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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Sliding Hatch to Hatch Board Seal/Joint

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Mark Maxwell
Captain

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USA
329 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/19/2011 : 01:05:30

Merry Christmas All,

Doing some winter repairs and I'm stuck. I've replaced my old plywood hatch boards with a used set of teak boards. First thing I found was Catalina used a wide variety of angles used to fit these boards in place. They are not one size fits all (even with identical year boats). It took some time and careful cutting to get this seemingly simple task done. Now I've hit a spot where I may be over thinking the problem and need some fresh input....

The teak boards are much thicker than the old plywood and as a result the top board sticks out 1/4" aft of the slide top when closed. This creates a ledge that water will be able to accumulate. So I removed the front trim piece and made a spacer to hold the trim piece out flush with the hatch boards.

My problem is, if I cut a taper in the top board at an angle to drain water out, I'll create a large gap at the point the slide top and hatch board close. I'm thinking about cutting a shallow groove into the top end of the board, running the length of it, to direct water to the sides and down the companion way trim pieces. Any thoughts?

The boards all connect together with a step-cut type joint except at the top of the last board. How is this area mated to the slide hatch to keep water out?

Thanks for your input,

Mark-
'Impulse...�
1978 C25 #533 SR/DIN/FIN ~_/)~
Bakersfield, CA.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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3477 Posts

Response Posted - 12/19/2011 : 04:49:24

Why not taper only the 1/4" that sticks out from the slide top perhaps another 1/16" as well. Then you will have same basic fit that the original boards had with the slide top (original thickness fits snug) and then the thickness that sticks out past the slide top will have the taper so water will slide down the board rather than collect on top of it.

Edited by - on

Jan Briede
Navigator

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USA
162 Posts

Response Posted - 12/19/2011 : 10:43:06

I was thinking about just routing the edge.

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Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9087 Posts

Response Posted - 12/19/2011 : 11:42:41

The top of my upper hatch board, as I recall, was tapered so that it was horizontal when installed. When the slider was closed, it mated pretty closely to that top edge. That plus a little greater taper of the 1/4" that sticks out should make your companionway as tight as any, which is to say none of them are 100% impervious to wind-blown rain from astern.

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3477 Posts

Response Posted - 12/19/2011 : 16:00:18

Dave,

My top board (original) is basically horizontal/flat but when the slide top is positioned over it, the slide top actually goes just a bit past the top hatch noard preventing water from sitting on top of the top hatch board. I guess it is possible if the hatch board was made to a slightly larger thickness, then the condition that Mark has experienced could happen....though, I think my sliding top would still be positioned slightly forward even if a thicker hatch board was used.

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Mark Maxwell
Captain

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USA
329 Posts

Response Posted - 12/19/2011 : 17:34:38

My top board is cut with a near horizontal taper (may even be a bit aft) and mates well with slide. That's why I really didn't want to trim that angle much more. It would create a large gap for water driven rain from the stern to easily enter. I already had to place a wood spacer behind the teak trim on the slide to get the surface flush with the crib boards so the latch will work. I may just need to make a thicker one, keeping the angle the same and fill in the gap between the trim and the slide with 3M sealant. Or find a piece of 1/2" teak and make a new thicker trim piece....

Anyway, thanks for the replies. It helps to bounce ideas off this sailing community...This forum ROCKS !

Edited by - Mark Maxwell on 12/19/2011 17:57:41

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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4382 Posts

Response Posted - 12/19/2011 : 18:08:50

Mark, if by "side tabs" you mean the lip on both side that hold the hatch boards in place - I wouldn't trim them. I've seen several pix here where those tabs (being weakened) have cracked off - epsecially towards the top.

I don't blame you for wanting to leave well enough alone re the new boards. Perhaps the trim board on the sliding hatch is not original - and not the correct thickness? I made a replacement once - toughest part was finding the correct router bit to match the original bead.

Edited by - OJ on 12/19/2011 18:09:49

Mark Maxwell
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USA
329 Posts

Response Posted - 12/19/2011 : 18:44:05

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Mark, if by "side tabs" you mean the lip on both side that hold the hatch boards in place - I wouldn't trim them. I've seen several pix here where those tabs (being weakened) have cracked off - especially towards the top.

I don't blame you for wanting to leave well enough alone re the new boards. Perhaps the trim board on the sliding hatch is not original - and not the correct thickness? I made a replacement once - toughest part was finding the correct router bit to match the original bead.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Exactly OJ, you are correct. I was thinking about the slide tabs but that wouldn't work because they don't 'stop' the slide going aft (closed) only going forward (opening). Contact sliding aft (closed) is made at the forward edge of the slide top and the molded rim of the cabin top. It be easier for me to build up the front edge with a piece of king board then attach the teak trim piece. Routing the edge of the teak to match was not easy. I had to do that to one of the side trim pieces by hand...

The old plywood boards I think were original as the teak boards were an option not ordered with my boat (I'm not the original owner but I have the original commissioning slip from Catalina) I was amazed to find out how much thinner about they are about half the size of the teak ones.

Edited by - Mark Maxwell on 12/19/2011 18:45:55

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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4382 Posts

Response Posted - 12/19/2011 : 19:27:50

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Mark Maxwell
 
The old plywood boards I think were original . . . <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">You are most probably correct Mark. I made two sets of solid teak hatch boards to replace the plywood versions for my and a dock neighbor's C22s.

Star Board would be an excellent choice to shim out the trim board. Very very workable and tough. I think JD sells the most friendly sizes.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 12/20/2011 : 08:35:52

Meanwhile, keep the cabin top and companionway covered with a 6x8 or 8x10 tarp. Bungees to the winches or stern rail stanchions keep them nicely taught and the tarps protect your wood.

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