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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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head questions

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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/22/2012 : 10:20:16

Two questions, in order of priority.

1) I'm replacing my head, switching from a 30 year old Groco HE to a Raritan PHC (already purchased). Are the bolts that hold the head down going into any sort of backer? How do you get access to the back of them? It seems like an inaccessible portion of the liner.

I ask because if the bolts use machine threads I don't want to lose the nuts on the other side, and if they are lag bolts I want to know where I can safely used them on the head's shelf. The bolt pattern between the two heads isn't identical.

We have the dinette configuration if that matters for bolt access.

Changing the head is my last project to make the boat ready for full day sails. I'm not looking forward to the work, but I'm looking forward to having a toilet that works.

2) My wife and I have talked about removing the sink as one of our longer term projects, and getting back the storage space of a hanging locker. I know that this is a common thing to do, but I couldn't find good photos last night to see what the hanging locker configuration looks like. Could people share their photos, especially if they've done the conversion?

alex

Alex W
Seattle, WA
Express 37 "re-Quest"
previously owned 1984 Catalina 25 "Lutra"

Edited by - on

awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts

Response Posted - 03/22/2012 : 11:09:38

I double checked the parts manual and it looks like Catalina used 1/4" x 1" lag bolts. I'm guessing that either screwing into the fiberglass is strong enough or that there is a plywood backer beneath the shelf. Is this what others have encountered?

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Joe Diver
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1218 Posts

Response Posted - 03/22/2012 : 11:29:15

I tackled this project last spring. I replaced my old original head with a Jabsco unit.

No, you cannot get to the underneath. The original is bolted down with heavy lag bolts. It's a pretty solid platform. I think it was designed with lag bolting the head in mind.

I went a step further and cut a 2x6 to fit the bottom of the compartment. I bolted the head to the 2x6, countersinking them for a flush fit. Then I drilled 4 new holes in the base and lag bolted the head in place. This gave me 2 things: A more stable footing for the head, and it lifted it up a bit so I'm not so squatted down using it. (I'm 6'3)

I also replaced the sanitation line to the tank and the fresh water intake from under the V Berth. The tank vent line was serviceable so I left it alone. The new sanitation line was somewhat fiddly and difficult to work with, and it took immersion in boiling water for a few seconds to soften it enough to slip over the fittings.

The whole shebang took me most of the day, but the only things not replaced were the waste tank and vent line. A functioning marine head is a necessity for me.

I mulled over going with a porta potty, but chose to go ahead with the marine head system. I see you've already bought your new head so that decision has been made.

Here's a picture of my hanging locker....only one I have but it should show you what you need.

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awetmore
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1144 Posts

Response Posted - 03/22/2012 : 13:44:47

Thanks Joe, that is all very helpful.

In the photo there is a white line coming down from the upper left corner of the closet. It makes it look like the space is larger than I think it is...that is just a random line (rope), not the inside corner, correct?

Did you remove the vanity, or did your boat come with a locker originally? I'm wondering if the liner is any different, or if removing the vanity is trivial. I will look more closely next time I'm on my boat too.

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Joe Diver
Master Marine Consultant

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1218 Posts

Response Posted - 03/22/2012 : 13:55:14

I think that's just a line hanging down. The locker is decently deep. The bottom of the wood partition, you see the screws holding the bottom on....those screws screw into the fiberglass and the bottom of the locker is just above the screws.

Mine came with the locker. I would <i>assume</i>, due to manufacturing simplicity, the locker/sink area would be just the same, only difference being the wood partition for the locker or the installation of a sink with plumbing.

In any case, I'm sure it's probably a very simple mod to do.

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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts

Response Posted - 03/23/2012 : 05:53:15

I replaced the toilet yesterday after work. It was a dirty job, but went pretty smoothly and took a bit over an hour (reusing lines for now, they seem to be okay). The shelf appears to be about 1/4" of fiberglass over plywood and was easily drilled out to the new bolt pattern. Thanks for your help Joe. It is nice having a functioning head.

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Ape-X
Admiral

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USA
662 Posts

Response Posted - 03/23/2012 : 07:01:02

WOW, 1hr, fantastic....I refurbed our head last summer, it took the better part of an entire day: bought gasket material and made new, cleaned all componenents, and had to figure out why it wasn't working and collapsing a hose. Turns out the ball check valve had been deformed INTO the fitting (aparently due to some zealous flushing with the directional valve in the wrong position?)

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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts

Response Posted - 03/23/2012 : 08:16:15

This was with a brand new head. So I had to disconnect two hoses, remove the old head, position the new one and locate mounting holes, drill new holes, seal old ones, install 4 bolts and 2 hoses. I did go through 6 pairs of nitrile gloves and a lot of cleaning products keeping everything in good shape. I thought about servicing my old head, but it was in pretty bad shape with a lot of corroded brass and I figured it would be better to start fresh. I believe that the old toilet is 28 years old, just like the rest of the boat.

The Raritan PHC (and probably PHII) water hose comes in from the bottom, so a right angle fitting would make for a much nicer hose run. I'll replace the clean water hose sometime down the road and add one of those.

I do not have a vented loop after the 3 way valve and before the thru-hole, even though I should for saveuse. We don't plan on sailing far off shore though, so I will keep the 3-way valve going to the holding tank and leave the thru-hole closed. There is a proper ball valve on all of our thru holes.

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Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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844 Posts

Response Posted - 03/23/2012 : 16:21:25

Stick a 90 ell on it or the hose could kink.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3797.0.html

Just did it yesterday!

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Joe Diver
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1218 Posts

Response Posted - 03/24/2012 : 06:57:46

My Jabsco has an adjustable inlet connector....just loosen up a few screws, then turn it to whatever angle the hose is coming in at. I believe the sanitation line was that way as well.

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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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1144 Posts

Response Posted - 03/24/2012 : 07:21:20

On the Raritan PHC the sanitation line is adjustable like that, but the input line just points straight down. I bought a 90 and a box of hose clamps yesterday and will fit it. I also need to fix the galley sink drain so that it doesn't have a kink either.

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