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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 General Sailing Forum
 Epoxy barrier/ bottom paint questions.
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nate
Navigator

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240 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/08/2003 :  19:31:06  Show Profile
This spring I want to pull my boat out and do a bottom job. I have a 1987 wing keel that lives in a slip at Lake Mead. I would like to strip (sand?) all the old coats off and start fresh with something that will prevent blistering and be slick enough I won't get killed in the the club beer can races.
I've seen alot of posts regarding epoxy barrier coats with the bottom paint applied over that. Is this the way to go for blister protection? Also is sanding the best way to remove mult. layers of old paint, or should I be looking into chemical strippers? I planned to use a power sander. Thanks for any help.

Nate Adams
C25 #5695 WK/SR/Trad
"Heeling Properties"
Lake Mead, NV


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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 01/08/2003 :  20:57:38  Show Profile
<b>"I've seen a lot of posts regarding epoxy barrier coats with the bottom paint applied over that. Is this the way to go for blister protection? Also is sanding the best way to remove multiple layers of old paint, or should I be looking into chemical strippers? - Nate</b>

Hi Nate,

If you are going to do a complete bottom job, you might as well put an epoxy barrier coat on it to help prevent hull blisters. Putting the barrier coat on doesn't really add that much more work and it doesn't cost that much to do. It's also a good selling point if you decide to move on. I would try sanding first to see how effective that is , but I would pass on the chemical strippers and only use them as a last resort,...a very last resort!

Anyway, I was in your shoes last January and here is what I did. My bottom paint was thick and in very poor condition. It was so bad that when I put a sander to it, the sandpaper clogged almost immediately. I don't like chemical strippers due to the mess and, from what people have posted on this forum, they are pretty useless. I ended up using a pull type two-handed scraper and carefully scraped off the multiple layers of thick, crackling antifouling paint. After the bulk of the paint was removed this way, I then used my orbital sander to finish the paint removal and bottom prep. When the hull was fully prepped, I used VCTar as a barrier coat followed by the smooth VC17M antifouling paint. When I pulled the boat this fall, the bottom looked great.

If you do a search on "epoxy barrier" and enter "Douglas" in the Search by Member option, you should find a bunch of posts on his bottom job. Some of these posts included photos of his progress.

Don Lucier, 'North Star'
C25 SR/FK
Cradled on the hard, 200ft from Lake Erie

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CatalinaGuy
1st Mate

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USA
55 Posts

Response Posted - 01/08/2003 :  21:34:35  Show Profile
I'm in the process of refinishing my C25 throughout, including the bottom. I agree with Don on the approach to take. Stay away from chemical strippers. Use a pull type scraper for the rough stuff and finish off with an orbital to get rid of the rest. Don't use a grinder with a sanding disk no matter how tempting it appears. Those things can crater a fair hull in no time. Stay with the orbital and work the grits up from 60.

BTW, I'm using Interprotect 2000 epoxy barrier coat and VC17m on my boat.

Doug Hibberd, 'Shiraz'
C25 SK/SR 1983
Austin, TX

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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 01/08/2003 :  22:15:52  Show Profile  Visit Douglas's Homepage
Use an 8 hole orbital sander. Makita or Ryobi make good ones. Addapt the sander to a double filtered 5 to 8 Hp shop vacume. I used 80 and 60 grit paper to strip of several layers of bottom paint. Be carefull what paint you purchase. Many have up to 25 %solvent. Go to this site and do your home work http://www.epoxyproducts.com/berrier4u.html
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2dd04b3127cce9d4cdfa8ce610000005410" border=0><img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2dd04b3127cce9d4cdf96ce5f0000005410" border=0><img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2dd04b3127cce9d4cdf974f6e0000005410" border=0><img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2dd04b3127cce9d4cdf94ce5d0000005410" border=0>

Doug&Ruth
Triska (Alberg 29)
Tacoma Wa.

