Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
OK, I'm a bad boatowner. After 5 years of sailing bliss, I am finally getting around to replacing my spreader boots. I know this is supposed to be done with higher frequency, but meh.
When I took the old boots off, I was surprised to find that the seizing wire that holds the shrouds in the grooves of the caps on the ends of the spreaders had rusted away to almost nothing.
I would look up how to sieze the shrouds in one of my many sailing books, but alas, they are all packed since we are getting ready to move.
Does anyone know of a good diagram online showing how to sieze the shrouds, and what material to use - was carbon steel preferred for its softness? Is Stainless too brittle for this application? Is aluminium out of the question?
The boots should come off without need to take off the seizing wire. I have my shrouds in the garage currently, along with the boots. I plan to use rigging tape then to wrap the boot to the shroud and spreader.
Yeah Ape-x, the boots do, but the wire was badly corroded (rusted) and came off with the boots - no choice but for a redo. Now I need to locate some stainless wire. While I'm at the chandlery, I may as well get new cotterpins for the spreader to mast connection. Anyone got a size for them, they aren't detailed in Don's pic above.
CD sells the seizing wire, Stainless. It's easy to do. The trick is to end up so that the shroud won't jump out of the groove in the end cap and the seizing wire loops that go around the shroud are just loose enough that the shroud can slide through the loops.If the loops are to tight you will pull your spreaders down when you go to tighten up the turnbuckles. TIP, Put a toothpick or a small brad against the shroud then wrap the seizing wire around the shroud and the toothpick then just remove the toothpick. The loop will be loose enough then. If your old wire was rusted I would guess that someone replaced the factory stainless wire with some regular steel wire. When I replaced all my standing rigging last year, The original wire was perfectly good, No rust but I put new wire on because I had ordered it. I have plenty left over if you want to come and get it
Thanks for the offer Scott. I ran to te chandlery at lunch and got some wire (stainless) but they had 2 gauges of it. I got the heavier gauge, (0.032") but it was a WAG which size I needed. If yours is nearby and marked with a gauge size, it would be helpful to know what size it is.
Mine has a hole for a cotter pin through the end cap and holes in the end cap for seizing. That makes it easy to keep the seizing loose enough for the shroud to move but stay trapped to the spreader tip. I use monel instead of SS.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.