Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
As reported recently, by NicroVent stopped working this spring, and I am missing it sorely. It really kept the boat dry as a bone.
I purchased the vent last summer, so I don't think West Marine will allow me to exchange it (although I think I still have the receipt).
So I checked for a replacement battery and I found out that my model requires a "C" size NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) as opposed to the older Nickel Cadmium battery. I've got all the rechargeable AA size NiMH's I want in the 2400 mAH size, but no C-size batteries, except alkalines. C-size typically deliver about 5000 mAH or so (if memory serves).
I googled the gosh durned C-sized battery and found they are about $25 each plus $7.95 S&H. Somebody seems to be making a bundle on these.
I was wondering whether anybody knows whether you can parallel two AA's and fit them into the same space as a C-size. Has anybody been able to do this in their own units? I'd appreciate your sage advice.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
Bruce, There's no reason you couldn't do as you suggested. [url="http://www.amazon.com/C-sized-Adapter-Shells-AA-Battery/dp/B000855034"]In fact some battery manufacturers make cylindrical tubes in C & D sizes that an AA will fit inside.[/url] Seems like it would be fairly easy to solder the ends of two AA or AAA batteries together to give you some more amp hours.
Or, you could check out [url="http://www.all-battery.com/csizeseriesnimhrechargeablebatteries.aspx"]All-Battery.com[/url]. I've bought a bunch of batteries from them and been pretty happy with them. You can buy a single C size NiMH for about $5 from them. I've been trying to replace all my batteries with rechargeables over time, and they make really nice chargers.
Big computer stores have those batteries as well. MicroCenter in my area has them but if Walmart has them then that's where I would check first for lowest cost. Automatically save on shipping cost.
Thanks all I'll check the specs on the C battery amp-hours as suggested. As mentioned, often AA will be used in place of C-size in an adaptor. In this case, performance suffers since the C-size Ampacity is needed to run the fan overnight and on cloudy days.
Bruce had a different idea than just using a AA to C adapter (that would give you the capacity of the AA battery). He wanted to fit 2 AA batteries into the space of a C, wire them in parallel, and thus get the combined capacity of the AA batteries, which would be similar in capacity to the single C.
I don't think that this will fit without modifying the vent. The AA batteries are 14.5x50.5mm and the C is 26x.2mm x 50mm. Since the C isn't more than 2x the diameter of the AA you couldn't fit 2 AA in the same space.
You could probably fit 3 AAA in the same space, but that will only give you 3000mah capacity, which isn't much better than a single AA.
It looks like there are many options for NiMH C cells on Amazon for under $10 for 2. It doesn't seem like it pays to get creative here.
Here's what happened with the fan. One weekend last spring it was running ok, the next weekend it was rotating slowly in full sun. The next time I stopped by, I could spin it by hand and it would slowly spin, then stop. Now it's dead. I suspect that the battery has failed, but this symptom could also be due to a bad solar panel or a faulty charging component. Frankly, the easiest repair would be the battery. If it were the panel I'd have to scrounge a solar light panel that would fit. If an electronic component, all bets are off. I can troubleshoot 0.1" components, but with surface mount wave-soldered components, fergit it!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Voyager</i> <br />Here's what happened with the fan. One weekend last spring it was running ok, the next weekend it was rotating slowly in full sun. The next time I stopped by, I could spin it by hand and it would slowly spin, then stop. Now it's dead. I suspect that the battery has failed, but this symptom could also be due to a bad solar panel or a faulty charging component. Frankly, the easiest repair would be the battery. If it were the panel I'd have to scrounge a solar light panel that would fit. If an electronic component, all bets are off. I can troubleshoot 0.1" components, but with surface mount wave-soldered components, fergit it! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
OK - I asked because ours runs like a trooper as long as the sun is out. Once the sun quits, so does the fan. To me, my symptoms sound more like a dead battery than yours do. But thats just me.
My understanding w/experience regarding the old Nicros with Nicads vs the new Nicros with the NiMH battery is that the old Nicros w/dead battery run in sunlight but the new ones do not...unless you remove the battery. So, to check out if it is the battery on the new ones - You need to remove the battery and then play with the pushbutton to make sure it is iN the"On" position. If the Nicro does not run then it's the Nicro Vent and not necessarily the battery. But chances are it is just the battery. However, I had a new Nicro that stopped running and removing and replacing the battery with a fully charged one, the Nicro still did not operate. Nicro replaced it under the warranty since it stopped dUring first year.
I opened my vent up today. The C size battery was fully charged and was clearly marked at 2800 mAH, not 5000. I checked the voltage at the battery and it was sitting at full voltage. When I spun the motor by hand, it seemed to be binding. I removed it from the housing and found the circuit consisted of the solar cell, a battery, an on/off switch, a resistor to regulate the motor's battery current drain and the motor. Pretty simple.
