Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
OJ, use the block you pictured, placed about 12" back from the gooseneck, and bring the line back to a clamcleat that will retain the line when it is not cleated. Both would be mounted under the boom. If you want to bring the outhaul line back to the cockpit, place your block right behind the gooseneck and bring the line down to a turning block at the base of the mast.
Do you really need an exit block, couldn't it be simpler and cleaner to just cut a slot and leave it at that? Dremel buff the burs and edge and be done with it.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by pastmember</i> <br />Do you really need an exit block, couldn't it be simpler and cleaner to just cut a slot and leave it at that? Dremel buff the burs and edge and be done with it. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I'm thinking he'll need an exit block as the line will be making a 90 degree turn downwards. Having just a slot at the turn wouldn't be good.
It would have helped if I posted the diagram below. Couple of differences (1) I am bringing the line out of the boom just behind the gooseneck (then, as Don explains, down the mast and back to the cockpit) (2) Using wire instead of line from the clew to the aft fiddle (3) the forward fiddle will be attached to the boom bail I am adding (a result of moving the traveler to the front of the cockpit.)
I'll be the first to admit that a 5:1 is a tad silly for a C25. There is more friction than I anticipated - so easing the tension for light winds may not work so well. I may end up changing to a 2:1.
It's still fun envisioning, positioning, drilling, filing, fastening, staring . . .
The guy I raced with last night uses a pivoting lead block with cam cleat, instead of the cleat I pictured above, in addition to your exit block, so the outhaul line hangs down in the cockpit within easy reach. Works like a charm. Similar to this: In the 2nd drawing above, this would replace D and block E.
This can also be used to set up a double ended main sheet.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dmpilc</i> <br />Someone educate me here, how do you install padeye A in the diagrams above inside the boom? Is it through the exit block cut-out? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">If I were using an <i>eyestrap</i> I'd probably use some combination of string and a coat hanger to manuver in into position.
It looks nice. I would recommend rounding out the corners in the notch on the top of the slot though, those could act as stress risers and start a crack in the future. It's unlikely to turn into an issue, but I like to be as careful as possible with aluminum.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.