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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
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 Raising a C250 off the trailer
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britinusa
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5404 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/09/2012 :  13:30:09  Show Profile  Visit britinusa's Homepage
Several of us have been asking around for suggestions on how to do this.

The issue is to lift the boat sufficiently high enough to be able to lower the centerboard enough to be able to cut out a jammed turning ball. (with the intent of replacing the glassed in turning ball with the replacement option kit sold by CD)

This would require the boat stern to be raised about 12" above the trailer's centerboard support.

Keeping the boat strapped to the trailer at the front end could maintain stability.

But that requires having access to a pair of boat stands.

I had thought of making a pair of A frames out of 4x4s and plywood and then bolting a tow strap between them such that it acts like a sling to support the stern. Then the trailer could be jacked up, the sling put in place, lower the trailer, bolster up the aft most part of the bunks, repeat and raise the sling height.


Alternately, I could use a pair of chained stands with a rise of, say 18" would suffice to lift the boat from the trailer. Just put them in position and crank them up leaving the bow sitting on the trailer's bow bunk and the boat strapped to the trailer at the bow.

Obvious concerns would be the stability of the boat as we would need to work under it between the hull and the trailer.

Anyone done anything like this?


Of course, the easy way would be to have a crane lift the boat onto stands for a couple of hours.

I may just have to bite the bullet and trail the boat to a DIY marina, get it lifted onto stands.

Paul

Joint Decision. (Sold)
PO C250WB 2005 Sail # 841.


Moved up to C34 Eximius

Updated August 2015

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Turtle
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2012 :  14:10:15  Show Profile
I am in the process of replacing the glassed in turning ball using the CD kit. I have a backhoe, so I used the backhoe and a strap to lift the bow of the boat, blocked it, slid the centerboard forward and out (I need to replace the cable raising system which broke thus starting this project, and do some work on the centerboard) and set the boat back down for now. I may have to remove the bunk which provides centerboard support to get enough access to the turning ball.
I know, not everyone has a back hoe, but it made lifting the boat easy. While i didn't try to topple the boat off the trailer, it seemed well supported with the boat sitting on the back bunks and blocked at the bow.

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zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1314 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2012 :  18:17:53  Show Profile

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I have a backhoe, so I used the backhoe and a strap to lift the bow of the boat, <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

My concern is the point load on the hull at the back end of the bunks when the bow is sufficiently lifted off the trailer to work on the centerboard... or not to worry... the hull is strong enough to withstand this force?

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dubedoo
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68 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2012 :  16:26:30  Show Profile
This may be a little off subject, I realize that trailer setups are different (I have a Trailrite Trailer)I haven't needed to work on the turning ball and I may be missing something here....but I have removed the centerboard 4 or 5 times for various reasons (painting, shimming, fiberglass work) and have not had to lift the boat from the trailer to do so. If I needed to work on the turning ball and the centerboard was in the way I would remove the centerboard by:
1. Jacking up the trailer tongue with the tongue jack
2. Installing blocks/jacks under the tongue/frame for safety
3. Loosening the centerboard (4 bolts) & disconnecting the lifting line from the centerboard
4. Pulling down on the forward end of the centerboard
5. Pull the centerboard out forward - under the trailer tongue/frame.

Someone else introduced this procedure on the Forum some years back (6 or 7 years ago). The first time that I removed the centerboard I did jack the bow of the boat up off the trailer bunks. I much prefer just jacking the tongue of the trailer up and slipping the centerboard forward. The first few times I did this by myself. The last time I had someone else help me reposition the centerboard back under the boat.

Steve
C250 WB #702



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britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 01/11/2012 :  04:53:18  Show Profile  Visit britinusa's Homepage
Steve, could you post some pics of your trailer showing the area fwd of the centerboard.

We have a Sail King Trailer with the mast raising beam in front of the bow.

The last time I worked on the centerboard, I jacked up the bow bunk. I was able to move the board forwards enough to be able to do a fbg repair to the spindle area, but could not have reached up inside the aft end of the cb box to reach the turning ball (not enough joints in my back and arms )

Paul

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dubedoo
1st Mate

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68 Posts

Response Posted - 01/20/2012 :  08:25:14  Show Profile
Hi Paul,

Did you get the photos that I emailed you? I know they weren't the best.....but were what I had. If received, were they helpful and did they answer any questions for you?

Steve
C250 WB #702

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britinusa
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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 01/20/2012 :  08:49:23  Show Profile  Visit britinusa's Homepage
Got them Steve,
Slightly different trailer (bow roller -v- bow bunk) and side bunk guides along the centerboard base.

But we're going to try the method you suggested, similar to our original but simpler.

Thanks.

Paul

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 01/20/2012 :  11:18:48  Show Profile
Paul, to use boat stands to "crank up" the boat, you'll need to find stands that are truly vertical, not angled away from vertical. Otherwise, the contact point on the hull will shift as you crank, likely gouging the hull.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 01/20/2012 11:22:33
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slaedlein
1st Mate

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USA
51 Posts

Response Posted - 01/30/2012 :  19:32:36  Show Profile
I used Steve's published method and it worked like a champ. However, I have noticed some small spider cracks on the inside of the hull where the bunks terminate. Recommend using small pieces of plywood in those locations to spread the weight.

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