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Douglas
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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 01/08/2003 :  22:16:55  Show Profile  Visit Douglas's Homepage
www.epoxyproducts.com

Doug&Ruth
Triska (Alberg 29)
Tacoma Wa.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 01/08/2003 :  23:09:06  Show Profile
Nate,

Check out this article "Paint the Bottom Yourself" by Tom Wood that I found at the Sailnet website.

http://www.sailnet.com/collections/articles/index.cfm?articleid=woodto029

Don Lucier, 'North Star'
C25 SR/FK
Cradled on the hard, 200ft from Lake Erie

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allencl
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USA
143 Posts

Response Posted - 01/08/2003 :  23:43:25  Show Profile  Visit allencl's Homepage
I am told that an epoxy barrier coat is one of the best investments you can make to protect the hull from osmotic blistering... realizing of course that some hulls without barrier coats never blister! I have also heard that Catalina started employing barrier coats around 1987 or 1988 but I can't verify that.

We hired out the same job you're preparing to do on our '87 wing keel. We brought the boat to a good yard and they hauled it and sand blasted the bottom down to a bare hull. Instead of sand, though, they use softer materials like walnut shells. Interprotect 2000 to the required thickness and then 3 coats of Interlux Micron Extra (an ablative paint), with the first coat being a different color as an indicator for when the outside coats are wearing thin. It cost a lot- over 2K, but it was sure nice to get the boat back with a new bottom. I'm sure you can do a good job yourself, though, if you don't mind putting in the work. We had a hard epoxy antifouling paint on there from the previous owner that was built up to incredibly thick levels- we are definitely pleased with the ablative paint that is on there now. Very little work to freshen up in the spring.

Good luck!



-Chris on "SPIRIT" C25 SR WK #5644

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osmepneo
Past Commodore

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USA
1420 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2003 :  06:20:39  Show Profile
osmepneo came with vc offshore on the bottom and for the first season worked great <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>, but the second season I had a barnacle factory. So bad at the end of the season that I couldn't make headway against an unfavorable current.

The challenge was getting rid of all the barny's. First I used a power washer to remove most of them, then I sanded with an 8 hole random orbital sander and sanded and sanded. When finished the bottom was fair, and I saw no reason to take it off. So I painted with a contrasting color using Interlux Micron Extra with Biocide. No build up in two years and it requires very little maintenance in the spring.

Altho a friend at the club suggested painting in the fall so that it wouldn't be a major project keeping the boat on shore when the season started.

On another boat the dpo just added new paint to the old bottom and had built up a bottom with 6-8 coats, sometimes even differnt colors. It was a project and half to remove it. Sanding, scrapping, and finally chemicals. Nothing worked. Finally I discovered, recommended by a racing friend, chemical that you cover with paper after its on and then let sit for 24 hours, I think. Two or three applications worked well and removed most of the build up. than it was time for the random orbital sander.

That boat was dry sailed so I repainted with same paint I was using on the topsides.


Don Peet
c25, 1665, osmepneo, sr/wk
The Great Sacandaga Lake, NY

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TLJ
Deckhand

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USA
3 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2003 :  22:21:28  Show Profile
Hi Nate,This is my first post on this page.Also very new to sailing.I purchased a 1998 250 WK ,tall rig back in Oct.Keeping the boat at Lake Mead also,(Callville Bay).There was no paint on the bottom of boat.I am having the Exoxy coat and paint job done at this time.cost:about $2000.00.cya ,TLJ


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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2003 :  03:06:46  Show Profile
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Stay with the orbital and work the grits up from 60.

BTW, I'm using Interprotect 2000 epoxy barrier coat and VC17m on my boat.

Doug Hibberd, 'Shiraz'
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>

I used a finishing sander with 80 grit throughout which gave very good results. I also used Interprotect 2000 and VC17m - great product combination.
Good luck.

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Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2003 :  07:18:24  Show Profile
when I refinished my 22 I bought a Bosch random orbital sander from Home Depot. I think it was about 60 or 80 bucks. It has a large handle in front, in addition to the main handle. Made a big difference. I also hooked it up to my shop vac. You can buy dust bags for shop vacs made for drywall and fireplace dust. Worked great. I also got a $40 respirator from 3M, and a full face shield. You don't want to breathe that crap.
I coated my swing keel with Interprotect 2000. That's great stuff. when it cures it is solid as iron. I finished with Micron Extra with Biolux, as slime is our biggest problem on our pulluted lake.
Frank

Frank

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