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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hi - I launched my new/old boat last week (bought her back after a couple years with a C34). We rigged her temporarily and then she sat out a strong ocean storm the past couple days on her mooring. I haven't rigged this boat for several years and have forgot a couple things, can you help?
She has a small 110 jib on a roller furler.
1) Height of the boom on the mast? PO has moved it around. What is the correct height from the deck, with original main? 2) I presume with a smaller head sail, the halyard block/track should be more forward? Also, what is the routing of the jib halyards? over/under which lifeline segment and/or outside/inside which lifeline stanchion? 3) The owners manual says to rig the upper shrouds so a 50 lb push at shoulder height deflects the upper shroud 1M"....whats 1M" mean? A meter? That seems an a lot. Anybody? Thanks
I think the height of the boom will be dependant on <i>your</i> mainsail. I just raised the sail to the top of the mast, then put some pressure on the boom, and positioned it there.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">2) I presume with a smaller head sail, the halyard block/track should be more forward? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> If you mean the sheet blocks, then yes they would be more forward than say a 135. Sheets run outside lifelines, to car then to winch.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">3) The owners manual says to rig the upper shrouds so a 50 lb push at shoulder height deflects the upper shroud 1M"....whats 1M" mean? A meter? That seems an a lot. Anybody? Thanks<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> This won't help you much, but I purchased one of these, followed their instructions, to tension the shrouds.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by hinmo</i> <br />1) Height of the boom on the mast? PO has moved it around. What is the correct height from the deck, with original main?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> You don't say whether your boat has a tall rig, or standard rig, and the height is different, but, if your mainsail is the correct size for the boat, it shouldn't matter.
The luff of the mainsail has a fixed length. When you raise the mainsail, it should go all the way to the top of the mast. If it is raised all the way, then the boom will hang at the correct height, as designed. Before you raise it, however, you should untie the mainsail's downhaul, mainsheet, and boom vang, so the boom will be free to float to it's correct height. After the sail has been fully raised, the downhaul should be pulled taut and tied, and the mainsheet and vang can be adjusted appropriately.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">2) I presume with a smaller head sail, the halyard block/track should be more forward? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Correct. You're referring to the genoa car, which is on the genoa track. The block should be situated so that, when the boat is sailing closehauled, the jibsheet forms approximately a right angle with the leading edge (the "luff") of the jib.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Also, what is the routing of the jib halyards? over/under which lifeline segment and/or outside/inside which lifeline stanchion?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I think you're referring to the jibsheets. The halyard is the line that raises the sail. The sheets are the lines that are led to the cockpit winches, and are used to trim the jib. I sold my C25 several years ago, and some of the rigging details are starting to fade, but I believe the sheets are led outside all the shrouds, but inside the lifeline stanchions directly to the genoa car. They shouldn't be led <u>through</u> the lifelines. If my memory on that point isn't exactly correct, I trust someone will correct it. When the boat is sailing off the wind, such as on a beam reach or a broad reach, the sheet will drape over the top of the lifeline. When the boat is sailing closehauled, and the jib is trimmed correctly, the jib and the jibsheet will both be completely inside the lifeline. If you lead the jibsheet <u>under</u> the lifeline, you won't be able to trim the sail correctly when you want to sail closehauled.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">3) The owners manual says to rig the upper shrouds so a 50 lb push at shoulder height deflects the upper shroud 1M"....whats 1M" mean? A meter? That seems an a lot. Anybody? Thanks <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I believe the M is a typo. If you ignore it, then it says the upper shroud should deflect 1", which sounds about right. My advice is, if in doubt, don't over-tighten them. When the boat is sailing closehauled in about 10-12 kts of wind, the leeward upper shroud should just relax, without waving loosely. In short, you want them snug, but not bar-tight.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Davy J</i> <br />I think the height of the boom will be dependant on <i>your</i> mainsail. I just raised the sail to the top of the mast, then put some pressure on the boom, and positioned it there.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">2) I presume with a smaller head sail, the halyard block/track should be more forward? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> If you mean the sheet blocks, then yes they would be more forward than say a 135. Sheets run outside lifelines, to car then to winch.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">3) The owners manual says to rig the upper shrouds so a 50 lb push at shoulder height deflects the upper shroud 1M"....whats 1M" mean? A meter? That seems an a lot. Anybody? Thanks<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> This won't help you much, but I purchased one of these, followed their instructions, to tension the shrouds.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by hinmo</i> <br /> Also, what is the routing of the jib halyards? over/under which lifeline segment and/or outside/inside which lifeline stanchion? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I run my jib sheet outside everything. When I have the jib flaked and rolled out on the deck, hanked on and ready to raise....the jib sheets are run at a right angle to the clew....outside the shrouds, and over the lifeline so the sheet runs outside the boat, along side it and into the genny car. A small knot on the end of the sheet, then the sheet is tidied up. If I anticipate a starboard tack when I raise the jib, then the port sheet is wrapped around the winch, the starboard sheet is coiled but ready to run free.
When the sail is raised and flying, I want a clear path from the clew to the genny car, a nice straight line. If I had run the sheet inside the lifelines, or the shrouds, then the sheet would run from the clew to the lifeline or stanchion, then to the genny car. NOT what you want to happen.
With my old 150 genoa, the track cars were back far enough that it allowed the jib sheet to be run outside the first stanchion foreward of the winch. With my 135, the track cars are about three feet farther forward and running the sheets inboard of the stanchion gives me a fair lead.
The M is a character recognition bug, it should be 1 inch (1"). Sadly nothing on these boats is metric. However I borrowed a tension gauge to properly tune my rig. It was a helpful tool, and if I had a trailered boat I think I'd get my own tension gauge.
On both my 110 and 135 genoas the sheets run outside the shrouds and the stanchion near the shrouds, then come under the lifelines into the genoa traveler. Just try it, if you get it wrong it'll be obvious. You want to do that with two people or more on the boat and in light winds of course, having the sheet putting high tension on your lifelines or shrouds isn't good.
I set my downhaul a little bit differently than everyone else. I raise the main and note how far above the downhaul cleat the boom is raised. Then I drop the main a little bit, and tie the downhaul to pull the genoa down by a couple of inches from where the boom sat with the main fully up. Then I raise it again. I think that this lets me get a higher tension in the luff of the sail than just pulling down and tying off the downhaul by hand. I don't have to use that tension (I can hoist the sail not quite to the top), but it gives me the ability to use it if I need it. My old sail was really blown out, so this was helpful for me. Anyway, the boom is not fixed on these boats (at least as they come stock), it is held in place by the balance of tension between the mainsail and downhaul. On my boat the downhaul cleat is only about 2" under the boom's maximum position, so normally I have the boom tied off tightly to the downhaul.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by awetmore</i> <br />The M is a character recognition bug, it should be 1 inch (1").<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Sadly, I was wondering the same thing for a few weeks now, but was too embarrassed to show my ignorance once again... ...a typo... ...sigh...
Assuming you have a std rig, raise the main fully, then pull down slightly with the downhaul and cleat it. With a tall rig, do the same if you have a TR main. The boom should rest just below the gate. The tall rig mast is 2' taller than a std rig mast, so if you have a std rif main with a TR mast, raise the sail until the boom rests just below the gate (or just above the gate if you have a bimini that needs more height).
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.