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Breaker switches

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NCBrew
Captain

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USA
338 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/11/2012 : 07:24:11

I am trying to build a new electrical panel. I have some parts but I cannot find lighted breaker switches. My present switch panel has fuses. I want switches / breakers and lighted indicators.. Please send me the URL for breakers and switches. Any ideas are appreciated. I need a electrical schematic if you have one.

Thanks

1998 Catalina 250WK
Ravaging
Albemarle Sound,NC

I spent most of my money on boats and beer, the rest I just wasted.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3463 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2012 : 08:40:56

I have details on my website of the new BEP 8 switch/circuit breaker panel I installed which is accesible from the cockpit, so I do not have to go into the cabin and look for and switch on the nav and steaming light switches on the old panel located under/between the steps. I went with the BEP panel (made in Australia) because at the time I was researching panels, I liked the way the switches were somewhat recessed and the inner working of the panel had the smallest footprint allowing install under the sink area and not coming into contact with the sink. As an addl safeguard, I sed thick insulation tape on the underside of the sink where the panel comes closest to it. Even so, with the tape, I estimate the panel has about a 1/4" - 1/2" clearance with the thick insulation tape and it is only the inner edge of the panel that comes closest, not the bulk of the panel. At the time of working this install, I purchased the BEP panel from a US distributor - Boaters World. Boaters World use to have a store in our area but they closed their stores and then were selling products only thru the internet. I have not checked in a long time if they still are open for business but the panel can probably be purchased thru other US distributors. It is not exactly the cheapest panel out there but it worked for me and quite happy I went with it.

The new breaker panel, gives you options for lighting the panel. The wire for lighting the panel is hooked up to one of the switches and when that switch is "on", then the leds for all the switches lights up. I hooked up the panel light leds to the cabin switch. So, when that switch is turned on, the panel lights up. My nav and steam lights are the first two switches which can be easily felt from the cockpit area and no light needed to locate and turn them on. The cabin light switch i normally have off unless in the cabin but that switch could be left on with cabin lights all off if it is desired to keep the panel leds lit. I also have two fans hooked up to a fan switch which is just below the cabin light switch but I have not labelled that one yet. The panel did not come with a "Fan" label and I do not think I will spend the dough to get the set of labels only for a fan label. I have a label maker at home with vinyl coated labels - I just have to get around to making the label and taping it onto that switch. By the way, the panel leds light up the label names on the panel and when the switches are turned on, then the round hole next to the switch name label lights up believe "green" to know that it has been switched on. Here are some photos:

Edited by - OLarryR on 04/11/2012 09:04:10

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2012 : 10:08:22

Wow! Kudos Larry!

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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5372 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2012 : 19:04:54

Larry,
I see you don't have a position set up for
(a) deck lights,
(b) accessory or
(c) panel main on/off switch.
My power panel has these additional positions.

I have my FM radio and my deck-mounted 12V lighter plug wired to the deck light switch, and my depth finder and speedo connected to the accessory switch.
My VHF is powered when the boat panel switch is on.
Likewise, my galley 12V lighter plugs are similarly connected to the main panel on/off switch.

Obviously, aside from the safety requirements (Nav lights), your power setup is largely a personal choice.

I based mine on the wiring diagram included in the original user manual, Fig 4.2.5.
Look in the "Manuals and Brochures" section of this website for more information.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3463 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2012 : 21:04:00

Bruce,

Actually...I do have most of the addl you mentioned. I failed to indicate that my old panel is still functioning and still basically hooked up as originally except for the moving of loads to the new panel.

You are right...my new panel and setup is mainly based on a personal choice. The old panel was located in a standardized location under the steps that is out of the way but not very accessible especially during the twilight hour when having to switch on the Nav lights. If I had a say in it's location when boat was built, I would not have located it under the steps because in practice it is hard to get to by guests and single handed sailors.

Clarification on available switches/loads:

Deck lights - On my new panel, the labels they provided (without purchasing one of the optional label sheets they also can provide) had a label for "Mast" Light....that's the circuit breaker switch just below my "Steaming" light switch. So..I used that - That's the Deck Light.

VHF - On my old panel, I have a switch I labeled "VHF" for my base VHF radio.

Accessories - I have a switch for my accessories on my old panel. That's for an existing 12 Volt adapter socket and two addl ones I added in the cabin to facilitate 12 volt sources close to where one sits/lies down in the cabin. Also, I use a portable boom box (rarely). It generally runs off of "C" batteries but I installed a separate wire quick disconnect to it so it can also play off one of the 12 Volt sockets and one of the sockets is just inside the companionway so it will enable the boombox to run off the boat batteries and be used in the cockpit.

Fishfinder - My fishfinder also runs off the accessory switch on the old switch panel.

Why the old switch panel - It works fine ! Just that it is not in the most convenient location especially for the nav & steaming lights which need to be in a better, more accessible location especially for single handed sailors...or for guests ...that do not have night vision. When I go onboard, the first thing I do is turn on the accesory switch for operating the fishfinder and sometimes the VHF switch (but oftentimes use my portable VHF instead). So, those switches are not really a hassle onboard usng the old panel - It's before I start sailing and stay on till I am back at the dock. But I always have the option to move these loads onto the new panel if desired. Between the new and old panel.....I now have more than double the original switches provided....but I doubt will ever have a need to use them all..and may not use any addl since my present setup works okay for me.

