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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Stupid questions of the day - Tiller Tamer Screw

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JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/05/2012 : 11:51:44

OK, it's time for another (or several) of my infamous stupid questions. I purchased a used Tiller Tamer, and it didn't have the "enclosed mounting screws" mentioned in [url="http://www.davisnet.com/marine/products/mar_product_docs.asp?pnum=02205"]the instructions[/url]. I know they need to be stainless steel wood screws, but what's an appropriate length? Clearly, I don't want something that's going to stick out the other side of the tiller, but is a 1" screw sufficient? The tamer shouldn't experience "rip the tamer off the tiller" kinds of forces (except when I stumble into it), so my thinking is that a 3/4" to 1" screw should be OK. I'm concerned because I've read about tillers that snapped at various times, and I don't want to impact the structural integrity of the tiller by drilling a fairly big hole in it. I'm just guessing, but it seem like the more contiguous wood, the better.

Also, for those who have installed tamers, did you to a typical "rebedding", or just install the screws? I was wondering if there would be concerns about moisture migrating into the tiller and not being able to evaporate due to the finish on the tiller (and the tiller cover).

Finally, the bottom of the Davis Tiller Tamer has what appear to be stand-offs. I didn't see it referenced anywhere in the online instructions, but are you supposed to counter-sink around the screw holes to allow those stand-offs to seat better?

I had hoped to do the install at home and then take the tiller and rudder to the boat with everything ready to go. But in looking at pictures of my stern (one of which is below), I see clam cleats already installed on the transom that look like they were there for a previously-installed Tamer (though my current tiller doesn't have one).

- Jim
Formerly of 1984 C25 named Dragon Wing

NOTE: In my case, PLEASE don't confuse stars/number of posts with actual knowledge. On any topic.

Edited by - on

awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2012 : 12:33:18

The PO on my boat had just used standard wood screws. When I moved the Tiller Tamer to my new tiller I used about 1" #10 stainless screws with a flat head. My Tiller Tamer already had countersunk holes, but I don't know if that was original or not.

I also installed the Tiller Tamer under the tiller to keep water from easily getting into the screw holes and for a little cleaner look. I don't see a big difference in turning the knob if it is on the top or bottom of the tiller.

I need to add the cam cleats, my Tiller Tamer lines are just tied around the ends of the traveler rail.

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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2012 : 13:28:52

No help on the tiller tamer, but you should be thinking about taking that tiller off and giving it a good inspection, then refinishing it. Also, your traveler lines should likely be braided line rather than 3-strand. I have never seen 3 strand used there.

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JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2012 : 13:47:02

The tiller went through a thorough refinishing over the winter. It seems sound (of course, only time will tell for certain!). Thanks for the note about the traveler lines! What makes braided line better in this case? The smoothness of the movement?

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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2012 : 13:50:49

Are the 3 braid lines nylon? If so a polypro based rope (like Samson XLS) will have much less stretch which makes the traveler system a lot more effective.

1/4" or 5/16" Samson XLS in this length doesn't cost much, so there isn't a major downside to not replacing them.

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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2012 : 14:09:15

You have plenty of wood thickness so a 1" or 11/4" should be fine. Mine are flat head Phillips. On the bottom where the 2 screw holes are, Yes those are standoffs to keep the tamer slightly raised off the wood so air will circulate under it and moisture will not be trapped between the tamer and the tiller. Don't countersink for those. Putting some caulk on the screws is a good idea.I mounted mine on the top of the tiller, It just seemed more natural when adjusting the tension and your going to find that you will do it frequently. Mine uses 2 clam cleats in the aft corners. You can see one in this photo. Your going to love the tamer and wonder why you didn't have one before. Very handy.

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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2012 : 14:13:42

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> What makes braided line better in this case? The smoothness of the movement?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Yep and little stretch, Three strand stretches.

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Joe Diver
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1218 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2012 : 15:17:19

I installed a TillerClutch last weekend....the forces on it aren't that great. 1" wood screws should work just fine. Think that's about what mine came with.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2012 : 17:03:54

If you don't want to install separate jam cleats for the tiller tamer lines, secure them to the stern cleats. you will want to use low stretch line.

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2012 : 17:22:58

My tamer is on the bottom and I used bedding on the screws. With the loads and line length on the traveller, I don't bother with tech lines. !/4" Sta-set has a 2000 lb breaking strength and 1.8% stretch at SWL. A 4' line would stretch less than an inch with a 400 lb load. Sta-set X would would stretch about 1/2" with a 540 lb load. My traveller is rigged 2:1, so that would be a max of 1/4" or 1/2" of traveler movement if I could ever reach a load like that.

Edit: <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">you will want to use low stretch line<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I'm pretty sure that the included line is braided nylon and stretches a bit to reduce shock loads.

Edited by - Dave5041 on 04/05/2012 17:28:47

jerlim
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1484 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2012 : 18:39:55

My preferred connector in this type application is a SS pan head machine screw...can't beat the all-thread shank - it actually allows for a shorter screw, just need the proper diameter pilot hole...

Edited by - jerlim on 04/05/2012 18:41:06

JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2012 : 19:58:05

Thanks for all the replies! It's too late for me to head out for the screws tonight, but I'll stop tomorrow. Hopefully I'll be in the throws of making a tiller cover some time next week!

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