Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
The manual is in teh storage unit until I move and get the ouse unpacked so no one is getting a copy from me. Keep hunting.
With the right tools you could likely compress the strut to install, but CD offered a work-around so that anyone could do it by opening the top past 100%. The struts have a 15" length when opened but the top only uses 14" of the travel - or something - I haven't measured, and it varies depending on installation.
I want CD to stay in business as well, but this one is over the top. 3X retail for the parts if you buy a kit??? We're smarter than that around here I think.
Anyway, I have to send them some money for the beefed up side plates for teh motor mount. I'm getting nervous with it.
No problem.. sounds pretty straight forward with your explanation. I always like to get my head around the problem as much as possible as the boat is an hour away from my shop.
anyhoo.. anybody else feel free to show any pointers..
I've got furniture strap clamps that ratchet I use when gluing up so I will probably try them first. Also sounds pretty easy to remove the screws on the arms on one side and raise the top an inch with a small hydraulic car jack I have.
X Bracing or my adjustable auto jackstands for bracing. If they will fit.
Gee.. I'm guess the opening needs to be 14 to 15 inches...
Ferget the car jack etc. This is a sailboat for cryin out loud!
You can use the main halyard to a pair of strops and you can haul the top as high as you want. (See step 4 before beginning. The layout is pretty important).
1. Raise the pop-top. Clip it to the mast.
2. Run a strop under the pop-top and hook it onto the main Halyard. Tension the line (no lift, just tension).
3. Keep the 2 forward posts in place and release the aft 2. Lift the top so it is resting on the front posts and the mast clip with the back of it held up by the halyard/strops. Since it is wedged between teh mast and posts, it has noplace to go.
3. Place a longish 2X4 under the raised pop-top, and add hunks of lumber under the end you lifted so you don't drop it on your head (it hurts, trust me).
4. Get the new struts on. Their base will be directly under where they hang from the suspended top. Warning - they should be near the center of the pop-top, but far enough forward that when you close the top there is no interference with the pop-top support posts. To figure this out, measure the length of one of the posts, I think your "closed" shock will be about equal in length to the distance between the screws on the posts. You can mark this out before you start with electrical tape. Remember to keep things lined up abeam, or you will introduce twist to the top when it is opened. Marking out the screw holes is about 4 pages of the manual from CD, IIRC.
5. Take the load off the lumber with the halyard. Lower the top to re-install the 2 aft posts. Remove strops. Lower top. Done.
Last time I replaced the struts, the boat was in our driveway so I just lifted the top by hand and tried to put things together while balancing the top on my head. It wasn't pretty, and didn't work well. This time around I'll be using the halyard for the heavy lifting.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by redeye</i> <br /><< money for the beefed up side plates >>
I'd bet ya got a nice rope on that engine right now... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Actually its in the basement. No worries about it falling from the ground. Unless a chasm opens up under us, and in that case I have bigger worries than the OB.
So i put together the full kit including stainless steel mounting brackets, and teh regular 120 lb struts from the maxum hardware site I listed above.
Minimum orders on mounting hardware is 4 pieces, so you end up with twice the hardware you need, and no screws (you would need a dozen stainless screws, washers, etc.)
Long story short is the full deal works out to $47.91 before shipping. Of that, $11.48 is spare parts so if someone else in your area is looking to install a top, double up the order to save on shipping and reduce the spare parts count. Your cost before shipping and screws is... $36.43 (as long as you have a friend who is doing the same project). Lets add on $13.00 for the missing hardware, and you have the full deal for $50 plus shipping.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by pastmember</i> <br />CD kit. Putting together a kit... priceless.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">...and I'll add... Getting detailed instructions on how to position and install the struts and hardware is part of what is "priceless." Part of what you're paying CD for is their experience and information on how to make it work specifically on a C-25. Your hardware store, WM, or web supplier of struts has no clue.
I got the kit and after reading the manual wimped out and decided to have the boatyard install it. They did a good job at a reasonable price. One thing in the manual that I think you should pay attention to is installing two additional latch dogs on the pop top. The OE ones are sort of marginal and the possibility is there that under the right circumstances of waves and/or weather the pop top could come up on its own. I can envision this not being a lot of fun.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Stinkpotter</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by pastmember</i> <br />CD kit. Putting together a kit... priceless.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">...and I'll add... Getting detailed instructions on how to position and install the struts and hardware is part of what is "priceless." Part of what you're paying CD for is their experience and information on how to make it work specifically on a C-25. Your hardware store, WM, or web supplier of struts has no clue. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Well, I'd rather pay $22 here for the information, than $100 there for theirs.
Looks like my installation is going to be delayed. It is suppose to be in the 90's this weekend at the boat, so won't be doing any work on the boat. I will hopefully get it installed in the next couple weeks and report how it went. Again thanks for all the interests by all.
Down here, it's in the 90's over half the year. We just wake up before the sun's up, and get all the hard work done before noon. Sip on Margaritas and Shiner Bock the rest of the day. ;)
One last comment. I went and measured teh install on the boat. Our strut is placed such that teh front ball is 14.5" back of teh front post. The back ball is 11" back from teh front mount (collapsed length of strut). When extended the strut is 14.5" long.
That should give you all the layout points you need for this thing.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by NautiC25</i> <br />Down here, it's in the 90's over half the year. We just wake up before the sun's up, and get all the hard work done before noon. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Yep....during the worst of the summer heat, typically July and August, I stay in the house between Noon and 7:00 PM or so. My activity is at night or the early/mid morning.
Won't be installing my lift package until the fall. I don't want to unstep the mast just top put this on, but thanks for all the notes and the conversation triggered. This forum is interesting and fun to read through.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Prospector</i> <br />I don't know SMShield - Someone with a CD kit should take a look at theirs, I remember peeling off the CD stickers and there was a secret code underneath now knowing that the 15 on it was the length, I would hazard a guess that one of teh other numbers would have been the thrust. I recall there being an 85 which could be thrust, but my memory is foggy and it was a long time ago.
My way of seeing this is that 2 X 20 lbs = 40 lbs of lift which is better than the 0 lbs of lift you get with nothing. With too much lift it is difficult to close the top.
Does anyone know what the final decision was for the strut force? Little Boat Iris Blog (who actually did the install used 2 20lb struts, whereas others used 2 120lbs. I don't think they can both be correct!!!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.