Association Forum - Cast Iron Swing Keel Re-do

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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Cast Iron Swing Keel Re-do

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BCG-Woodbury
Mainsheet Editor

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USA
396 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/09/2012 : 17:12:40

I took delivery of my 1984 C25 SR/SK last Saturday. It's been raining ever since so little progress has been made otherthan showing it off to co-workers, friends, and family. Today I tackled the keel which was really rusty with some barnacles. I tool a pneumatic needle scaler to it with excellent results. Due to the amount of rust, I removed everything. The whole thing is down to the bare cast iron. I've purchased a paint that is a rust converter. My question is this: How smooth does the keel really need to be? Will I need to use some kind of a filler after the converter/primer? Some areas are pretty pitted. It looks like there might have been some factory filler used in areas that have sunk in the casting. Input please.

Thanks,

Brian & JoAnne Gleissner
Knot So Fast
1984 Catalina 25, SR/SK
Traditional Interior
Lake Candlewood, CT

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 06/09/2012 : 17:37:39

I had my keel filled, smoothed and barrier coated once, but it isn't critical. It will, no doubt, cost you a little speed, but it won't be significant unless you're a racer. I used a rust converting paint on my previous boat's keel with excellent results.

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BCG-Woodbury
Mainsheet Editor

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396 Posts

Response Posted - 06/09/2012 : 17:56:51

Dave B -

Do you know what they typically use to fill the pits and voids? Also, the rust converter that I'm using likes it rusty, the rustier the better. Do you think I should apply it, then fill? I'll be doing 2-3 coats of Interlux ACT either way.

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 06/10/2012 : 08:21:41

Fill with epoxy thickened with glass beads or silicates, colloid thickeners like automotive body fillers will pull in moisture and fail. Be sure to remove all loose rust, it will reduce the bond strength, but diffuse surface rust will bind with the converter and adhere. If you are using just a converter, probably phosphoric acid, and not a paint, then apply the converter before filling.

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BCG-Woodbury
Mainsheet Editor

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USA
396 Posts

Response Posted - 06/14/2012 : 18:37:45

Update -

Well, after 3 days of rain I finally got 2 coats of Rust converter on the Swing Keel. Now on to the bottom paint. I picked up two sailboat stands at Defender on Sunday so I'll be painting the stern first by raising her up off the rollers and then paint the bow half. I think it will go smoothly but just will take time. Being on a lake, I should only need to re-do the bottom every 3 years or so.

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Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9082 Posts

Response Posted - 06/14/2012 : 19:39:37

Good work! The converter should do a good job of stopping rust before it happens--the stuff I used (Rustoleum Rust Reformer) turned any ferrous metal black. It should also act as a barrier between the iron and the copper in your bottom paint, preventing galvanic corrosion.

Racers want the smoothest, slickest, most efficient shape, which might gain them a tenth of a knot--meaningful on the racecourse. Daysailers and cruisers would rather sail than worry about fairing their keels in late June.

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BCG-Woodbury
Mainsheet Editor

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USA
396 Posts

Response Posted - 06/18/2012 : 19:12:45

OK, Rust converter is done (2 coats). Now I'm on to Ablative Bottom Paint. I'm brushing all the tight areas and rollering the rest. I'm using Interlux ACT because that is what the PO used. I'm thinning with 433 thinner for brushing or rollering. A little messy but it is coming out fine. Any tips? I'm using the 4" Foam Rollers, should I be thinking about the 1" diameter mini rollers? I will definitely need to use a mixer attachment for my cordless once I start on the hull. Any and all tips would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9082 Posts

Response Posted - 06/18/2012 : 19:58:20

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by BCG-Woodbury
 I'm using the 4" Foam Rollers...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Why so small??<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I will definitely need to use a mixer attachment for my cordless once I start on the hull.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">The drill-mixer is great for paint that's been sitting for months--I use it once every year (on a plug-in drill--it can take a while!) Once you have a can mixed, a wood stirrer should take care of you from one week to the next to keep the copper in suspension.

Have you heard about doing a "signal coat" in one color, followed by a couple of coats of your preferred contrasting color, so that when the signal coat shows, you know you need to add some paint? Multi-season ablative paint typically doesn't need added coats every year, except maybe some touch-ups in high-wear areas like leading edges of the rudder and keel.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 06/18/2012 20:04:07

BCG-Woodbury
Mainsheet Editor

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USA
396 Posts

Response Posted - 06/18/2012 : 20:26:27

Hi Dave - The 4" roller is easier to get around the rollers. I'm doing the work while it is on the trailer. I picked up 2 sailboat stands from Defender to do the stern hlf first, then the bow half. I'm doing the keel first (almost done). I used the Gray-White for my "signal coat" and am putting 2 light coats of Blue over that. Maybe I thinned the batch a little too much today so it was messy to work with. The coverage is good but not too thick (that is what I am looking for). I'll do the last Blue coat on the keel tomorrow and then tackle the hull when I get back from vacation. The stands will come in handy when I have to re-do the blue in a few years. Thanks for the input.

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.