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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
This spring I want to pull my boat out and do a bottom job. I have a 1987 wing keel that lives in a slip at Lake Mead. I would like to strip (sand?) all the old coats off and start fresh with something that will prevent blistering and be slick enough I won't get killed in the the club beer can races. I've seen alot of posts regarding epoxy barrier coats with the bottom paint applied over that. Is this the way to go for blister protection? Also is sanding the best way to remove mult. layers of old paint, or should I be looking into chemical strippers? I planned to use a power sander. Thanks for any help.
Nate Adams C25 #5695 WK/SR/Trad "Heeling Properties" Lake Mead, NV
<b>"I've seen a lot of posts regarding epoxy barrier coats with the bottom paint applied over that. Is this the way to go for blister protection? Also is sanding the best way to remove multiple layers of old paint, or should I be looking into chemical strippers? - Nate</b>
Hi Nate,
If you are going to do a complete bottom job, you might as well put an epoxy barrier coat on it to help prevent hull blisters. Putting the barrier coat on doesn't really add that much more work and it doesn't cost that much to do. It's also a good selling point if you decide to move on. I would try sanding first to see how effective that is , but I would pass on the chemical strippers and only use them as a last resort,...a very last resort!
Anyway, I was in your shoes last January and here is what I did. My bottom paint was thick and in very poor condition. It was so bad that when I put a sander to it, the sandpaper clogged almost immediately. I don't like chemical strippers due to the mess and, from what people have posted on this forum, they are pretty useless. I ended up using a pull type two-handed scraper and carefully scraped off the multiple layers of thick, crackling antifouling paint. After the bulk of the paint was removed this way, I then used my orbital sander to finish the paint removal and bottom prep. When the hull was fully prepped, I used VCTar as a barrier coat followed by the smooth VC17M antifouling paint. When I pulled the boat this fall, the bottom looked great.
If you do a search on "epoxy barrier" and enter "Douglas" in the Search by Member option, you should find a bunch of posts on his bottom job. Some of these posts included photos of his progress.
Don Lucier, 'North Star' C25 SR/FK Cradled on the hard, 200ft from Lake Erie
I'm in the process of refinishing my C25 throughout, including the bottom. I agree with Don on the approach to take. Stay away from chemical strippers. Use a pull type scraper for the rough stuff and finish off with an orbital to get rid of the rest. Don't use a grinder with a sanding disk no matter how tempting it appears. Those things can crater a fair hull in no time. Stay with the orbital and work the grits up from 60.
BTW, I'm using Interprotect 2000 epoxy barrier coat and VC17m on my boat.
I am told that an epoxy barrier coat is one of the best investments you can make to protect the hull from osmotic blistering... realizing of course that some hulls without barrier coats never blister! I have also heard that Catalina started employing barrier coats around 1987 or 1988 but I can't verify that.
We hired out the same job you're preparing to do on our '87 wing keel. We brought the boat to a good yard and they hauled it and sand blasted the bottom down to a bare hull. Instead of sand, though, they use softer materials like walnut shells. Interprotect 2000 to the required thickness and then 3 coats of Interlux Micron Extra (an ablative paint), with the first coat being a different color as an indicator for when the outside coats are wearing thin. It cost a lot- over 2K, but it was sure nice to get the boat back with a new bottom. I'm sure you can do a good job yourself, though, if you don't mind putting in the work. We had a hard epoxy antifouling paint on there from the previous owner that was built up to incredibly thick levels- we are definitely pleased with the ablative paint that is on there now. Very little work to freshen up in the spring.
osmepneo came with vc offshore on the bottom and for the first season worked great <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>, but the second season I had a barnacle factory. So bad at the end of the season that I couldn't make headway against an unfavorable current.
The challenge was getting rid of all the barny's. First I used a power washer to remove most of them, then I sanded with an 8 hole random orbital sander and sanded and sanded. When finished the bottom was fair, and I saw no reason to take it off. So I painted with a contrasting color using Interlux Micron Extra with Biocide. No build up in two years and it requires very little maintenance in the spring.
Altho a friend at the club suggested painting in the fall so that it wouldn't be a major project keeping the boat on shore when the season started.
On another boat the dpo just added new paint to the old bottom and had built up a bottom with 6-8 coats, sometimes even differnt colors. It was a project and half to remove it. Sanding, scrapping, and finally chemicals. Nothing worked. Finally I discovered, recommended by a racing friend, chemical that you cover with paper after its on and then let sit for 24 hours, I think. Two or three applications worked well and removed most of the build up. than it was time for the random orbital sander.
That boat was dry sailed so I repainted with same paint I was using on the topsides.
Don Peet c25, 1665, osmepneo, sr/wk The Great Sacandaga Lake, NY
Hi Nate,This is my first post on this page.Also very new to sailing.I purchased a 1998 250 WK ,tall rig back in Oct.Keeping the boat at Lake Mead also,(Callville Bay).There was no paint on the bottom of boat.I am having the Exoxy coat and paint job done at this time.cost:about $2000.00.cya ,TLJ
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Stay with the orbital and work the grits up from 60.
BTW, I'm using Interprotect 2000 epoxy barrier coat and VC17m on my boat.
I used a finishing sander with 80 grit throughout which gave very good results. I also used Interprotect 2000 and VC17m - great product combination. Good luck.
when I refinished my 22 I bought a Bosch random orbital sander from Home Depot. I think it was about 60 or 80 bucks. It has a large handle in front, in addition to the main handle. Made a big difference. I also hooked it up to my shop vac. You can buy dust bags for shop vacs made for drywall and fireplace dust. Worked great. I also got a $40 respirator from 3M, and a full face shield. You don't want to breathe that crap. I coated my swing keel with Interprotect 2000. That's great stuff. when it cures it is solid as iron. I finished with Micron Extra with Biolux, as slime is our biggest problem on our pulluted lake. Frank
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.