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C-25 Connection for electric start

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Mountaineer62
1st Mate

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USA
33 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/01/2012 : 18:02:25

Today's 55+ degrees prompted me to remove my old Evinrode 9.9 O/B. Corrosion, oxidation, PO setup created some unplanned removal issues. After unplugging the gas line, could not remove the electric connection to the engine; too many layers of plastic electrical tape. Had to cut the household-type heavy duty electric wire. In trying to remove the heavily-taped electrical connection to the motor, it broke apart. Anyone have any knowledge of a good replacement for the connection? How about a good "quick-connnect" electrical connection that is waterproof?
Thanks for any advice.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 01/01/2012 : 18:06:35

I use a trolling motor receptacle on the transom with the plug on the motor cable. It's waterproof, easy to connect/disconnect, and more than adequate current capability..

Edited by - on

sweetcraft
Admiral

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USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 01/01/2012 : 22:55:48

I discovered same problem and I chose to use the trolling motor connectors. I didn't use the receptacle but pulled the small connector and wire from the motor through the same hole with all the other lines and made the connection inside the stern storage area. The use of silicone grease makes it almost moisture resistant. This has worked for me for a long time.

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 01/02/2012 : 07:50:34

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by sweetcraft
 . . . I chose to use the trolling motor connectors. I didn't use the receptacle but pulled the small connector and wire from the motor through the same hole with all the other lines and made the connection inside the stern storage area . . .
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Jim, this sounds intriguing. I googled "trolling motor battery connectors" and found a couple of different products. Could you provide a link for the one you use?

Edited by - OJ on 01/02/2012 07:51:08

Alan Clark
Captain

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406 Posts

Response Posted - 01/02/2012 : 08:15:03

The first link is what we have on our boat even though it does not show the Male part:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=691968&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50842&subdeptNum=50870&classNum=50873

The second is what I would buy now from Defender, even though we have NOT had any problems with ours.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|1818199&id=1450028

Hope that helps....

Edited by - on

Mountaineer62
1st Mate

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USA
33 Posts

Response Posted - 01/03/2012 : 12:40:11

Thanks for input. I visited both West Marine and Defender sites. I like the idea of a connection in the cockpit with the electric cable using the same path as the fuel line. Just for clarification purposes, my thought would be to "hard-wire" the electric cable to the engine starter (waterproof it somehow) and use a "disconnect plug" such as viewed at Defender (item #204813; $40.99). Not sure any of the other Defender products would work. Does it make sense to hard-wire to the engine, at the current site where I broke the plug? Comments appreciated including suggestions on a less costly approach.

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JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 01/03/2012 : 13:27:35

My Honda 9.9 was attached by the PO directly to the starting battery in the cockpit locker, and I re-wired it to attach to a 1-Both-2-Off Perko switch so that I could charge the cabin battery using the outboard if I wanted.

To remove my outboard, I unscrew the Perko switch and remove the (+) wire with its circular connector and the (-) wire from the battery and feed the cable out through the transom to the motor.

It's freezing every day now on the Magothy River in Arnold, MD, so I guess I'll be doing that soon to bring the motor home for the winter.

I've sailed to St. Michaels & it's a fun trip.

In the summer some time when your boat's all ship-shape, you might want to do the opposite trip to visit the Magothy River and the nice anchorages and marinas here! It's about 40 miles each way and makes a good 3-day or 4-day weekend voyage. You can sail on either side of Kent Island, that is, north on the Chesapeake or north on the Eastern Bay to the Chester River and then west to the Magothy River.

Happy sailing.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 01/03/2012 : 17:11:55

This is what I used: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Minn-Kota-12V-Plug-and-Receptable/13437570. can be easily found for $25 - 30. $29.95 at Walmart. Permanently mounted by the motor on the transom - easy install and totally waterproof whether connected or capped. twist-lock for removing the motor.

Edited by - on

sweetcraft
Admiral

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USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 01/04/2012 : 00:12:25

I looked on line and found the 10 gauge wire connectors but it won't go on this msg. I have seen then at auto parts stores and in Wally. 10 gauge can handle 30 amps which starts my engine. Connectors are for trolling motors.

Edited by - on

Mountaineer62
1st Mate

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USA
33 Posts

Response Posted - 01/06/2012 : 17:18:21

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by JohnP
 My Honda 9.9 was attached by the PO directly to the starting battery in the cockpit locker, and I re-wired it to attach to a 1-Both-2-Off Perko switch so that I could charge the cabin battery using the outboard if I wanted.

To remove my outboard, I unscrew the Perko switch and remove the (+) wire with its circular connector and the (-) wire from the battery and feed the cable out through the transom to the motor.

It's freezing every day now on the Magothy River in Arnold, MD, so I guess I'll be doing that soon to bring the motor home for the winter.

I've sailed to St. Michaels & it's a fun trip.

Edited by - on

Mountaineer62
1st Mate

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USA
33 Posts

Response Posted - 01/06/2012 : 17:33:54

Thanks for the info.
Since the starter cable is sent through the transom, I am thinking instead, changing the cable run through the same access as the fuel line. This will mean a "quick connect" in the cockpit; not a bad solution.

I have sailed on the Magothy on any occasions; sailing out of Rock Hall. Have anchored near the "Schoolhouse"/Redhouse Cove; Dobbins Island; and, my favorite, the former Riverdale Restaurant. Would like to return; if I do I would look forward to connecting.

Bob

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5369 Posts

Response Posted - 01/08/2012 : 11:17:40

As Jim suggested, the amperage-carrying capacity should be an important factor in your choice of a quick disconnect for the starter. Check your owner's manual, but for my Honda 8 with a 60A starter current, I used Don Casey's "Sailboat Electrics" guide for picking the correct wire guage.

While 10 guage may be OK for a 30 Amp starter, 8 or 6 guage would be safer for many other outboards. Especially for starters, you don't want too-thin wire causing a significant voltage drop going to the engine. Inadequately-sized cable also causes hot-spots in the cable and connector.

On Passage, the engine cables are fed through a waterproof rubber boot in the transom to a 2-terminal block inside the quarterberth where the cables' circular connectors mate up with the cables running to the battery under the quarterberth. Here's a similar style at Defender: http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|49758|112306|299264&id=1481073 I assume "Stinkpotter" Dave Bristle installed this, to which I say thank you!

While it's not as quick as popping out a connector, it provides a very solid and well-protected connection for this critical circuit. I only connect/disconnect once a season, so its not a big deal. It's just one more step in a year-end ritual.

I also think that quick disconnects "invite" thieves. Sure they can cut #8 wire, but they need a bigger wire cutter.

Edited by - on

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