Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
That was really well done! I loved the credits, especially "Dad as gravity". I've got a Mac these days, I'll have to look into iMovie, I've never played with it.
FWIW, I wouldn't use your jack stand wheel as your launch wheel, you're just going to tear it up. I forgot once and bent my old one a little. Admittedly it was still in the up position, you did the right thing to lower yours.
We use a [url="http://www.lowcostboatingstore.com/TIE-DOWN-ENGINEERING-86079-HUBSPARE-TIRE-CARRIER_p_20085.html"]Tie-down Engineering hub[/url] for our fifth wheel. I can lower the trailer down onto to it and it'll happily roll down the ramp. It'd be nice if it could sit a bit lower than it does, because I had to change my jack stand's attachment point to be able to lower it onto the tire.
I agree - it's less than stellar to use the jack wheel to launch. I looked for a local source for a spare hub mount locally, like the one in your link, but the only one I found was too spendy and shipping charges to Canada were very high. I can get a new jack for 50 bucks and a new wheel for $5 so I figured I'd take the chance on catastrophic failure of the jack wheel. The ramp at the park is fairly smooth and the wheel survived well, a little mangled but works fine.
I'm going to keep an eye out for a better "5th wheel" solution but for now - the job is done.
If you want I can send you pictures of the device the PO or PPO created for lowering a tire onto the ground. It was basically just a slide that was held in place by a hitch pin. There were two holes in the slide tube, one for "up" and one for "down". It slid on a 3x3 steel tube bolted between the tongue tube and the upright tube for the mast raising apparatus at roughly 20-30 degrees. I removed it and gave the steel to the neighborhood kid who collects scrap, so I only have pictures and memories of it. It was a very low tech solution, but it worked. You had to keep the 3x3 tube greased up, or it became a bear to slide it up and down. Particularly up.
If you want to continue talking about this, we should probably stop hijacking this thread and start a new one.
The trailer frame's "V" is too close to the actuator on my trailer to use a tire carrier with hub so I just added a second tongue jack and mounted it on one side on the "V" as close to the ftont as I could get it, by the winch stand. The other jack is inside the frame closer to the centerline. Works fine!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Prospector</i> <br />Woo Hoo Dave - I found it (in Canada even - we have a Bass pro nearby) for cheap!
Neat video. I have one question. How do you insure that the trailer will not take a turn going down the ramp when using a swivel wheel? Has it ever been a problem?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by hewebb</i> <br />How do you insure that the trailer will not take a turn going down the ramp when using a swivel wheel? Has it ever been a problem? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
The truck keeps tension on the strap so the boat goes down the ramp as the truck backs up so there is no way it can pivot - it just goes straight back nice and slow.
I'd concur, the trickiest part seems to be getting the trailer lined up so that when it roll down the ramp it doesn't keep going in a line you don't want, like into the dock, or far enough away that your line handlers can't pull the boat off the trailer without impacting the keel on the supports (that you can't see if the water's murky). I try for a slight (and I mean slight) angle toward the dock, that way you insure that the line handlers can get a fair pull on the stern of the boat and it'll come off the trailer free of obstructions.
I try to start far enough away from the dock so that I can easily open the door on my truck with a couple of feet of clearance, then I can back down at a tiny angle away from the dock (which encourages the trailer to edge closer to the dock. By the time the trailer's submerged, the tail end of it should be roughly 4' or so from the edge of the dock, easy pickings to get the boat off the trailer and tied up.
Ideally you'd have someone on the boat who was confident enough to handle it by themselves so you wouldn't have to worry about dockside placement so much, you simply back down, once the boat floats, the helmsman backs it off the trailer and goes to orbit while you recover the trailer, or pulls into the dock on their own. I don't have that.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.