The bottom of the pole is resting against a cushion or board on the base of the cockpit bulkhead to the side of the companionway and the top of the pole is held up over the motor at the transom by the main halyard extending down from the mast head by adding the boom vang block and tackle to the bottom end of the halyard. The main halyard is locked in place by the halyard clutch on the cabin top, and it supports about half the weight of the motor. The top of the pole is held stable sideways by lines to the port and starboard cleats. This pole forms a davit (a hoisting crane) that can be used to hoist the outboard up and onto the dock or finger-pier. I hang the mainsheet block and tackle down from the top end of the pole and this gives lots of mechanical advantage to hoist the motor. I tie a dock line around the outboard and with 3 short lines up to the mainsheet hoisting rig. Instead of this pole you could use a 10-foot long wooden 2x4, with a 1-inch hole in the top end to connect the 4 lines (up, down, left, right).

3. If you are taking the boat out of the water, you might have other options for removing the outboard, like help from the marina staff, or the use of a travel lift with its integral crane device.

After using method #2 for a few years, I discovered that a good high tide did most of the same work for me, and I could lift the 100+ pound Honda 9.9 up the last 6 inches to my fixed dock much more conveniently than by rigging up the temporary davit contraption,. So that's what I always do these days to remove or re-install the motor.

Good luck.

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