Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Happy new year to all. Our sailing season is just kicking into high gear down here in the U.S Virgin Islands. Loving every minute of it. I was wondering if anyone can recommend a good source for new Genoa cars to fit my 1980 tr/fk. I measure the track at 1" wide but I vaguely remember some posts about it being a difficult size to find new cars for. I am also considering replacing the tracks. They are dinged in a couple spots making it difficult to adjust the cars. Any sources and ballpark prices on this would also be appreciated. Also is it worth the effort, it is more for aestetics than function. That sure is a lot of fasteners to deal with. Thanks, Shawn
Last spring, I replaced my genoa track cars with cars from Catalina Direct. These were Garhauer http://garhauermarine.com 1" Single block track cars and they look good, but more importantly, they're probably the cheapest(least expensive) track cars you'll find.
Prices from Garhauer are(and I believe CD prices are the same):
3/8" line = $33.88ea 1/2" line = $37.51ea 5/8" line = $48.50ea
They also have the low lead cars, but I don't particularly care for them because they don't swivel. When I bought my boat it had low lead cars that were inoperable. A diagonal groove had worn in the plastic sheave of the cars due to the entry/exit angle of the jib sheet. This groove, which went all the way to the axle, prevented the sheave from turning. These cars are now mounted to my now adjustable bimini top.
Shawn - on my '81 TRFK it is impossible to remove the port genoa track. If you get into the port "warehouse" locker and look forward in the gap between the hull and bulkhead, there is a metal "frame" that blocks access to the genoa track bolts - you can see 'em, but you can't get to 'em! Hope this helps! Does anyone else have this set-up? Derek
Gee, thanks for reminding us how nice it is in the USVI. More snow last night, temp in the low 20's. Oh well, at least I was able to go to a local Jamaican restaurant yesterday & fantasize....<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>Good luck with the car search; I too have used Garhauer replacements, and they're good. Try them at www.garhauermarine.com
Welcome aboard!! Dont throw out the old ones just yet. Last year I revealed the source of a fabricator in Long Island, NY who manufactured replacement sheaves.
He also replaced the worn outpieces of my genoa cars, they are now as good as new at a fraction of the cost for new! Contact me at frich1230@aol.com if you want his name and number
<b>"I replaced mine with model 32-77 Twin Sheet Blocks from West Marine." - Albert</b>
A pair of those cars cost $240.00, and being a rather frugal person(read cheap bastard!), are a bit more than I would want to spend. I checked my CD bill and I paid $35.00 each for the Garhauer's.
Does anyone have a problem with jib sheet chafe with the low lead cars because of the sheet angle going through these non-swiveling track cars, especially if they have to be set close to the winch(like directly next to it)?
Don Lucier, 'North Star' C25 SR/FK On the hard, 200ft from Lake Erie
I just bought the Garhauer leads for $33.88 each from special orders at westmarine so I could get my westadvantage points as well. I love them so much (and you really don't need anything bigger on a little boat like ours!) that I turned around and have a new mainsheet and boomvang on the way!!
Patrick Burnett, Little Rock, AR S/V Lucky Star #2707 1982 SK/SR
Don L. - may I ask why your cars are so far back? Are you running a 180 Genoa? On "This Side Up" the optimum placement with a 155 is just aft of the aft lifeline stanchion...with about a 3-hole variation depending on the wind strength. Derek
Don, I just ordered to identical 4:1 purchase systems identical to the original C25 setup. I'm like you (real cheap bastard) and didn't want to incur the cost. Plus, after thinking about it, I like the options I have with the topping lift. I'm just really going to enjoy having nice ball bearing blocks on everything. Now if I can just get the CDI furler to rollup easier without having to cough up the $100 price tag for the ball bearing upgrade.
Derek, I agree, my placement over the last four years of running a 155% have been around 3 holes back from the "gate" stantion forward of the coming. Sometimes for an light upper wind I've moved them up a little past that stantion and vice-versa for light lower wind, i've moved it back closer to the winch, but these instances are rare!
