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 Replacement reefing block on boom
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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/10/2012 :  17:52:55  Show Profile
The bearings on the original "Seaway" reefing block are pretty rough. Believe Seaway has long since gone out of business.

Has anyone researched/replaced this?


1989 C25 TR/WK, #5822
1973 McVay Minuet 19
1975 Jester 12
1981 C25 SR/SK, #2428
1981 C22 SR/SK,
Tanzer 16
Sunfish

"There is nothing, absolutely nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Kenneth Grahame

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skrenz
Captain

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USA
351 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2012 :  00:55:30  Show Profile
I replaced mine with a harken 132 cheek block if we are talking about the same block. This is plenty strong enough. If your reefing line size is 5/16" or smaller, you could use a harken 092.

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Davy J
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1511 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2012 :  04:15:01  Show Profile
My boat did not have reefing hardware when I purchased her. I added Harken 092.

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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2012 :  04:48:59  Show Profile
http://www.mauriprosailing.com/Harken-40-Carbo-Blocks/HAR2644.html

I went with this on the deck, rather than a full organizer. I like the softer edges and I'd like to replace the seaway on my boom with this.

Not sure about the curved backing yet, guessing they have a backing or base for mast/boom attachments but I just have not seen it yet.


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redeye
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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2012 :  04:55:14  Show Profile
http://www.mauriprosailing.com/Harken-29-Carbo-Blocks/HAR350.html

looking at using smaller line and smaller footprint so I may go with the 29mm. I just get tired of looking at that big block on the boom and don't want to do it again.


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redeye
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Response Posted - 05/11/2012 :  05:06:23  Show Profile
http://www.harken.com/pdf/4171.pdf

I've never understood the need to run the lines back to the cabintop for reefing. I think for my location, ( inland lake ) I'll just attach the forward bitter end to the boom and reef from the aft with the bitter end coiled and tied to the boom.

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skrenz
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Response Posted - 05/11/2012 :  09:32:10  Show Profile
The bigger question for me, and one that I have not figured out yet, is what to do at the clew when you have two reef points. If you set the placement of a single cheek block for the first reef, when you put in the second reef the whole thing binds and you end up with bad sail shape. Two cheek blocks and associated lines gets rediculous. But when the time comes that you need this second reef, that's just when you want things working as smoothly as possible and you don't want to be jumping up to grab the reef clew cringle.

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OJ
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4382 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2012 :  09:53:29  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by skrenz</i>
<br />. . . what to do at the clew when you have two reef points. If you set the placement of a single cheek block for the first reef, when you put in the second reef the whole thing binds and you end up with bad sail shape. Two cheek blocks and associated lines gets rediculous . . .
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Believe this is why some boats have the cheek block mounted on a track on the boom.


Edited by - OJ on 05/11/2012 09:56:42
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redeye
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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2012 :  10:16:22  Show Profile
I always thought you'd have a small snap shackle at the aft bitter end, to unsnap and run through the 2nd reef. and why the forward line was cleated at the front of the boom, to make it easy to run it through the 2nd reef.


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