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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have looked through previous topics and didn't see any specific discussion on installing the power lift kit, recommendations, experiences with the product.
What do you want to know? drill a dozen holes, put in the gas struts and mounts. There may be a photo tutorial in teh Tech Tips section. The instructions from CD advise Dropping the mast to install the kit, but many have found that X-bracing with blocks after raising the top will allow you to get height to install the struts.
The instructions from CD are VERY good. I still have the manual kicking around someplace.
Yeah Nauti - similar to the impression I got after paying for the kit from CD.
Ray that would likely work, but the weight of the top will do the work for you if you don't have access to the clamps. Also, for alignment, it works well to get the top up and see how close to vertical the struts will be when mounted in a given location.
For the lift power of the struts, my thought is that ANY lift is better than no lift, and SWMBO really couldn't close the top with teh CD lifts in place. I may have some negative rake on them due to the install being off by a couple degrees though. In any case, they work well with the auto place struts.
I was just looking for guidance from those that have installed these. In reading the installation manual it seemed more intense than I would have guessed. I plan to install mine over the weekend so I can report back on how it went. Thanks to all for your comments.
Well 65 Roses, I was able to do it in about 3 beers. For anyone with a degree of proficiency with powertools, it should be a beer-and-a-half job.
Really not very difficult at all once you get things lined up. The reason the CD manual is so intense is because they break the job into such tiny pieces that it looks like a lot of work. The most important bit is getting your alignment figured out. After that its just make hole, insert screw.
The part that isn't included in the CD kit is about using thickened epoxy to seal the holes. If you opt to do this it becomes a 2-3 day job by default. Day 1 you drill and do a mock assembly, redrill oversized and fill with the epoxy. Let set overnight. Day 2 - drill it all out again to proper size, then assemble permanently. The pop-top is plywood cored, so this is likely worthwhile if you are able to do it.
Raising the top was effortless. Unclamp the dogs and a gentle touch would raise it. Bringing it down took a little more effort.
However....the starboard side strut broke. The plastic tips that are the socket, for the metal ball mounted to the bracket...the tips are cheap ass plastic and broke inside. Both ends of them. Junk, IMHO.
So, I only have one strut on one side. A little awkward to raise and lower the top but not unmanageable in any way. I should probably hit the auto store or RV store and get a replacement strut......just haven't done it yet.
How many lbs should the struts be? I'm seeing everything from the 20# ones above from ebay, to the 90# ones referenced on the Macgregor forums for their pop tops.
The admiral would very much like a gas shock kit installed, but I can't afford the $140. I can afford $40.
I don't know SMShield - Someone with a CD kit should take a look at theirs, I remember peeling off the CD stickers and there was a secret code underneath now knowing that the 15 on it was the length, I would hazard a guess that one of teh other numbers would have been the thrust. I recall there being an 85 which could be thrust, but my memory is foggy and it was a long time ago.
"Two custom high pressure gas springs counterbalance the weight of the pop top and sliding hatch. The initial lift required to raise the pop top is reduced from as much as 70 pounds to around 20. The kit also provides a redundant method of holding the pop top in its open position. If the stock latch slips down, the springs hold the hatch forward against the mast."
Sounds to me like around 25lbs per side??? (The replacement clip is the mast clip - you can buy it separately)
I just called CD tech support - they tell me it is 125 lbs per side. That sounds like a lot of lift. So we've whittled this down to:
125 lbs of lift 15" extended length ??? Compressed length
Also, if you face the same predicament that Joe and I did - the plastic clips breaking off the bottom of the strut, CD will sell just the push-in clip. To get it to me in Canada it was goingeto be around $10 - $15. I don't remember exactly.
OK, I gotta go home. Thats enough sleuthing for one day.
Here is a pair of 120 lbs struts for $24.95. Woo Hoo. Just enough lighter than CD's that you will be able to close the top, but everything else matches. I might buy a pair and upgrade from the autoparts ones I have now.
Joe - can you peel the red CD sticker off your strut and give us the three number code on the silver label underneath? It should confirm what the tech guy said on the phone, and that link above gives the decoder for the strut. I checked my Princess Auto strut and it has no info.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Prospector</i> <br />...I just called CD tech support - they tell me it is 125 lbs per side. That sounds like a lot of lift...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">The geometry of the system is such that the vertical "lifting" force will be less than the angled force of the strut--by quite a bit at the beginning when the strut is near horizontal.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by NautiC25</i> <br />Ok, now I'm confused about the lifting force...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">When you begin to lift the pop-top, the struts, with a total of 240# of pushing force, are mostly pushing horizontally--only a small component of that force is vertical to help you lift. That component increases as the top goes up, so it probably gets easier as the top goes up. If the strut forces only totaled the weight of the top, you would probably be pushing 90% of the weight of the top for most of the first 30 degrees or so.
The net of it is, CD seems to have found the right force (if not the right connecting hardware), and people who have installed their kit seem to be satisfied. <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I wonder what GSB means. "Good Sail boat" maybe??<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I think GSB is the brand name of the strut.
Well, I actually understood that part. It's the upper part that I don't understand. If there's now 240lbs of force in the upper end of the extension, then you'd need a tub of lard like myself to get it back down until it's horizontal enough to let go. It sounded like a complete trade off for either providing upward force without them, or a lot of downward force to put it back down with them.
So go back to vector forces in Grade 11 Physics. If you drew a vector force diagram of the opened top, you would have an arrow 240 units long pointing straight up. Add any horizontal force to the diagram and teh top will show motion at an angle. With the 240 lbs of vertical force you do need some oomph to get things started moving, but since the shocks can only exert force in one plane, any force in a direction other than up and down will not be overcome by the shocks.
Since you have 240 lbs of force in the vertical plane, it will take very little force in the horizontal plane to move the top. As teh force rotates, the full lift of teh struts doesn't ever really kick in. It should be easy to compress them. The trouble is that if your install is at all beyond 90° with teh top up, you do have to overcome that full force, in the same plane as the shocks, before the top begins to descend.
Thats where I think a slightly lighter strut might be better.
Edit to add: For those installing these kits, aim for the struts to describe 85° of an arc rather than a full 90°and you will not have the difficulty in lowering, but you better be darn sure your mast clip is working right since you will never have full upwards support either.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.