I took a can of carb cleaner and shot the motor's spindle, spun it up by hand for a while, then shot it with WD-40. I spun the motor some more. I replaced everything, then reinstalled the battery. After it sputtered for a while, the motor began running faster and faster until it came back to normal.
I reinstalled the fan back into the vent housing, and it began working - as usual. It's amazing what a shot of WD-40 will do!
Two years ago, when I first got my boat, I wanted a Nicro solar vent. However, when I went to buy one from WM, they told me there were none to sell because Nicro had recalled all of them due to a defect in the battery or solar cell (can't remember which). With all the problems I have heard people having with them, I'm glad I didn't get one.
Rick, I took your advice and picked up one of those. Can't wait to actually get shore power so I can test it out! So far, the Nicoro has done well on my boat. No damp smell when I went aboard on Thursday, or over the previous few weeks from when it was installed.
Since we have the luxury of shore power, we've used a [url="http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product2_11151_10001_100586_-1____ProductDisplayErrorView"]West Marine dehumidifier[/url] pretty much since the boat was new. Keeps everything nice & dry. The price has about doubled since we got ours it seems. We actually have two, one inside SL & one inside Rita's ancient Mercedes. The seals leak and we get way too much water inside the car, so the heater helps to keep it in check. It's a losing battle though, so we also have chemical absorbers as well. Dry-eez or something like that.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by delliottg</i> <br />Since we have the luxury of shore power, we've used a [url="http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product2_11151_10001_100586_-1____ProductDisplayErrorView"]West Marine dehumidifier[/url] pretty much since the boat was new. Keeps everything nice & dry. The price has about doubled since we got ours it seems. We actually have two, one inside SL & one inside Rita's ancient Mercedes. The seals leak and we get way too much water inside the car, so the heater helps to keep it in check. It's a losing battle though, so we also have chemical absorbers as well. Dry-eez or something like that. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> David,
I read somewhere that the WM "dehumidifier" that you linked is actually just a heater with a fan. (Note that it's in the "Portable Heaters" section of their website.) If you have pools of water somewhere (like in a bilge) it will evaporate them with heat and air motion, but in a sealed off space like a car it actually adds to the humidity of the air. That may be why it doesn't work in your Mercedes.
The dehumidifier that I showed actually removes water into a pan. One of my projects for this summer is to drill a hole in the pan and run a short tube into the sink, so it can run perpetually without having to empty it.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by delliottg</i> <br />...one inside Rita's ancient Mercedes. The seals leak and we get way too much water inside the car, so the heater helps to keep it in check. It's a losing battle though, so we also have chemical absorbers as well. Dry-eez or something like that. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Car cover?
Ray You have got to pull the motor completely out of the housing. I applied WD-40 to the spindle end of the motor as well as into the two little holes on the opposite end using the red "straw" on the spray can nozzle. Not sure how long the fan will run, but if it should ever stop, I'll spray it again!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JimGo</i> <br />Rick, I took your advice and picked up one of those. Can't wait to actually get shore power so I can test it out! So far, the Nicoro has done well on my boat. No damp smell when I went aboard on Thursday, or over the previous few weeks from when it was installed. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> FYI, this evening I drilled a hole in the bottom/back of the pan, and glued a hose barb with a dab of 4200. As soon as it cures, I will attach a Tygon tube that runs to the sink. I could just set the thing in the sink without a hose, but I have an electric faucet and don't want to risk accidentally turning it on and dousing the electrical connector with water. So instead I have a large patch of Velcro that sticks the front of the unit to my galley shelf. It's always held through the steepest heel I've experienced. I keep the unit back-out to facilitate a good view of the water level in the tank, and to make it easy to remove the tank when it needs emptying. With the hose attached, neither of these latter things should be necessary.
FYI, I also have two electric fans moving air around the boat to prevent stagnant moist zones and keep any moisture moving to the dehumidifier.
After 3 years of reliable operation, my tiny dehumidifier pictured above stopped dehumidifying. Although the fan worked, no humidity was coming out of the air. I felt the cooling fins and they weren't cool. I felt the external power brick, and although it was powering the unit, it was barely warm - a sure sign that the Peltier device was not drawing any juice.
During the storm last night, my thermometer/humidity sensor went as high as 80% RH, which it had never done before when the dehumidifier was working properly.
I brought it home and put it on the Kill-a-Watt meter and it was only drawing 5 Watts (vs. the typical 60-70 watt draw). I opened up the box and tested the voltages at various contact points. The power supply was providing 12v to the Peltier wafer, but clearly it has stopped accepting current.
This exact model is no longer available, but I ordered a very similar replacement, since I've been happy with this method for controlling humidity in the slip. I had rigged a flexible tube to dump the humidity down the drain, and I'll do the same for the new one.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.