Patrick Burnett, Little Rock, AR S/V Lucky Star #2707 1982 SK/SR
<b>"May I ask why your cars are so far back?" - Derek</b>
My cars are not that far back. They are, if my memory serves me correctly, one hole aft of the last lifeline stanchion(in the vicinity of the "genoa" label).
I was just asking the question with regards to the twin sheet(extra wide sheave) non-swiveling cars. To me, these cars don't offer a wide range of movement along the genoa track in relation to the horizontal sheet angle. If one used this type of car with a smaller jib, the sheet coming off the winch would angle outward to the fixed block on the car then angle back inboard to the sail. This, to me, would cause the sheet to rub against the edge of the block or diagonally across the sheave instead of riding directly on the sheave. This type of twin sheet car was on my C25 when I purchased it and there was clear evidence(a deep worn diagonal groove in the plastic sheave from the sheet rubbing acrossed the sheave instead of in the direction of rotation) that this wasn't the proper car for my boat's application due to the horizontal sheet angle. <img src="http://www.boatus-store.com/items/large/339435.jpg" border=0>
Don Lucier, 'North Star' C25 SR/FK Cradled on the hard, 200ft from Lake Erie
Patrick, I like the Garhauer stuff for a few reasons. Most importantly is price. I don't think you can find anyone with better pricing. Another reason is the 10 year unconditional guarantee. Does anyone else have that? It's hard to beat the price and the guarantee. And lastly, I like the look of their stuff. The gear has that high-techie modern look to it. Oh,...have I mentioned their prices! <img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle>
Don Lucier, 'North Star' C25 SR/FK Cradled on the hard, 200ft from Lake Erie
Sorry Don - when you said "right next to the winch" I figured they were much farther back on the track...<img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle> Derek
Sorry, poor choice of words on my part. What I was trying to do was compare the flexibility of the two styles of cars with my point being that the standups cars have a more useable range along the entire track.
Oh, BTW, would a 180 genoa be considered a blooper?
Don Lucier, 'North Star' C25 SR/FK Cradled on the hard, 200ft from Lake Erie
I don't know what it's called - but if you got hit by a strong gust then blooper would probably be a good name for it! <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> Derek
So has anyone had experience using a taller genoa car with a larger sail? On my boat the halyard rubs the fiberglass between the car and the winch. This is due to the sail size 155 which was not original way back in the early 80's. It is extra friction I do not need-and is also rubbing-burning a hole in the boat. I have bought new self tailing winches to install this spring and they will probably go right where the old ones are.
<b>"...On my boat the [jib sheets] rubs the fiberglass between the car and the winch. This is due to the sail size 155 which was not original way back in the early 80's. It is extra friction I do not need-and is also rubbing-burning a hole in the boat. I have bought new self tailing winches to install this spring and they will probably go right where the old ones are." Mike</b>
It seems you have a couple of options. You could go with a 135% genoa that will put the track car more forward on the track. Or, you could try using a track car with a taller standup block. Another idea might be to put a teak pad beneath the winch to raise it and maybe raise the sheet off of the coaming.
Don Lucier, 'North Star' C25 SR/FK Cradled on the hard, 200ft from Lake Erie
Mike, If you've got a sheet coming across the coaming and wearing a hole in the edge. You can buy strips of stainless specifically made to prevent that. They're about 1/2" wide and several inches long, slightly curved across the width to lay along an edge with a screw hole at each end. I forget what they're called though.
<b>"You can buy strips of stainless specifically made to prevent that. They're about 1/2" wide and several inches long, slightly curved across the width to lay along an edge with a screw hole at each end. I forget what they're called though." - John</b>
Thanks for all of the advice. I shopped around and decided to go with the Garhauer, both because of the price and because of all the recommendations from this site. I will be installing them and hopefully be sailing with them this weekend. Thanks again, Shawn '80 tr/fk #1960
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.