Another big important safety reason to partially unload (or replace) the original panel is that on my boat and probably some others on this Forum have same issue - The original switch panel no longer serves well for the modern era. (These days we have so many addl electronic gizmos to operate.) PO installed addl wires onto existing already used switches on the original panel using adapter "Y" terminals which are dangerous. The addl loads hooked up to these "Y" terminals ("Y" terminals basically allow two loads instead of one to be attached to a single switch terminal) tend to come precariously close to the positive main hard wired lead in the old panel and result was that when I wanted to use my VHF or say the accessory plugs, they would work without turning on the switch !!! That is because there were so many terminals bundled together behind the old panel, that they made direct connection bypassing the switch !!

New panel install...got things back to normal in the old panel by reducing loads hooked up to it...and now functioning as originally intended without an abnormal number of addl terminals/loads hooked up to it.

Edited by - OLarryR on 04/12/2012 04:08:56

Ape-X
Admiral

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USA
662 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2012 : 04:28:11

another set-up: criticize or comment as desired.

I have a single battery: The position 1 on the battery switch powers the original panel: steaming, lights, anchor lights etc... the position 2 delivers power to a fuse panel only (no switches) which powers all aux items with an on/off switch: VHF, radio, fans, gps. Both position allows everything to be used.

The fuse holder was an inexpensive alternative and the on/off of all the items connected allow selective use.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3463 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2012 : 05:01:01

For a one battery set-up and using the battery switch for a fuse circuit to run accesories...hmmm ! I have to think about that for awhile but I like the idea that you have a convenient way to deal with having a fuse in-line for every auxiliary load without having the fuse separately installed in each positive lead. You use a fuse holder with all fuses centrally located. Interesting !

Edited by - on

Prospector
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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2012 : 05:58:53

I also installed a second panel - possibly it was Larry who gave me advice at teh time. I don't recall.

In any case, I was going to rebuild the Catalina panel, but then I found a 6-gang panel for $40.00 (+/-) at the binnacle.com and it was cheaper than the parts for a DIY panel.

Writeup and photos are on the blog here: http://littleboatiris.blogspot.ca/2012/03/success-in-stereo.html

It was surprisingly easy to wire everything to the new panel since the bayonette connectors all matched - you just pull off one panel and plug into the other. You will need to make up labels though since they never seem to include the ones you want in the kits.

I still have to make a better mounting panel for the new power panel, but Iam in no hurry. When I make it I will put a master power switch on it with an idiot light next to it. I prefer that over a lighted switch since I can replace either component when it fails. Also, a switch will fit in a hole made by a 3/8" drill where as a toggle switch needs a rectangular hole which is less idiotproof.

Edited by - on

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2012 : 10:35:49

BLUE SEA SYSTEMS
ST Blade Fuse Blocks

From West Marine

another idea. Something I've been planning but haven't got the round tuit yet. Also still looking for a stereo that does not want full time power to hold the digital presets.

I'm adding the positive ( it is switched on the main panel ) jumper and ground the one of these.

That way I have power all the time when the main is on to accessories that have their own power switch.

Putting this on the bulkhead next to the main power panel, on the dumpster side. small, easy way to add circuits that don't need independent switches.

You add your positive lead and you get fused positive connections for each circuit on the sides, and connect your ground and you have a ground buss bar on top.. very nice setup.

Like for a car. Out of view and I don't expect shorts.

Edited by - redeye on 04/13/2012 10:43:03

Joe Diver
Master Marine Consultant

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1218 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2012 : 10:41:36

Here, use mine and get busy:

Edited by - on

redeye
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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2012 : 10:50:26

Yepper.. gotta finish adding the winches, rebedding the port aft cleat, replacing the refinished cushions, changing out the engine and rebuilding the 84 engine, adding the new clutch and deck plate, new halyard, new holding tank, replacing gas tank... hatchboard slides, outboard bracket, flag halyard..

All the while road biking just about every weekend..

80 miles last weekend...

I'd in no hurry.. IFFin I finished up I wouldn't have an excuse to get away from the Grlfrnd who is training for a full IronMan..( and draggin me out to train also )

This weekend I'm workin on the boat...

Edited by - on

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2012 : 11:01:30

BLUE SEA SYSTEMS
Rib Insulator Independent Connectors

From West Marine

Also this is another method I'm using for additional circuits. I have my accessory circuit ( fused and switched from the main panel ) wired to one of these on the head side of the bulkhead with a clear tupperware fabricated cover over it. With the jumpers it allows me to add additional accessory circuits without wiring all the back to the panel. You wire positive lead to one end, ground to the other and jumpers running in to the middle, giving you potentially 5 circuits added to the circuit. 3 positive jumped sets of screws on top and three jumped sets on the bottom.

You would not want to draw over 5 amps so 3 would probably the limit, but they keep coming up with stuff that draws so little..

I've used this to add a cigarette lighter plug just inside the forward hatch for a cell phone charger and as a plug for the handheld spotlight for someone on the bow.

Edited by - redeye on 04/13/2012 11:06:00

Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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844 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2012 : 18:24:43

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by NCBrew
 I am trying to build a new electrical panel. I have some parts but I cannot find lighted breaker switches. My present switch panel has fuses. I want switches / breakers and lighted indicators.. Please send me the URL for breakers and switches. Any ideas are appreciated. I need a electrical schematic if you have one.

Thanks
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

There are many ways to do this, but the West Marine or Defender catalogs are great starts.

You should also check, in addition to those ideas mentioned, Blue Seas.

There's another good vendor: Seaward, the guys who made the OEM panels.

Edited by - on

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